truck vibrates at 35 mph in two wheel drive, but not in 4x4? (3 Viewers)

[toy_tek]

All good suggestions above.

Based on your comment about feeling it in the brake pedal - Jack up the rear axle and make sure your wheels spin freely. If they have drag and don’t spin freely - it’s possible the shoes were not adjusted correctly (meaning they contact the drums when no brake pedal is applied) and they’ll warp the drums - that can feel like excessive vibration at speed.

 

[Longhauler]

All good suggestions above.

Based on your comment about feeling it in the brake pedal - Jack up the rear axle and make sure your wheels spin freely. If they have drag and don’t spin freely - it’s possible the shoes were not adjusted correctly (meaning they contact the drums when no brake pedal is applied) and they’ll warp the drums - that can feel like excessive vibration at speed.

Interesting you mention that, the vibration doesn’t start at the beginning of the drive, but after having driven awhile, thank you.

 

[Mace]

Interesting you mention that, the vibration doesn’t start at the beginning of the drive, but after having driven awhile, thank you.

If the brake master has been replaced, the booster dowel length needs to be verified. If it's too long, it can continually apply the brakes, heating them up. Over time while parked, this pressure can self relieve.

 

[Mark W]

Fix your "frozen" locking hub.

I'm gonna guess that your front driveshaft is still turning when you are in 2wd and that you have slightly loose ujoints (worn). With no load on the shaft this is allowing vibrations that are not present when there is load on the shaft (and through the ujoints).

Mark...

 

[Longhauler]

Thank you all for the suggestions. Just had an opportunity to break into the hub this morning, corrosion locked the control hub to the hub, new Aisin on hub on the way.

 

[Dekeman]

Assume you are changing both since the other will likely be heading for the exists soon enough. This tends to be the classic "while in there" job, with bearings, seals, rotors and brake pads and calipers all getting replaced if they haven't been touched in years. All fairly straight forward fixes and a mighty fine feeling when they're all done with new OEM parts.

 

[Longhauler]

Assume you are changing both since the other will likely be heading for the exists soon enough. This tends to be the classic "while in there" job, with bearings, seals, rotors and brake pads and calipers all getting replaced if they haven't been touched in years. All fairly straight forward fixes and a mighty fine feeling when they're all done with new OEM parts.

All of those were replaced 18 months ago. Also found my emergency brake line was sticking. This plus the left emergency pivot point at the drum was stuck again (cleaned both of them two years ago.) hanging up the left drum, possibly causing the wobble at 35 plus.