TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (35 Viewers)

[sleepycruiser]

I haven't seen it behind the dash. I will get in the DSs kick panel...I am going to do the auto window up mod and window without keys mod today anyway so maybe I can track it down.

 

[Rice]

If I was an alarm system....where would I be? I have a Code Alarm system in my LC and I am unsure of where the valet button is to reprogram the FOBs. Is there a 'normal' place for them to be?

They work when I am super close to the LC but not further than 5 feet sometimes. I found some videos on YouTube that say to solder a wire to the antenna portion of the FOB...I will do that today and see if it works.

I suggest not doing the solder job. Because the FOB's transmit at a specific frequency the existing antenna is tuned to resonate at that frequency. Changing the length of the antenna changes its resonant frequency. Above anything else what I would suggest is, once you find the receiver, moving it to a location that is not immediately shielded by metal on all sides (Faraday cage) and is a little more in the open, electrically speaking.

 

[jfz80]

@sleepycruiser check the lil door by your left knee too. Where fuses and obd-2 port is. People like to shove fuse splitter it power taps in there too

Look into 'gray wire mod' in 80 tech. I know its not oem in your case but you may be able to mimic to increase range.


Yeah NAPA was not showing their know how that day

Turns out James was all the way down to squeal/wear indicator #2 ...... the backing plate

I wish we hd a pic of the culprit caliper. 3 out of 4 pistons were siezed on front driver side. To point it took pry bars and a hammer to get caliper off. Even then, could not get them to move with 6" C clamp or my monster channel locks. That thing was toast. Two inside pistons were fully extended likely past the wear zone with the extra travel allowed by no pad. Bottom outboard piston had been functiong but not top one so pad was newish at top and gone on the bottom half.

 

[Rice]

@sleepycruiser check the lil door by your left knee too. Where fuses and obd-2 port is. People like to shove fuse splitter it power taps in there too

Look into 'gray wire mod' in 80 tech. I onow its not oem in your case but you may be able to mimic to increase range.


Yeah NAPA was not showing their know how that day

Turns out James was all the way down to squeal/wear indicator #2 ...... the backing plate

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I wish we hd a pic of the culprit caliper. 3 out of 4 pistons were siezed on front driver side. To point it took pry bars and a hammer to get caliper off. Even then, could not get them to move with 6" C clamp or my monster channel locks. That thing was toast. Two inside pistons were fully extended likely past the wear zone with the extra travel allowed by no pad. Bottom outboard piston had been functiong but not top one so pad was newish at top and gone on the bottom half.

Dayum! That's all I got ..... just Dayum.

James, test drive yet?


There does seem to be a theme with James and metal parts that should not be rubbing:

 

[sleepycruiser]

@jfz80 Gray wire mod looks super simple. I wonder if that will work with the setup I have. One way to find out! Thanks!!

 

[NCFJ]

@sleepycruiser Be careful what you do with alarm systems. Over the years, a good percentage of electrical gremlins I have encountered have had roots in after market alarm systems. Most are hacked (installed) in a hurry with little or no concern to how they may effect the system they are being attached to.

I removed what remained of at least two systems out of the last truck I built. Had tentacles all the way out to all 4 doors with wires in the window circuits cut, splice and only tapped. Most cause more harm than good.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Thanks Stan. I will be careful and if it doesn't work I will change it back to how it is now. Good to meet you and Heather yesterday.

 

[NCFJ]

Good to meet you as well, we had a good time. Going to Hendersonville for us is a homecoming. Heather and I had our first place together there.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Fixed. I ended up just bending the fob battery tabs so that they were in constant contact with the battery. Works from 50+ feet now. No messing with anything in the LC.

 

[lt1fire]

Front wheel bearings, new ABS sensor on one side and new wheel pad sensor, new rotors and new pads.
Took a little longer than I wanted to because it was never over 25 degrees in the garage and I normaly do light auto work in socks shorts and a t-shirt

 

[JohnVee]

You can't make a video like that and NOT have a "cops chase robbers then robbers chase cops"-type scene. Or a good head scratcher/bright idea moment. But I admire your motivation to do something while somebody worked on your truck. Reminded me of Steamboat Itchy.

 

[JohnVee]

All I did so far this weekend was wire in the Battery Tender leads to the 40 and look for some misplaced 80 parts (pro tip - check inside the truck FIRST), but I was busy watching the window installers finally work their magic! Sadly, I forgot to ask them to change a floodlight bulb while they had their 40' ladders out.

 

[jamesurq]

James, test drive yet?

Started rear brakes and figured I'd take a look at the rear axle since it's a 2 minute removal. Looks good so I put it back and tighten gently with a 3/8" socket and the last one does this.

So I'm off to a good start on the rear brakes!

 

[sleepycruiser]

I TRIED to do my shocks but no way do I want to try to get that top bolt on the rears off. And I dont want to cut a hole in the floor.....but maybe that is the next step.

I was able to solder in a diode to get the auto up feature on the DS window.

 

[lt1fire]

I TRIED to do my shocks but no way do I want to try to get that top bolt on the rears off. And I dont want to cut a hole in the floor.....but maybe that is the next step.

I was able to solder in a diode to get the auto up feature on the DS window.

They aren't really that hard to do once you get in there, but there are some who have cut a 1 1/2 inc whole above them

 

[sleepycruiser]

I took out my spare and jacked up the back a few inches and didn't really have the right tools. I am going to try to get a flex head ratchet for that top bolt and try again.

 

[NCFJ]

Take out the shock mount plate with two bolts

 

[sleepycruiser]

Thanks, I will try that tomorrow. I thought that might work but wasn't sure how it all connected.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Also, maybe a dumb question but the shocks aren't labeled DS/PS...does it make a difference?

 

[S4Cruiser]

Take out the shock mount plate with two bolts

Yep - perfect advice...I think that's about the only way to get the top nut off??