TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)

[S4Cruiser]

View attachment 1696272 Grease Question- once I get to reassembly, is this grease good to pack my knuckles with. It was the only moly grease they had at Napa, I bought two tubes. Figured I could use a grease gun to fill the knuckle through the fill plug on the top of the knuckle.

That should work fine for the knuckles/birfs. I typically use the valvoline stuff which is likely less expensive. https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Moly-Fortified-Multi-Purpose-Grease-VV632/dp/B000CQ6L64?th=1&psc=1

You’ll also be better off packing by hand around the birf/inside the knuckle which is quicker. I’ve used a grease gun which works to but never via that small hole.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Agreed, best to fill knuckles by hand. Top fill hole is for topping off only.

 

[40LandCruising]

Sounds like a plan, and have y’all ever used Valvoline gear oil? That’s what I bought for my front differential and wasn’t sure if it was any good.

 

[jfz80]

Gear oil will be fine. An quality 90w

Def pack by hand. You may want a third tube of moly and grab some high speed grease for the wheel bearings to help keep the next one together. That thing is toast!

 

[40LandCruising]

Just bought a tub of Mobil 1 synthetic grease for the wheel bearings, I had a tube of Napa chassis and bearing grease but everyone has suggested the Mobil so I figured it was he right choice. Do I use it to pack the trunion bearings as well?

 

[fourtrax]

yeap.

You don't need the SST to remove the bearing races. Most people just use a brass drift to remove the races.

 

[40LandCruising]

yeap.

You don't need the SST to remove the bearing races. Most people just use a brass drift to remove the races.

I used a socket extension, that’s what was on the 80 series FAQ and it worked well.

 

[40LandCruising]

Update on progress today: so far I have almost completely disassembled the knuckle, everything is out except the axle seal. Wiped the axle down, haven’t thoroughly cleaned yet, haven’t even touched the knuckle.

It appears this axle seal was functioning properly, the grease was nasty but not soupy.

My spindle is shot, the threads are toast. And my birf has scoring on the shaft part(should I replace?), and my hub could be bad because of the wheel bearing that exploded, I have no clue, haven’t investigated yet.

Luckily Garrett Johnston is hooking me up with everything I need. I was not gonna pay $400 for a spindle from toyota.

Also, is the scoring in the axle bad?

 

[roadstr6]

I'm trying to figure out how the shaft could have gotten so scraped up way inside the tube like that. Maybe a busted birf let one of the big ball bearings fall into the housing? I'm on the fence about running that shaft. I wouldn't run it on my truck unless I had to. It has gotten hot. The scored areas are now weak points on the shaft. Definitely check the birf for damage before you decide and make sure whatever was contacting that shaft is no longer hanging around in the tube. If you can get the shafts/birfs from Garrett, get them and use them instead. They should be fine and are correct for your year (from a '94). They worked fine on my truck. Never pulled and inspected them though.

You may want to pull the third member and look it over while you have the shafts out. There could be more problems hiding in there. At least pull the drain plug and look closely at what comes out.

 

[jfz80]

I try to stay out of the whining thread but this woulda qualified.....

Took 4 sets of aftermarket bleeders to seal up correctly in the 80 caliper. Now still drawing air because they dont have a thread sealant. M10x1.0x35mm but the difference ended up being how far the bleed hole was spaces down from the bottom threads. The pointed tip was not the factor as mud suggests as actually it was the bleeder being replaced. For some reason the right rear speed bleeder valve always craps out???

So basically. Order OEM. I would have but was being impatient and opened it up and made a mess so wanted to wrap up last night.

 

[fourtrax]

A socket extension will work but it's tool steel almost the same hardness as the race. it can damage your race if it deflects across the race surface. It would work in a pinch. But, a brass drift will not damage the surfaces.

+1 for pulling the 3rd member and inspecting it and the housing.

 

[fourtrax]

Isn't there a splash guard or something at the Inside Edge of the housing/tube where the third member goes? in I wonder if somebody Jammed the axle shaft in at an angle (unsupported) and bent that down and it's rubbing against the axle shaft.

 

[jfz80]

Isnt all that scoring on the birfield?
From debris (wheel bearing?) inside the spindle?

Follow what you are both saying but seems the shaft may be fine and just needs a new birf (and spindle, etc). Anderson lets see the axle shaft.

Not saying looking a further isnt warranted. Might as well peak while youre in there. RTV for the third gasket instead of oem paper seems to work better

 

[S4Cruiser]

Isnt all that scoring on the birfield?
From debris (wheel bearing?) inside the spindle?

Follow what you are both saying but seems the shaft may be fine and just needs a new birf (and spindle, etc). Anderson lets see the axle shaft.

Not saying looking a further isnt warranted. Might as well peak while youre in there. RTV for the third gasket instead of oem paper seems to work better

Agreed what I see is scoring in the burfield from the wheel bearing that took a s***. Replace birf.

I’m the axle seal functioning...have you confirmed there is actually gear oil in the diff to leak out? I asked based on the rest of the maintenance (or lack there of) related issues so far!

Nice job diving head first! You’re almost half way through!!

 

[fourtrax]

Your right, I I was thinking the splined
End is what mated to the third member. I was bass ackwards, should have looked closer.

 

[40LandCruising]

Yes, the scoring is on the Birf, nothing inside the axle housing. I think it is just from where the wheel bearing went and the bearing was rubbing on the Birf. I am getting the birf from Garrett as well as a spindle because after cleaning mine up it is really bad.

I was going to wait and do one side completely and then do the other side. But I wanted to make sure I didn’t need any other parts from Garrett before I meet up with him so I went ahead and tore the other side down this morning. I’ve bagged and tagged everything and the two sides are in separate bins. Between the experience on the PS and everything be coated in oil, the drivers side came apart in no time. The drivers side everything actually looks great except for the leaky seal, which was REALLY BAD. There was no grease left in my knuckle, it was 100% the consistency of gear oil if not thinner.

 

[40LandCruising]

A socket extension will work but it's tool steel almost the same hardness as the race. it can damage your race if it deflects across the race surface. It would work in a pinch. But, a brass drift will not damage the surfaces.

+1 for pulling the 3rd member and inspecting it and the housing.

I wasn’t worried about damaging the races because I have new ones but I see what you are saying. I need to get a brass drift for times like that.

 

[roadstr6]

Your right, I I was thinking the splined
End is what mated to the third member. I was bass ackwards, should have looked closer.

#metoo

Sorry for the derailment! I'd still run Garrett's whole deal on the PS. Shaft, birf, everything. Clean, re-pack and go.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Agreed what I see is scoring in the burfield from the wheel bearing that took a s***. Replace birf.

Agreed, with the exception that the bore of the spindle needs to be inspected carefully. This has happened to me before (60ff rear axle), where a bearing seized and heated up the spindle enough that it deformed under the weight of the truck, causing the inner bore of the spindle to intersect the axle shaft.


For the bearing races, don't waste a brass drift. Use a steel punch to both remove the old ones and install the new ones. The bearing races are exceptionally hard (~60 HRC) so there is no chance a steel punch will so much as scratch a race.

 

[40LandCruising]

#metoo

Sorry for the derailment! I'd still run Garrett's whole deal on the PS. Shaft, birf, everything. Clean, re-pack and go.

That’s the plan! Luckily my shaft is good still so I’ll have a good spare.