TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (12 Viewers)

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Sandy is getting closer to driving again. Time to order driveshafts for the H55

Johnny was kind enough to come lend a set of hands to help me muscle it into place.

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So my V8 FJ40 has been a pain since the engine swap with super rich exhaust no matter what I do.
Motor was used with a mild rebuild from a friend.

The exhaust is so bad to the point that you have blinding exhaust smell in the truck with or without the top on. Family will not ride in the truck and I do not blame them.


Here is a short list over the last year or so:
Had the 487 heads professionally rebuilt. Compression and leak down seem fine.

New intake, Edlebrock
Carb spacer and and older Edlebrock, switched a new 600 Brawler. Jetted down two and put in a fuel pressure regulator from Holley.
Changed the power valve.
Some chineseium Jegs brand HEI distributor. Switched to an MSD Streetfire HEI
Multiple plugs and wires. Diff temps
Full custom exhaust, duels. Came out the back corners. Changed it to side dumps after the tires. Way too loud. Hated it.
Went to smaller duals to a single muffler with a single 3" side exit after tires.

Multiple timing changes, runs better with more timing in it.

This sniper kit is up next as a friend with a built Nova had it on and decided to go back to a carb. Did not run it long and gave it to me for way less than half of retail.

If this does not work..I will be taking the accessories off again to see if it cam related. I did not install the cam. According to an old school guy I know, his money is on cam timing. It has an RV grind comp cam in it that was new a few years ago. Nothing rowdy.

We will see if the sniper can adjust for it. If not, i will be shortblock shopping as I am tired of it.

02 Bung went on last night, wiring is mostly done (there is not much of it. Really simple)
Waiting on new Walbro pump and high pressure line.

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Did you have to move the crossmember?

No he didn't. It all bolted right up, as expected. The 2F bellhousing (that he has) is paired with his crossmember, same as the 3F bellhousing (on the late fj60 2Fs) is paired with the late crossmember. The H41/H42(long and short)/H55 all have the same bellhousing to mount distance.

The crossmember had to be unbolted to get the trans out (duh) but not moved fore or aft in the truck.
 
No he didn't. It all bolted right up, as expected. The 2F bellhousing (that he has) is paired with his crossmember, same as the 3F bellhousing (on the late fj60 2Fs) is paired with the late crossmember. The H41/H42(long and short)/H55 all have the same bellhousing to mount distance.

The crossmember had to be unbolted to get the trans out (duh) but not moved fore or aft in the truck.

Ok so the way I’m understanding then is as long as it’s still the same stock (came with that specific truck) bell housing and crossmember then I shouldn’t have to move my crossmember? My 60s also a pre 85 so I’ve been kinda stalking to see how it all goes.
 
Ok so the way I’m understanding then is as long as it’s still the same stock (came with that specific truck) bell housing and crossmember then I shouldn’t have to move my crossmember? My 60s also a pre 85 so I’ve been kinda stalking to see how it all goes.

That's exactly right. The trans will bolt into your truck as is, but you need to change the driveshaft lengths and t-case shift linkage.
 
No he didn't. It all bolted right up, as expected. The 2F bellhousing (that he has) is paired with his crossmember, same as the 3F bellhousing (on the late fj60 2Fs) is paired with the late crossmember. The H41/H42(long and short)/H55 all have the same bellhousing to mount distance.

The crossmember had to be unbolted to get the trans out (duh) but not moved fore or aft in the truck.

Thanks for correctly answering his question. I completely misunderstood it and though he asked if you had to "re"move the crossmember.

Ok so the way I’m understanding then is as long as it’s still the same stock (came with that specific truck) bell housing and crossmember then I shouldn’t have to move my crossmember? My 60s also a pre 85 so I’ve been kinda stalking to see how it all goes.

As Johnny said the crossmember location stays the same. Let me know if you have questions about parts or the swap in general. I did a lot of research before I did mine. Parts needed off the top of my head.

For a pre-85 truck
- Longer front driveshaft
- Shorter rear driveshaft
- Transfer case linkage and shifter from a later truck or Trail Tailor's linkage kit.
- Clearance bell housing for H55 (easy to do)

Parts you'll need regardless of truck year
- Longer transmission/t-case bolts
- 5th gear oiler cup
- H55 shifter and shift knob
- H55 transmission
- Transfer case rebuild kit (good to do while you're in there)
- Clutch kit
 
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I'm considering having Charlie's injectors cleaned before I resinstall them. I wasn't going to do it, based on the marginal performance improvement I've seen from others who've posted their experience. I may have changed my mind after cleaning the exterior yesterday. I sprayed some contact cleaner in the inlet and wiped it down and was surprised at how much crap was in there. I was also surprised at the trouble someone took to create turbulent inlet flow; no wonder these things are so expensive.

