2F Carburetor rebuild parts placement help (2 Viewers)

[Beehanger]

Hi all,

Im in need of help with this rebuild, I did the cardinal sin of not taking enough photos (even though I took a lot) and don’t have the FSM.
@Pin_Head I watched your carb rebuild videos start to finish. I noticed you were reading the FSM. Would you be so kind to point me in the right direction here or send me a few photos of the FSM for this part? I’m rebuilding the top half of one of the Amazon carbs. (Not sure if this changes any of the diagrams)


Have sunk way too much time in struggling with this. Asking for some serious help and am willing to pay for FaceTime help. I have all my parts laid out and swear im missing a parts bag, but don’t know enough to know what, beyond the larger ball. (Not that I know where it goes anyway)

Finally if FaceTime isn’t an option,
I’m posting a photo of all the parts I’m sure it will be obvious what’s missing to someone who knows what they’re doing. (Process of elimination never fails but I’m incapable at this moment.) If my hunch is correct and there’s stuff missing, I’ll continue scouring for that bag that may or may not exist. Thank you guys in advance, gunna need some help on this one, and would once again love some step by step help over video.

Thanks
Dan

 

[OSS]

I can’t help you with putting it back together… but here is a link to the complete Toyota 2F Engine FSM. The carburetor section is in there.
This link will expire in a few days, so download it soon.

http://www.bluewater.surf/1/2F-Engine-FSM.pdf

 

[Pin_Head]

Sorry, but I don't have the FSM any more. I sold it with my 40 about 10 years ago. Sniff

 

[Skreddy]

Is that all the farther you are taking it apart? It doesn’t look like you tried “machining” any of the surfaces and if you aren’t taking the bottom off to do the same, I think you’re setting yourself up for poor results and wasted money.

As to missing parts, if I remember right, the balls, keeper pins and some other small parts come in a bag within a bag. Did it get dropped when the package got opened? Would need to see a (more) pics of everything you have, including gaskets, etc to know what you have or don’t have.

 

[Beehanger]

Is that all the farther you are taking it apart? It doesn’t look like you tried “machining” any of the surfaces and if you aren’t taking the bottom off to do the same, I think you’re setting yourself up for poor results and wasted money.

As to missing parts, if I remember right, the balls, keeper pins and some other small parts come in a bag within a bag. Did it get dropped when the package got opened? Would need to see a (more) pics of everything you have, including gaskets, etc to know what you have or don’t have.

This is everything I have besides gaskets and everything else (besides large ball) is extra seemingly! Still doesn’t rule out things being missing though. Can I follow the FSM for the Chinese carb pictured?

P.s. I filed the surfaces a lot more since the photo was taken.

 

[Pin_Head]

What is the problem you are having with it?

While the Chinese carbs appear to be non-USA models, the FSM should still apply to most of the parts.

 

[MDH33]

Looks like the G-shaped keeper and ball are still in the accelerator pump bottom. The other ball goes below the small, long spring and stopper. Looks like it's all there to me as long as you have the gaskets and screws for the air horn.

 

[Beehanger]

Got it assembled last night. Seems the 2 check balls are the same size for the Chinese carbs. I did notice after activating the throttle body by hand a tinkering that the PLUNGER was super slow to return to starting position at first. Not sure if it’s the boot or what, but seems to be fine now as it snaps back quickly. I took the boot off slid the plunger all the way up and back down then reinstalled, seemed to resolve it.


Is something supposed to be lubricated? Could using the kits plunger instead of the stock one cause this? (They looked virtually identical, but one was 1/4 inch longer)

Seems dangerous if it decides to do this again

Thanks
Dan

 

[OSS]

The fuel will eventually ‘lubricate’ the accelerator pump wiper seals but it doesn’t hurt to wipe a little ATF on the seal that rubs on the bore to help it slip along in the beginning

 

[Beehanger]

Hey guys, got the thing together. Curious about adjusting the linkages to the butterflies choke etc per the FSM. Two questions:

1.) can the adjustments measurements in the FSM be used for the Amazon carb? Mine seem way off if so (see photos, those are them at their extremes) The rig ran when I had this on with these settings, but I know that doesn’t mean much.
2.) I don’t have the special service tools besides a caliper and feeler gauges, and am wondering the best way to tackle this and which measurements/ adjustments are absolutely essential. Do auto parts stores rent the tool shown in the diagrams?

@Pin_Head which spot did you measure in your video that told you wether or not to bend the arm?

@mattressking is the reason for lack of reliability on these Amazon carbs mostly because of these Jacky ass stock settings on the fueling or is something much more insidious?

Throwing a lot your guys way in questions, at the home stretch here and appreciate all of your help as always.

Best
Dan

 

[mattressking]

Hey guys, got the thing together. Curious about adjusting the linkages to the butterflies choke etc per the FSM. Two questions:

1.) can the adjustments measurements in the FSM be used for the Amazon carb? Mine seem way off if so (see photos). The rig ran when I had this on with these settings, but I know that doesn’t mean much.
2.) I don’t have the special service tools besides a caliper and feeler gauges, and am wondering the best way to tackle this and which measurements/ adjustments are absolutely essential. Do auto parts stores rent the tool shown in the diagrams?

Yes they can be used because it is a copy of a Non-USA carb. Use the manual that clearly states, general market. Final adjustments are done on-truck. They aren’t exact.

No you cannot get those tools locally. It’s rather easy to capture the required information with a feelers and basic angle finding. Or find a NOS tool kit, they pop up often.

@mattressking is the reason for lack of reliability on these Amazon carbs mostly because of these Jacky ass stock settings on the fueling or is something much more insidious?

Much more to it than that.

 

[Beehanger]

Is this normal? I’m noticing the choke arm not consistently returning to starting position. Is this normal?—(assuming this is activated by the choke pull in the cabin, and that it would only return when pushed in) sometimes it snaps back into place, though. I changed the fast idle screw for the choke already to stock setting. As you can tell from the pictures, when I let go in the second picture this time it didn’t snap back.

Part 2 of question: Should I be lubricating all this out hardware for smooth movement?

 

[Beehanger]

also, now noticing my choke angle stays at 90 degrees even with primary butterfly is fully open via throttle activation. Should I bend the choke arm linked to the throttle body to make it longer or something?

 

[Beehanger]

Is this vacuum advance port plugged off for desmog @mattressking ?

 

[Beehanger]

Last question. I installed the kits plunger rather than the old one into the carb. I’m wondering if this loss in .05 inches of length on the plunger will be consequential.

I’m currently at .23 inches on the plunger depression difference, but can’t bend the aftermarket carb plunger linkage arm (not like the stock carb) BUT and I still have the old arm from my aisan awaiting rebuild, so could hypothetically use that and bend that arm to get the .374 spec .( I am noting though, that this .374 number may not be accurate for this carb since the overall height is shorter. This is why I’m checking here before I take stuff apart)

What do we think? Is the shorter plunger going to cause issues? Install my old adjustable arm?

Thanks in advance, owe everyone some beers,

Dan

 

[mattressking]

Is this vacuum advance port plugged off for desmog @mattressking ?

View attachment 3514282

You connect port to your vacuum advance…..this is all covered in your emissions diagram manual. Please read that and learn it. If you plan to drive this truck often you have to learn how to fix it not ask questions each time it fails

You also need to test the vacuum diaphragms on distributor - if they don’t work then you don’t need that port. That’s another topic that you don’t need to touch on yet.

For the AP pump, use the one supplied with carb. Leather AP is preferred and superior. Measure movement of pin on accelerator pump arm - it should be 9.5mm.