I know it's too late, but for next time. I have a set of really long and narrow needle nose pliers. I grab the straight middle section of the retainer. If you twist the retainer clockwise (as pictured) as you try to press it into the hole, the friction will spiral the retainer into the hole.
Two Buck Truck Carb Rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Two Buck
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Having the power valve stuck open will make it run rich, so this might be the problem causing you to fail the smog check if you are blowing high CO levels.
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The steel stud was seized to the aluminum manifold. When the stud came out, it pulled the threads out of the aluminum.
Remove the heatshield from the top of the manifold and helicoil the hole. Get a new stud & 12mm hex nut from the dealer.
Jim brings up a good point. What your picture above shows is the bore of the heat shield, which should be smooth. The stud treads into the aluminum manifold which is below the shield. Take Jim's advice.
"Take Jim's advice."
I would say that is always a sound avenue to go down
I would say that is always a sound avenue to go down
i wish there was a sticky thread with every post FJ40Jim has ever made. i could read that stuff for hours.
Two Buck
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- #29
Stupid question time...
I'm ready to reinstall the carb but I'm not sure if I need a base gasket or not. From reading different thread here I don't think I do, but I want to make sure. So...
Do I need gaskets between this...
...and this...
and this?
I think Spike also said something about greasing the baseplate? Where and how much would that be?
I'm ready to reinstall the carb but I'm not sure if I need a base gasket or not. From reading different thread here I don't think I do, but I want to make sure. So...
Do I need gaskets between this...
...and this...
and this?
I think Spike also said something about greasing the baseplate? Where and how much would that be?
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The pics are not in the right order. The throttle bracket sits on top of the carb base, which sits atop the manifold heat shield.
And no, there is no additional gasket needed in this case. The stock gasket that is bonded to the top of the insulator is visible and in good shape. As spike said, a thin schmear of grease or synth 90wt will keep the gasket from sticking to the carb for next time it comes off.
And no, there is no additional gasket needed in this case. The stock gasket that is bonded to the top of the insulator is visible and in good shape. As spike said, a thin schmear of grease or synth 90wt will keep the gasket from sticking to the carb for next time it comes off.
Two Buck
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- #31
Several homes 4 sale on my block. Must enjoy neighbor's cursing.
Carb is back on the engine, now I'm trying hook everything up. Two questions:
My neighbors hope I finish soon. I'm loud and slightly profane when under-the-hood doesn't go well.
Carb is back on the engine, now I'm trying hook everything up. Two questions:
- What the hell does the spring (#67 in the diagram below) go to?
- There must be a trick for getting the carb accelerator rods (#51 and #52) in place at both points. Can anyone share? Because it's really p!ssing me off.
My neighbors hope I finish soon. I'm loud and slightly profane when under-the-hood doesn't go well.
Two Buck
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- #32
Nevermind on #2. The trick is to connect the smaller linkage first, and that it clips on with some resistance rather than slip on easily. Then connect the larger linkage. My question on the larger linkage, though, is: Is there a retaining clip of some kind? It seems like there should be, but there wasn't when I disassembled.
Still looking for an answer to #1. I have the spring but don't know where it goes to.
In any event, the carb is on and most of the hoses are connected, and even though everything's not connected up, I had to try to start it up anyway. And... it started!
It runs like s*** and won't idle, but at least it starts. I figure once I get the air cleaner and everything else on maybe it'll run better. (I hope.)
Two Buck
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- #33
Carb is back on the engine, now I'm trying hook everything up. Two questions:
- What the hell does the spring (#67 in the diagram below) go to?
- There must be a trick for getting the carb accelerator rods (#51 and #52) in place at both points. Can anyone share? Because it's really p!ssing me off.
My neighbors hope I finish soon. I'm loud and slightly profane when under-the-hood doesn't go well.
Anyone??? Any help on where the spring goes?
# 67 is throttle return spring.
Best pix I've got, at the moment.
Best pix I've got, at the moment.
Yeah, #67 is the throttle return spring. unfortunately in the schematic is is shown backwards. in the schematic, the left side of the spring attaches to the linkage bracket held on by the carb bolts. The right side of the spring attaches to a tab attached to the primary throttle linkage.
The linkage #51 has a right way and a wrong way to install it. one of the lever arms is larger than the other. If you put it on backwards the throttle won't open up all the way. If you are unsure that you put it on correctly you can search for one of Jim's posts..
edit: here's the post from JimC: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/52031-82-fj60-looses-power-going-up-hills.html#post583113
The linkage #51 has a right way and a wrong way to install it. one of the lever arms is larger than the other. If you put it on backwards the throttle won't open up all the way. If you are unsure that you put it on correctly you can search for one of Jim's posts..
edit: here's the post from JimC: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/52031-82-fj60-looses-power-going-up-hills.html#post583113
Last edited:
Two Buck
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Thanks Alf, those pics helped. I had this "extra" cotter pin left over with the spring and I had a feeling it went with the throttle linkage but I couldn't figure how. Your picture showed me how and where it goes. Thanks!
I'll tell you what, though... Is it just me, or do you practically have to be an acrobat to work on these things? I climbed under the hood and was lying down across the engine when I was hooking up the throttle linkage, and it seems like everything is situated so you can barely reach it with one hand but can't see it at the same time.
I'll tell you what, though... Is it just me, or do you practically have to be an acrobat to work on these things? I climbed under the hood and was lying down across the engine when I was hooking up the throttle linkage, and it seems like everything is situated so you can barely reach it with one hand but can't see it at the same time.
Two Buck
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...and the hits keep coming
Now the truck won't idle. It starts okay and runs with my foot on the gas (a little rough there, though), but it won't idle. If I give it constant gas then it wants to die in about 15 seconds. Only way to keep it going is to keep revving it.
Ideas?
Now the truck won't idle. It starts okay and runs with my foot on the gas (a little rough there, though), but it won't idle. If I give it constant gas then it wants to die in about 15 seconds. Only way to keep it going is to keep revving it.
Ideas?
Do a search for Idle Control Solenoid. Check that first. It's the click-click-click you will hear when tapping the connector (with key in RUN) ...
