Two Buck Truck Carb Rebuild

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so how did you set up the carb after you rebuilt it? I usually set the idle mixture screw turned out from seated 1 1/2 to two turns. and the idle speed screw should be engaged with the throttle plate linkage.

also check to make sure the gasoline level is 1/2 way up the sight glass. If your float is set too high you could be flooding the carb at idle.
 
If all of the above checks out and you've triple-checked your vac hoses and there are no vac leaks, you prolly have some tiny piece of s***e blocking the idle circuit ... which means taking the carb back apart and blowing the circuits out with compressed air or the nozzle of carb cleaner. It happened to me.

In a past thread, Jim mentioned a method to possibly dislodge said particle, but I can't find the posting. You might try searching under Jim's moniker and some carb-related keywords, but you're prolly gonna get 8x10 to the 100th power hits.

:meh:
 
so how did you set up the carb after you rebuilt it? I usually set the idle mixture screw turned out from seated 1 1/2 to two turns. and the idle speed screw should be engaged with the throttle plate linkage.

The idle mixture screw was 2 turns out. I don't know what the idle speed screw setting is. If I screw it in all the way, how far back out should I take it?

also check to make sure the gasoline level is 1/2 way up the sight glass. If your float is set too high you could be flooding the carb at idle.

I think you're on to something there -- I checked the fuel level tonight and it's just about to the top of the glass. That's too high, obviously, but does that sound so high that it's drowning it?
 
I'm not sure about the idle speed screw, but I wouldn't start with it screwed all the way in. I usually don't mess with this screw when I'm rebuilding the carb. I would start with the screw just touching the throttle plate linkage, then maybe turn it in one to one and one half full turns.

You should re-adjust your float to get the gas back to the middle of the sight glass.
 
For base idle speed adjustment:
back speed screw out until throttle blade closes fully.
turn screw in until plate is 1/2way up the idle transfer slot.
final adjust on engine at operating temp.

Base idle mix adjust:
turn screw all the way in (gently).
back screw out 4 full turns.
final adjust on engine at operating temp.
 
Jumping in.

Howdy, first post here. Great forum. Great thread. In the middle of teardown on my 86'60 carb and have one show and one tell item. Hopefully I can get the pics posted correctly.
Wanted to show a flub in the bowl cover gasket. I presume during assembly at the factory. Nevertheless, seemed to run fine from '01 when I bought it to '04 when I parked it.
And I'm hoping someone can tell me how best to remove this stuck jet in the 2nd pic. Confident I have the right size flathead but the thing won't budge. Has been well saturated with WD. I'm starting to round out the slot now. I think it's the last thing keeping the body and base together. The keyster kit I bought from Cruiser Outfitters does not include a replacement.
Thanks in advance. (Hope it's not improper to jump in here vs start a new thread.)
bowl gasket.webp
stuck jet.webp
 
Welcome to the forum, WD40 is the most useless thing ever made...get some PB Blaster or Kroil. Soak it and tap it a little to get some vibration and let it sit.

Best of Luck with this

Dwight
 
PB, heat, beat, repeat... nada.

Have kept it sprayed with PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench for 24 hrs. Have put heat to the cast iron surround and used an impact driver on it. Will not budge. I'll keep trying that for a few days hoping patience will set it free. Other ideas are welcomed.

I know I'll need to replace that jet after it does come out. Anyone know where I might find one?
 
It is not a jet. It is a rifle drilled machine screw that conducts vacuum up to the top of the carb.

They always come out with the hand impact driver. If it is totally stuck, then drill the head off and get another screw for reassembly.
 
So, 2buck, did you get the carb working correctly? Interested in hearing the final verdict.
 
It finally busted loose with the hand impact driver. Thanks Jim C.
Dealer tells me it is obsolete, no replacement available. Does anyone know another source?
I've cleaned up some of the burrs and suppose it will tighten ok as-is. But, I should probably replace it if possible.
out.webp
 
and that is the very reason this forum is worth having a silver star.

Dwight
 
Thanks JimC. I just sent you a couple of emails from the site here. At least I think I did. Just discovered I need a secondary diaphragm as well. Found a listing for BWD (Borg Warner?) on OReilly's website but apparently they can't get them. Their p/n listed is 641668A. This may also be the BWD p/n.
I'm on hold w/dealership parts dept and will keep looking online.
If you have access to a diaphragm, I'd be interested.
 
I got a secondary diaphragm from NAPA online, it came in in about 2 weeks and looked to be a quality item. But if Jim can supply you ....you can be sure of quality and fit.

Dwight
 
slow jets & power valve assy

Thanks P re: NAPA. I'll be in touch with JimC as primary source.

I've started reassembling the innards in the mean time. The two slow jets are numbered 90 (or 06) and 65 which would make me think they are different. However, I've found nothing saying which goes back in which hole and, unfortunately, I didn't make that note during disassembly. Anyone know?

The odd piece out in the pic, the power valve assy, should I be able to see through the hole in it? Kit did not include a replacement and I want to make sure it's functional. Any ideas how to test this one?
slow jets & pwr valve assy.webp
 
Ok, have blown out the PV. A few un-ID'd parts in the pic. Any ideas?

A- packaged in the kit with main jet gaskets; one of a kind. very loose fit if it's supposed to go under the PV. I don't think there was one under the PV at disassembly but could be wrong.

B- packaged with the bowl gasket; there are two here, smaller one nested inside the larger. smaller one might be replacement for the solenoid? larger one, no idea.

C- c-clip found in the work area; possibly from disassembly. possibly for the linkage but most there are cotter pins.

D- definitely from disassembly; looks like a basic washer, one of a kind.

And three ?s:
1. Does the small bb go under the pump plunger and the large bb under the pump check spring? Just want to confirm the earlier posting: "small ball, big hole".
2. Are the venturi different from each other (pri/sec) or the same and interchangeable?
3. Is the smaller jet the one marked '65' and the primary side the one near the pump plunger "big" hole? Sorry, I don't know jack.
misc pts.webp
 
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