Tutorial: removing the viscous coupler (photos)

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Page TR-29 in the FSM provided by Birmark here on 'Mud. Shows a separator between the coupler and the oil pump plate. And thanks I'm gonna run to sears in the morning and get a pair.
 
So I just got this thing pulled out. Now I have to figure out how to get that metal oil seal to stay put while I put it all back together. Any word on that separator? I guess it really doesn't matter either way now that I look at it.
 
Oh and another question, what's the torque on these bolts, I'm having a hard time finding it in the FSM
 
MikePL said:
17. Fill with gear oil. You will have to use your intelligence here, as it is not so easy to fit a bottle over that hole. Use a special syringe or some other method. Feel free to experiment.
Click to expand...

I guess I lack intelligence, but hopefully the gear oil seeping into my eyes sockets and penetrating the brain cavity will help lubricate the thinker.

I'm finding almost 3qts to be required, but I swear Robbie told me it'd only add a 1/2qt.

Anyone confirm the fill requirement with VC removed?



image-2460168820.jpg
image-2460168820.jpg
 
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I took my new to me 96 80 wheeling this past weekend and lost my rear drive... The front drive seems to work fine after driving home 60 miles on the front...

From what info i can find and understand :hhmm: i'm thinking viscous coupling has gone bad... Will i need to source another tcase or will removing the VC possibly fix my problem?

thanks for any info you guys can provide...

:cheers:
 
Performance Off road After Removing Viscous Coupler

Does anyone have feedback with performance offroad after removing the VC? I read through the post and alot of people reported their on road performance, but I would like to hear what happened when the rig was taken off road. How did it do on rocks/boulders, in sand or snow... or Mud? Let's hear some feedback, were the results positive or negative? :cheers:
 
Well, as soon as you lock the center diff. the VC is irrelevant, so... :meh:
 
Agreed, if mine ever goes it's coming out.
 
Mine was seized when I bought my 96. I took it out and the only thing I noticed was when I came of the gas (rolling to a red) and got back on the gas (light turns green before stopping) my driveline would have some slack in it. Off road there was 0 difference. CDL took care of everything.

Fat-fingered on my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Thanks for the detailed writeup! I completed this task on my 93 in just under 5 hours. I acquired this LC back in September and had not driven it on the road since installing a front DS until this week. I did the one wheel in the air test and it failed. The PO said he purchased the LC minus a front DS and drove it that way for the 5 years he owned it. Now I know why. The VC delete was a cheap fix.
 
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Delancy said:
Have a good one I'll send for shipping cost to anyone whose on the fence.
Click to expand...


I might take you up on that. I was ordering an axle rebuild kit from Kurt and wanted to ditch my super winch manual hubs. He said I'd better check first and here is what I've found


With one wheel off the ground on any corner, TC in N and Trans in N
none will spin but a few inches either way. The same result with the any combination of the TC in N or HI and the Trans in PK or N.


Take one axle off the ground and the tire moves in either direction and the opposite side moves in the opposite direction, this is the same for either axle and again any combination of the TC in N or HI and Trans in PK or N.


Now I'm really confused, I'm thinking a PT kit in the CD.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=xpjiLxgKONA
 
warezdog said:
With one wheel off the ground on any corner, TC in N and Trans in N none will spin but a few inches either way. The same result with the any combination of the TC in N or HI and the Trans in PK or N. Take one axle off the ground and the tire moves in either direction and the opposite side moves in the opposite direction, this is the same for either axle and again any combination of the TC in N or HI and Trans in PK or N. Now I'm really confused, I'm thinking a PT kit in the CD. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=xpjiLxgKONA
Click to expand...
Looks like your VC is seized. Note in your video the DS is not rotating. Wheels rotating in different directions on the same axle is normal when the input of a diff is prevented from rotating. I experienced the same scenario and removing the VC fixed it. Only thing invested was time, thread lock, gasket maker and some 80w90. Sent from Goshenite's iPhone using IH8MUD
 
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If a part time kit was installed with the front manual hubs would it exhibit the same behavior? Looks like I'm going to have to take a look in the TC to see for sure either way.
 
If you install the PT kit, you have to remove the VC.
 
VC was there so I removed it, now the one up tire test functions as it should, next stop will be looking at a part time kit.
 
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