^^ I hate when that happens...
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
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I know, right? It must be something I'm doing wrong, because this is at least the fifth time this has happened to me.
Fit up:
The 4BT is merely helping evolution take the natural course of progression a little faster than it would have before
Pulled of the valve cover on my new 60 and found this...any idea of what would cause it? Looks like I've got some wrenching to do...Can I just drop a new pushrod in and be good? Anyone have one to spare?
Pulled of the valve cover on my new 60 and found this...any idea of what would cause it? Looks like I've got some wrenching to do...Can I just drop a new pushrod in and be good? Anyone have one to spare?
Speaking of 4BT ... I'll bet that was making a little noise.
Is the lash in the picture the way you found it? If it was that loose it can explain the hammered push rod. Sadly it also means the cam lobe was taking some hits. When the new pushrod goes in be sure to set the valve clearances carefully, then should be okay provided it didn't wipe a cam lobe. You will know if the cam lobe is bad because even with the valves set properly it will have a tick.
I am worried that the cam took some hits, but we will see. If the valve was stuck closed, maybe there wasn't too much force put on the cam at odd times.
That is exactly how I found it, I was crunched for time and pretty much stopped when I uncovered that little gem.
Are all 2F pushrods the same throughout the years?
That is exactly how I found it, I was crunched for time and pretty much stopped when I uncovered that little gem.
Are all 2F pushrods the same throughout the years?
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The last 6 months of 100 ownership has felt like this:
The alternator made a heck of a noise last Monday, so I got on the horn with Onur for a new one.
When I pulled it off the bearings seem fine. It must have been a winding problem.
While changing the valve cover gaskets, I discovered why LC's cost so much. The engine is made of GOLD JERRY, GOLD!
The key broke a few weeks back when the weather was so cold. Great way to start your day.
And its still not over. More work in a few weeks(shocks, oil leak, RADIO, PS res. and hoses).
Big, big, big thanks to Onur for the parts and pep talk.
The alternator made a heck of a noise last Monday, so I got on the horn with Onur for a new one.
When I pulled it off the bearings seem fine. It must have been a winding problem.
While changing the valve cover gaskets, I discovered why LC's cost so much. The engine is made of GOLD JERRY, GOLD!
The key broke a few weeks back when the weather was so cold. Great way to start your day.
And its still not over. More work in a few weeks(shocks, oil leak, RADIO, PS res. and hoses).
Big, big, big thanks to Onur for the parts and pep talk.
Incorrect, guessing too loose based on the picture, valve lash can cause that. Way too tight causes the pushrod to split open like a plugged gun from a loony tunes cartoon.
I am not sure that 2F pushrods are the same throughout the years, although I speculate that there were some changes along the way. However, the pushrods will be the same through the 60 series trucks. I'll check and see if I have one kicking around.
If you're not willing to take the cam out (I wouldn't) then just throw a new pushrod in there and correctly set the valve lash, then change the oil.
My plan of attack is to take the pushrod out, make sure the valve moves, replace the pushrod, set clearances, and change the oil. I'm sure it could use an oil change anyway. Hopefully good news from all that, but we will see.
Was doing some quick ebay searching and saw some 2F FJ40 used pushrods for sale, that's why I was asking. I've never needed to know that bit of info before.
Was doing some quick ebay searching and saw some 2F FJ40 used pushrods for sale, that's why I was asking. I've never needed to know that bit of info before.
Yup .... check the valves, slip in pushrod, and set the lash. I suggest not changing the oil until you have determined health of the cam.
good tutorial on setting the lash and valve clearance?
yea, I searched, and I don't have a FSM at this point, but looks like I need to get me a copy.
yea, I searched, and I don't have a FSM at this point, but looks like I need to get me a copy.
How is he going to check the health of the cam without taking the cam out, or the oil pan off?
Yes, I meant stuck open and not putting pressure on the lobe and pushrod.
Once the new rod is on, turning the crank by hand should at least give me an idea of somewhat proper operation and then go from there.
Two options: One would be the tick mentioned earlier. If the ramps on the lobe are f'd up it will shut the valve too hard even with proper adjustment. This is what I was referring to when I suggested waiting to change the oil.
Option two is a dial micrometer on the rocker. Note .... you would not only be watching the micrometer to measure overall lift but also for smoothness as the valve opens and closes.
Tick could also manifest itself from improperly adjusted valves, or from an exhaust leak though. I don't know how to listen for a valve shut tick over a valve adjustment tick.
I like the micrometer option. Only thing you'd need is the stock cam lift numbers.
EDIT: If we wanted to get hardcore, you could take the valvecover, dizzy and side cover off, then pull out the pushrods and lifters, then use a borescope to look at the lobes directly.
If it were me, I'd just toss another pushrod in there and set the lash. Go ahead and adjust them all and pay particular attention to how that one sounds. Change the oil. It may be totally fine. If it ticks then oh well... The Crockpot has a valve tick and guess what? It still runs fine. I know it won't last forever but it's not getting any worse. I'm not going to lose sleep over it and I'm damn sure not going to pull the motor to fix it...not until it dies anyway.
Option one would be futile if the patient was a 4BT
but a valve hitting the seat too hard is a fairly easy sound to hear. Quite right .... it depends on all the valves being properly lashed. After that there will be one guy that won't shut up regardless of lash.Option two ... either use the published cam numbers or compare with the other valves.
