Turn signal switch re build kit? (1 Viewer)

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You may want to remove the cancellation pin. It has a tendency to lock the steering wheel mid-turn as you drive. There are a lot of threads on here regarding the safety hazard it creates. I think Mark (@65swb45) has posted several times on the issue in the past.

My all original 35k mile LC only came one that I removed. But if you're wanting another one I think @Birdhead has a few in his stash.
 
Or you could get the one @ToyotaMatt sells with the plug on it.



- Taking a brand new TOYOTA Genuine Part and chopping up and hacking off the existing bullet connectors like mr @locklaw suggests is a hack's technique , and Poor choice advice from a amature-hour point of view .....:rolleyes:


- infact ! , a few Land Cruiser parts vendors out there , actually offer a kit of sorts , that includes .25 cent gum-ball machine hand full of K-MART china blue and plastic crimp bullets meant for a USA type trailer plug and say that is the only way , and there suggest way ?

- that's totally Laughable , and also a stark reminder that ANY suggestion or advice to modify a new or pre-owned Land Cruiser part to fit or work another modle year , just like this topic here , should be well thought out and carefully planned for in every single way .....

- can things like modding a different land cruiser part to work on a older or newer modle ? Heck Yea it can ......

- but the Vigilant R+D prior to such a adventure , makes it so very very rewarding when it does install work as you plan and preform


- skip the the above sound common sense words of wisdom i share above , you will pay the piper in the end , cheating fate only lasts so long , and
when chopping and cutting wires is a suggested path , perhaps other opinions should be sought out for good measure , and piece of mind sake ...



.

here is a + $61 DOLLARS example of my .25 cent Gumb Ball machine reference above 🤣
1695544385637.png

 
Has anyone else replaced theirs, using this switch?
Is anyone still reading this?
I’m having issues.
.
Out of the switch I’ve got :
A shorter GY wire, and a longer GY wire
A shorter GO wire and longer GO wire
.
Out of the body harness I’ve got:
A GY wire with a double female connector
A GO wire with a double female connector
.
From the indicator lights I’ve got a GY paired with a GO.
.
The indicator wires seem to connect backwards from their color/diagram when I do them color for color.
The brake pedal causes an indicator light to come on.
.
Does anyone know what wires from the switch (long or short) connect to the double or single connector in the body?
I think I’ve tried all the possibilities but my brain is working overtime and not very good to begin with.

IMG_8263.jpeg
 
Has anyone else replaced theirs, using this switch?
Is anyone still reading this?
I’m having issues.
.
Out of the switch I’ve got :
A shorter GY wire, and a longer GY wire
A shorter GO wire and longer GO wire
.
Out of the body harness I’ve got:
A GY wire with a double female connector
A GO wire with a double female connector
.
From the indicator lights I’ve got a GY paired with a GO.
.
The indicator wires seem to connect backwards from their color/diagram when I do them color for color.
The brake pedal causes an indicator light to come on.
.
Does anyone know what wires from the switch (long or short) connect to the double or single connector in the body?
I think I’ve tried all the possibilities but my brain is working overtime and not very good to begin with.

View attachment 3444941
I can go check in a couple hours on my 65.
 
I’ve gotten them kind of sorted.
The dash lights are still backwards but the right side (front and rear) blinks (no dash light, but I know it works because when I hook them up ‘correct’, it comes on with the left side).
The left side stays on but all the lights come on.
The flashers don’t work anymore, after replacing the turn signal switch (they did prior but I don’t think both the dash lights did).
The dash lights no longer come on with the brake pedal.
According to my meter, each pair of switch wires put out 12 volts when told to (left or right).
Right now I have:
Each long switch wire (GY, GO) going to its respective single connector at the body.
Each short switch wire (GY, GO) going to its respective double connector, with the (swapped) dash light wires coming back out.
 
Not sure if this is helpful. They are like you said. Long goes to single terminal. Short to the double. You can see the dash bulb indicator wires going to their respective double connectors as well:
IMG_5398.jpeg
 
Also, I’m glad I checked this area because I noticed this super frayed wire up there as well. :doh:
IMG_5397.jpeg


Edit: happy to report it’s not live under any scenario. So must have been bypassed at some point. Not sure what it was hooked to originally, but happy it’s dead.
 
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