TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)

[NCFJ]

If it were me, I'd just toss another pushrod in there and set the lash. Go ahead and adjust them all and pay particular attention to how that one sounds. Change the oil. It may be totally fine. If it ticks then oh well... The Crockpot has a valve tick and guess what? It still runs fine. I know it won't last forever but it's not getting any worse. I'm not going to lose sleep over it and I'm damn sure not going to pull the motor to fix it...not until it dies anyway.

I agree! It is what it is, so hope for the best and see what it does. Heather's 80 has what most think is a wrist pin knock, had it since we got it and just keeps going. I'm not worried about it, Heather tells people that comment that it is a diesel

 

[elkaholic]

good tutorial on setting the lash and valve clearance?

yea, I searched, and I don't have a FSM at this point, but looks like I need to get me a copy.

Trollhole has a free download. Search here for "FSM at a heck of a price" or something like that.

 

[roadstr6]

Intake valves @ .008
Exhaust Valves @ .014
Valves in this order from front to back: EIIEEIIEEIIE

You'll want to set your bad one first after you drop in the new push rod (edit). Maybe set it .002 looser than spec since you will be setting it cold. Then run the truck and warm everything up to temp and adjust everything to spec.

Lots of different methods but here's how I do it: Warm up truck and with truck running, check for tight valves with .008 and .014 feeler gauges. Write down which ones are tight. With truck still running, go up to .010 and .016 to check for the ones that are loose. Note those. Stop engine. Adjust the valves that were either too tight or too loose. Use the "rule of 13" In other words, when #1 valve is open (rocker down), adjust #12. When # 2 is open, adjust # 11. #3-#10, #4-#9, etc.

If you have a helper, to turn the motor, pull the coil wire and have the helper bump the key to cycle the engine. If you don't have a helper, pull the plugs and put a socket on the alternator pulley and turn it by hand. Work fast. You want to do your adjusting before the engine gets too cool. Mr. T says to adjust valve lash with a hot engine.

 

[onemanarmy]

well that is a gold mine of info. thank you.

Now to track down a lifter. Anyone around the Triangle have one that I can take off your hands?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You need a pushrod, not a lifter. Big difference between the two

I'll check when I get home, but I think mine are all gone.

 

[Rice]

I agree! It is what it is, so hope for the best and see what it does. Heather's 80 has what most think is a wrist pin knock, had it since we got it and just keeps going. I'm not worried about it, Heather tells people that comment that it is a diesel

The very reason I am looking to repower the 80. But as you say, it just keeps going. Including the previous owner I'm guessing I have about 20K miles on this knocking beast and continue to drive while patiently looking for the right deal.

 

[Mtbcoach]

well that is a gold mine of info. thank you.

Now to track down a lifter. Anyone around the Triangle have one that I can take off your hands?

I'm searching for both to help out, can't find either in the garage but I know I must have them. I found the 2F head I took off but can't seem to locate the pushrods and/or rocker assembly, they must be in my storage unit...

 

[onemanarmy]

I'm searching for both to help out, can't find either in the garage but I know I must have them. I found the 2F head I took off but can't seem to locate the pushrods and/or rocker assembly, they must be in my storage unit...

Thanks for the lookout. Let me know if you find any.

Yea, a pushrod is what I need. Just had lifter on the mind for some reason.

 

[roadstr6]

Thanks for the lookout. Let me know if you find any.

Yea, a pushrod is what I need. Just had lifter on the mind for some reason.

I messed you up by calling it a lifter in my info post. Totally my fault! I edited my post to correct it to say pushrod and not lifter.

 

[NCFJ]

Our plan is to keep this 80 or one like it for a long time. I want to get the rest of the armor on it and the Y-link steering before I do the castor correction bushings and have it aligned. Picked up some steel today. Griffin called and the radiator is ready.

 

[mtweller]

Honestly, the lifter may be damaged too. I will check my stash, may have a pushrod here - can't recall.

 

[Mtbcoach]

Thanks for the lookout. Let me know if you find any.

Yea, a pushrod is what I need. Just had lifter on the mind for some reason.

I found them I grabbed one of each anyway. Send me a PM so we can arrange getting them in your hands...

 

[NCFJ]

You're OK Jerry

 

[Mtbcoach]

You're OK Jerry

Thanks buddy, truly a club effort, I was just determined to find them, knew I had them, couldn't chill till I found the parts.

Truth be told, I was ready to pull the trigger on it also but he beat me to it. However, I'd drop the MB OM617/H55/split t-case combo I have in the garage into it. You see, if I find that drivetrain combo a home, I'd have to find something else to put into the FJ55 at your shop...

 

[NCFJ]

LOL, sounds like you are skeeming to me!! This is a good thing. You build that 55 right and you'll be the coolest kid at the sock hop

Vision Jerry, Vision...................................

After I get done the 80 after the current 80 I might steal it from ya

 

[NCFJ]

After I get done the 80 after the current 80 I might steal it from ya

 

[lowtops]

Warm up truck and with truck running

I have never set valves this way, but have heard that people do.
I assume that oil is not slinging everywhere when running?
I would like to try it this way next time if there is not a huge mess to clean up.

 

[roadstr6]

No. At idle speed, oil will not sling everywhere. You may have a couple of drops to escape down the side of the head but if the truck is sitting level, it should not be a mess to clean up. Beware though that checking the clearances with the engine running can beat up your feeler gauges a little.

I don't try to make the adjustments with the truck running. I only determine which valves need adjusting. The adjustments are made with the engine stopped. Some people adjust while running. I'm not that coordinated!

 

[onemanarmy]

Thanks Jerry.....I'll get with you and try out a new pushrod. I've seen vids of people adjusting the valves with the engine running, but I'll probably begin by trying to dial them in with it hot but off.

I knew people were looking at the 60, the kid I talked to said he had numerous inquiries and I can't believe someone didn't get to it before I could seeing that I had to drive from Raleigh 2 weeks after it was posted.

I'll sell it as it is now, but due to the fact that I've uncovered the little engine issue, not sure if I can get my money back at this time, and it needs a few more things that the craigslist ad didn't mention.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I was apprehensive to attempt the engine running valve adjustment myself, but it's not too bad. The valves don't move as much as you might think.

That said, it's hell on your feeler gauges.