TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (24 Viewers)

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I've given up for now trying to find an affordable tire carrier/bumper. I went back to my original plan. Goal was to have a drawer, single sleeping platform, still access the panel in the back on the passenger side, and be able to fit two Plano totes on top. Used 3/4" maple veneer plywood for tyhe top and bottom. 1x8 pine boards doubled up for the sides. I got the sleeping platform and box for the drawer built. Drawer, carpet, etc in the coming weeks
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Started rear brakes and figured I'd take a look at the rear axle since it's a 2 minute removal. Looks good so I put it back and tighten gently with a 3/8" socket and the last one does this.
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So I'm off to a good start on the rear brakes!

Well, the good news is that's an easy fix.

BTW .... FSM specs for rear axle studs are to only tighten to 25 ft lb. :D
 
On the subject of alarms, I would like to yank out the one in our '94 80. One fob is not working and the other has broken so will not stay on keychain. If you honk the horn for any reason then the system chirps at you when you shut off the engine and you cannot restart unless you have a fob or you cycle/reset the toggle switch "hidden" in the kick panel. Any reason to not have it taken out?
 
So yeah let's talk offline on what the easiest way to fix is. I had envisioned cutting a groove in it and turning it out with a screwdriver.

At any rate I had to stop and pick up these in Mebene.
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And then run off to fancy dinner.

So I did get to drive Biscuit around the block and she stops! Needs to bleed once more since we likely left some air in the system replacing the front and only bleeding the front. Rear pads and rotors actually weren't that bad so I'll tackle them when I do the axle rebuild at a later date.
 
So yeah let's talk offline on what the easiest way to fix is. I had envisioned cutting a groove in it and turning it out with a screwdriver.

At any rate I had to stop and pick up these in Mebene.
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And then run off to fancy dinner.

So I did get to drive Biscuit around the block and she stops! Needs to bleed once more since we likely left some air in the system replacing the front and only bleeding the front. Rear pads and rotors actually weren't that bad so I'll tackle them when I do the axle rebuild at a later date.

Nice cabinets!!!!
 
If you read my rant a page back or so you will see that I found a solution. LS1 front drive assembly on an LS3. Basically it reverses the alternator and PS pump locations. Only thing I may have to do is change the terminal end on the Alt plug in.

I am still looking for a way to get a truck style, threaded water pump pulley on there so I can use a mechanical fan. Truck style water pump bolts up but upper hose outlet hits the throttle body.

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busy weekend. Was having an overheating issue with the Yukon. Found a sticking thermostat, replaced, refilled and still an issue. These things were a bear to burp but eventually found the water pump was leaking yet again. replaced, refilled and still fighting. Finally determined the radiator wasn't flowing. Replaced and tossed a new surge tank cap for good measure and she's back on the road. Well at least it's got a completely new cooling system now.

Also put a little time on the 80. Had to replace the headlight pigtail as it just completely fell apart. Rerouted some CB cable and a little bit on the Exhaust. Just trying to patch it till I can make it to the exhaust shop. hoping to have a complete new exhaust by the time we have our next ride.
 
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Woohoo can finally contribute to the wrenching thread. Nothing major but

Finally found time away from work to install my OME lift. Got my RTT mounted up to the LX and installed a new radio with speakers and an alarm.

With the radio I can now listen to music from my phone which is very nice. I also installed a back up camera. For the times that the wife drives it.

Then did boring maintenance like flush the power steering fluid and break fluid.

Oh and I finally rebuilt and replaced the broken front drive shaft.
 
It is the wrecked one.
The rear axle took all the impact. So they replaced it along the rear driver rim.
 
A view of an LS3 you don't often see. LS3 and hot rod pan. HR pan provides clearance required for front axle.

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A view of an LS3 you don't often see. LS3 and hot rod pan. HR pan provides clearance required for front axle.

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So do you also relocate the sump/pickup?
 
Yes, all one part number, comes with windage tray, pick up and dip stick/tube

GM performance is pretty efficient with that sort of thing. All hardware for the front accessory drives comes separated, blister packed and has part numbers on each set of bolts.
 
Pretty sure I posted before about how the previous owner of my FJC was not Nikola Tesla. Well, he wasn't much of a wrench either. The switches that he did such a terrible job wiring were also installed crooked. I've been brainstorming on ideas that will fill the void left by the switches while covering up the crooked holes. Someone turned me on to the Ultragauge and it turned out that little bugger fit perfectly. Unfortunately I had another hole to fill.

Luckily, discount tire direct neglected to install TPMS sensors in my new wheels and tires and that got me researching TPMS systems. I found a monitoring system on amazon that came with a display that was just a smidge smaller than the Ultragauge. Bingo, I can make that work.

I pulled the switches but the mounts were glued in place. So I honed out the middles with my dremel and mounted everything with a plastic panel I fabbed up as a backer plate. I wish I could have hidden the wiring better but these goober manufacturers insist on their connections residing along the side vs the back. Overall I'm happy with the results. I get real time OBD2 data and tire pressures and temps in an easily readable display. Most of all the switches are gone and the crooked mount is mostly covered up.

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Question....if I have OEM shocks (Tokiko or whatever).....would they be ok if I added a front ARB type bumper (and possibly a winch) and the rear type swingout (probably go with the NXTLacy bumper)? Or would I definitely need to add better suspension???
 
With bumpers alone, They will take a hit in the lift and comfort department but In MY eyes tolerable until upgrade. So would not NEED a new suspension but may greatly appreciate/benefit from a fresh coil/shock setup. Yeah i know... vague at best ;) At worst it moves it up the list of pending mods.

Edit: John brings up a good point below about the addition of the winch... it may be the one that pushes you over the comfort edge.
 
Question....if I have OEM shocks (Tokiko or whatever).....would they be ok if I added a front ARB type bumper (and possibly a winch) and the rear type swingout (probably go with the NXTLacy bumper)? Or would I definitely need to add better suspension???
Springs is the question, not shocks. You'll likely want a stiffer front spring set if you add a bumper AND a winch. The thing to think of is how old is your truck, do you have/want a lift, how much weight will you carry and where will it be. OME makes a 'stock height' spring set that might gain you back an inch or so over a 20+yr old set. Lots to research and discover here.
 
Question....if I have OEM shocks (Tokiko or whatever).....would they be ok if I added a front ARB type bumper (and possibly a winch) and the rear type swingout (probably go with the NXTLacy bumper)? Or would I definitely need to add better suspension???

Will be just fine, provided your use of the term OEM isn't also implying those shocks are original to the rig, in which case bumper or not, it's time for new shocks.
 
Yeah, that is what I thought. The shocks are new....I just haven't put them on yet. Front bumper is a ways off probably...I would love to do the rear first to get the spare out from underneath. I might have to start looking at shock/coil packages. Anyone? OME?
 

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