40LandCruising
Anderson
I went on a road trip to Charlotte lol
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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40LandCruising
Anderson
Yeah it's leather, and absolutely ragged.
I got the front e locker axle, rear axle shafts, rear hubs, front driveshaft, and steering box(should've checked the splines at the yard)
The rear e locker, fenders, grill, valence, headlights, and dash had been pulled
Rear driveshaft was dented from The forklift.
Were the engine and transmission still there?
40LandCruising
Anderson
Yeah engine trans and tcase were there, looked intact.
Looked like it sat a little while, but that's all I noticed. Didn't check fluids or anything. LKQ nickles and dimes you to death so if you get anything pay attention to what they try to ring you up for and be willing to pull stuff off at the checkout counter.
I managed to convince them not to charge me for the brake rotors on the front axle since they were captured, the guy was cool, but they did want $42/pop for calipers so those got promptly removed
Well, they are in business to sell parts...
40LandCruising
Anderson
This they are, but to me an 'axle assembly', should include everything bolted to the axle.
I prefer mom and pop old school junkyards, where I can wheel and deal and climb over S**t Box mountain and just be feral lol
Are there any left?
40LandCruising
Anderson
I've managed to find several around me, unsurprisingly very little Toyotas to be found, but I like to go just to explore.
Fixed it for ya.
If there were more Land Cruisers in yards, we'd probably drive less of them.
4:56 regear as my front pinion bearing was smoked. Should have done 4:88 but I am on road far more often than off and I got a good price on em. My "37's" are also like 35.5" mounted so 4:56 it is.
Local diff guy here in Mooresville is doing them really reasonably.
20 year old longfields still pretty shiny!
Local diff guy here in Mooresville is doing them really reasonably.
20 year old longfields still pretty shiny!
Either a wrenching / part question, or a cry for help:
Has anyone found a petcock for the 80 series radiator, for the 1FZ–FE, with a downspout for connecting a tube so that you don't wash the entire engine/frame when draining the radiator? I has to have an M14x2.0 thread to match the radiator, or at least a coupler to screw into the bottom tank, which has that thread.
I'm at the point where I'm going to make one. I have a 100 series engine block drain sealing screw that I think I'm going to turn a petcock for, and then sweat a Ø3/8" tube onto, so that I can slip a hose on the valve assembly and route it into a drain bucket.
Has anyone found a petcock for the 80 series radiator, for the 1FZ–FE, with a downspout for connecting a tube so that you don't wash the entire engine/frame when draining the radiator? I has to have an M14x2.0 thread to match the radiator, or at least a coupler to screw into the bottom tank, which has that thread.
I'm at the point where I'm going to make one. I have a 100 series engine block drain sealing screw that I think I'm going to turn a petcock for, and then sweat a Ø3/8" tube onto, so that I can slip a hose on the valve assembly and route it into a drain bucket.
I'm not a mechanic, but I do not think these should be left unsupervised in the bottom of the housing.
Took the diff apart and found no evidence of damage (aside from the aforementioned pinion bearing coming out several pieces).
Having broken a few axles over the years and replacing this diff once, I am thinking this is the ghost of damage past? I am not missing pinion or gear teeth, so I am bit perplexed.
Took the diff apart and found no evidence of damage (aside from the aforementioned pinion bearing coming out several pieces).
Having broken a few axles over the years and replacing this diff once, I am thinking this is the ghost of damage past? I am not missing pinion or gear teeth, so I am bit perplexed.
Looks like half a bearing race and some gear teeth to me. Ghost of damage past, and be glad it didn't cause ghost of damage present, lol.
Axle tubes can hide a lot when stuff blows up.
Axle tubes can hide a lot when stuff blows up.
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Im making these heat shields for my exhaust to keep heat away from the floor boards. I tried heat wrap but its too hard on the pipe.
Anyone in Charlotte handy with Holley Sniper EFI? My newly acquired 40 has some throttle/rev hang issues that I'm trying to correct. Could use a system overview and experienced prognosis in exchange for a few bucks or beers.
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9 times out of 10 it is cable /linkage related to engine movement. I’d recommend mounting a go-pro under-hood pointed at the cable setup and go for a drive.
I have a used one in mine on a SBC. Had a similar issue- ended up being the IAC. Once the IAC was set right, it has been fantastic. My issues was a weird rev and then a stall out when stopping. IIRC, IAC should be around 5-8 at idle. Mine would drop to zero. Yours may be running a little high.
I used a Lokar peddle and cable to eliminate the issues CruiserMatt mentioned above.
Welcome to swing by Mooresville and take a look- I would come to you but the truck is in a few pieces right now.
Thanks for the advice. I think it comes down to IAC adjustment as well. The throttle is engaging and moving correctly from what I can tell, and TPS reads correctly. IAC is 0 to 2 at idle, then on each rev it spikes to 25 to 40 and hangs before coming down, sometimes up to 30 seconds.
PO also put a 160 degree thermostat in the truck, so I am thinking I may need to go back to 180 as all the Sniper threads I read state learning and tuning needs to happen above 165.
PO also put a 160 degree thermostat in the truck, so I am thinking I may need to go back to 180 as all the Sniper threads I read state learning and tuning needs to happen above 165.