You can just rebuild your tcase if you’d prefer instead of buying a new one.
I bought new shafts from Tom woods. Front and rear
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (19 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
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You can just rebuild your tcase if you’d prefer instead of buying a new one.
I bought new shafts from Tom woods. Front and rear
ROBsSON
Yeah thats my dad
I got a t case getting machined for some 4:1 gears that’ll go behind the 5 speed.
Awesome, how long was the wait for them?
Awesome! I ordered them on the 26th and they arrived on the 2nd. Super fast!
Measure yourself but my shafts were 3.5” longer up front and 3.5” shorter in the back. I went double cardan up front to clear the crossmember and it fits great. It may fit without one but I didn’t want to take the chance.
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
30 min into truggy transformation.
Building something more stout and practical to be able to carry tools, spares, fluids, 40” spare, recovery gear and other miscellaneous crap for the trail.
Took some quick measurements and started cutting. Don’t have a plan, just winging it and going to work around the tubing that is already there.
Building something more stout and practical to be able to carry tools, spares, fluids, 40” spare, recovery gear and other miscellaneous crap for the trail.
Took some quick measurements and started cutting. Don’t have a plan, just winging it and going to work around the tubing that is already there.
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
Get the rest of the bed off today. Going to pull the busted up half doors and make new ones. Also going to spend about an hour on each B pillar with the dent puller and straight then out. Not make them perfect, just better than they currently are.
Also going to either pull the front fenders or just cut them more to keep the 40” tires out of them.
I’m also going to cut those two diagonal bars. They kind of limit the full use of the whole bed. Might try to Incorporate them somewhere else but I’m not worried if they don’t make the cut.
More progress next week.
Also going to either pull the front fenders or just cut them more to keep the 40” tires out of them.
I’m also going to cut those two diagonal bars. They kind of limit the full use of the whole bed. Might try to Incorporate them somewhere else but I’m not worried if they don’t make the cut.
More progress next week.
Slowly but surely making reassembly progress on the front axle. Any brake bleeding tips? I have a new MC, calipers, and lines front and rear, so will have lots of air.
"bench bleed" the mc before you do anything else
New front pads and rotors, and a front right cv in Laura's e90 this afternoon. Nice easy 3hr job.
I've been trying to get Pearl back together after the front axle rebuild, and having trouble bleeding the brakes. I have new brake booster, MC, calipers, stainless front hoses, and several hard lines that were leaking. I am a one-man operation so only have a handheld vacuum pump to work with. I've gone around the rig 3 times bleeding each valve until there appears to be no more bubbles (RR, LR, RF, LF), and gone through a whole bottle of fluid, but can't get a firm pedal with either the engine off or running.
Anyone have tips or anyone in the South Charlotte area able to assist?
Anyone have tips or anyone in the South Charlotte area able to assist?
Did you "bench bleed" the master as suggested?
On the rear cylinders...adjust them tight first...so tight that you cannot spin the wheels. Then bleed. Then adjust them back out to spec.
Sequence should actually be LR, RR, RF, LF but it probably doesn't matter much. Technically the driver rear is farthest from the master. If you look at the location of the soft line to the rear axle you'll see why I say that.
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@open country As mentioned earlier, did you bench bleed the new master? Look it up and read/watch again to confirm you didn't miss something. Full disclosure, I've never had to replace a master cylinder so I'm not familiar with the process other than it stops a lot of people in their tracks. Pun somewhat intended.
In the past, I have used to run a long line from the caliper bleed screw and tie it off in the master reservoir so as to just recycle the fluid to avoid having to get out and top it off over and over, plus to prevent having to trash so much new brake fluid. Somebody might complain about possible containment's getting in the system that way, but I figure that they would have had to come from the system to begin with. Of course, that was with an 80, so I'm not sure if your 60 has all the crannies for air to hide or if it should be a lot simpler.
I'd like to help out but I'm not home in Charlotte for any appreciable time for a couple more weeks.
In the past, I have used to run a long line from the caliper bleed screw and tie it off in the master reservoir so as to just recycle the fluid to avoid having to get out and top it off over and over, plus to prevent having to trash so much new brake fluid. Somebody might complain about possible containment's getting in the system that way, but I figure that they would have had to come from the system to begin with. Of course, that was with an 80, so I'm not sure if your 60 has all the crannies for air to hide or if it should be a lot simpler.
I'd like to help out but I'm not home in Charlotte for any appreciable time for a couple more weeks.
Edit - revised post below.
Thanks to both - I attempted to bench bleed the master by bolting to the booster but plugging the lines and pushing the brake pedal until no more bubbles came through the open reservoir top. Not sure if this was the right way?
With the new booster (City Racer) I also matched the output rod length to the OEM I pulled off, could this rod need adjusting to put more pressure on the MC?
Tempted to try and take it to a shop and have them do a brake bleed along with alignment (did TRE's on this job), but sketched out by the soft pedal on open roads.
Normally I would offer to help as well. I've got a tight schedule for the next few days, so I can only offer suggestions on here. The way I bench bleed is to install the master and run two soft lines (clear tubing stuffed into the ports or thread hose barbs into the ports with the tubes going back up to the reservoir. Fill the res and pump until the clear tubing passes no more bubbles. Then pull off the tubing and quickly attach the hard lines.
The rod length can affect the action of the master. The best way to know the right length is to either buy a tool or make one. It looks like you are using the "trial and error" method. I made a pushrod depth tool out of cardboard, a piece of tape and a bamboo skewer. Just be aware that if the rod is too short, the push is not enough. If it's too long, your brakes will drag.
The rod length can affect the action of the master. The best way to know the right length is to either buy a tool or make one. It looks like you are using the "trial and error" method. I made a pushrod depth tool out of cardboard, a piece of tape and a bamboo skewer. Just be aware that if the rod is too short, the push is not enough. If it's too long, your brakes will drag.
Thanks - I am trying to get it back together by end of day tomorrow, before I leave town for work, and I only get 1-2 hours a day of Cruiser time generally.
I am going to have to run and grab more fluid, then try either your bench bleed above or the FSM (depress pedal, plug holes with fingers, release pedal) if I can snag a neighbor to help. Will also try and set the booster rod length to the best of my ability without the SST the FSM mentions. Then go back to the wheel bleeders and start with LR this time.
Tighten the rear brake adjusters all the way. Then bleed. Then re-adjust. That will help. One last thing...are you 100 percent sure that you put the calipers on the correct sides? In other words, are the brake bleeders at the top of the caliper and not the bottom? Don't ask me why I'm asking you this question... They can be installed backwards on some vehicles and you'll never get them bled with the bleed screws at the bottom.
Bench bleed = putting hoses in the ports and routing them into the reservoir, then actuating the mc until there are no bubbles. What are you bleeding ift he lines are plugged?
Will try and do the rear adjuster trick as well. Calipers are on correctly, bleeders at top.
fourtrax
SILVER Star
about 21:30 he finds the right tools to remove the crank bolt.
I want that breaker bar