Anyone have any recent experience with an injector cleaning service in Charlotte? I'm not really so concerned that I'd postpone the head reinstall for this, so if I can't find a shop in town, I'm going to call it good as is.

The only people I could find were these guys:
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which are the same as this guy, who appears to operate out of his house at the lake:
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He wants $22 a piece for the cleaning and testing service, which seems high to me.

I have no concerns about taking them to a diesel repair shop, but other than trolling the internet (or the I-85 service road), I have no idea where to look.
 
Tore my carb apart to start on my desmog while waiting for my driveshafts to show up. Hit a snag when I realized my choke shaft needed replacing. Seems to be another supporting argument that the shop that did the work on this truck for the PO really didn't do a great job on anything they touched as everything is needing to be redone or doesn't look to have been done correctly.

Waiting on that now. Going to get going on the desmog this week.

Still need to try and get the 2nd main jet removed that someone stripped trying to remove last time. :bang:
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I'm considering having Charlie's injectors cleaned before I resinstall them. I wasn't going to do it, based on the marginal performance improvement I've seen from others who've posted their experience. I may have changed my mind after cleaning the exterior yesterday. I sprayed some contact cleaner in the inlet and wiped it down and was surprised at how much crap was in there. I was also surprised at the trouble someone took to create turbulent inlet flow; no wonder these things are so expensive.

Anyone have any recent experience with an injector cleaning service in Charlotte? I'm not really so concerned that I'd postpone the head reinstall for this, so if I can't find a shop in town, I'm going to call it good as is.


He wants $22 a piece for the cleaning and testing service, which seems high to me.

I have no concerns about taking them to a diesel repair shop, but other than trolling the internet (or the I-85 service road), I have no idea where to look.

When I pulled the intake mainfold on my 3VZE 4Runner a couple of years ago to replace the Knock Sensor, I investigated injectors "while I was in there". I don't recall the exact price but Witch Hunter was weeks out and almost as expensive as Remanufactured Bosch injectors from Precision Auto Injectors. I got six re-man ones from them for $125 with shipping....


Doesn't look like they have a lot of Toyota inventory at the moment though
 
I've not seen a fault on any of them, so I assume they're functional. Based on the crap (which I really hope is fuel additives) I wiped out of the inlet side, I'm pretty sure the exhaust side of the solenoid is nasty.

It's odd that Precision doesn't list Land Cruiser injectors. I thought Toyota used the same ones across all the six cylinder engines.
 
Tore my carb apart to start on my desmog while waiting for my driveshafts to show up. Hit a snag when I realized my choke shaft needed replacing. Seems to be another supporting argument that the shop that did the work on this truck for the PO really didn't do a great job on anything they touched as everything is needing to be redone or doesn't look to have been done correctly.

Waiting on that now. Going to get going on the desmog this week.

Still need to try and get the 2nd main jet removed that someone stripped trying to remove last time. :bang:
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Man! That looks so much like my bench top right now with my 715cfm Holley torn down.
 
My 40 hasn't been in the driveway an hour and I already have $600 worth of parts orders pending.

Life is good.
 
That's exactly right. The trans will bolt into your truck as is, but you need to change the driveshaft lengths and t-case shift linkage.

Thanks for correctly answering his question. I completely misunderstood it and though he asked if you had to "re"move the crossmember.



As Johnny said the crossmember location stays the same. Let me know if you have questions about parts or the swap in general. I did a lot of research before I did mine. Parts needed off the top of my head.

For a pre-85 truck
- Longer front driveshaft
- Shorter rear driveshaft
- Transfer case linkage and shifter from a later truck or Trail Tailor's linkage kit.
- Clearance bell housing for H55 (easy to do)

Parts you'll need regardless of truck year
- Longer transmission/t-case bolts
- 5th gear oiler cup
- H55 shifter and shift knob
- H55 transmission
- Transfer case rebuild kit (good to do while you're in there)
- Clutch kit
Awesome Thanks Johnny

And thanks to you too Hokie, I’ve read through a few threads last time I wanted to do this but it was for my previous 60 which was a late 85 so was just toss in and go.

Gonna order my clutch kit here in the next few weeks and then it’ll be a waiting game the trans and tcase and getting some drive shafts for it.

Are you just getting some driveshafts made or sourcing from another truck?
 

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