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All four of my water pump nuts went a little round and one of the studs broke, so be prepared
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I was just thinking about cutting a hole in the area behind the turn signal, so I could route it through there, I am already cutting a 3.75" hole there for an intercooler pipe so I will probably just make another cut and see if you guys do anything Thanks!
All four of my water pump nuts went a little round and one of the studs broke, so be prepared
Yeah, go for it. If you're keeping the shape of the stock turn signal, it should be easy enough to re-arrange the sheet metal behind. I just googled side marker blinker conversions and it looks easy enough (I'm the type of guy who's scared by anything electrical), so maybe we'll do the blinker duct after all.
Ordered some of these to vent out the intercooler through the hood:
Pair of Angled 11 Louvered panels 4" - Rod Louvers and Sheet Metal design
In wrapping my head around the ducting scheme, I've come to wish I had taken a fluid dynamics class in college.
Finally got the gauges hooked up. A/F seems to settle in around 11.4 during acceleration (which I think is good?) with an momentary (like half a second) spike to 13/14 when the truck shifts. Boost is 5psi even. Positive pressure starts to come on between 1,900 and 2,700 depending on the conditions, with full 5psi anywhere from 2,400 to 3,000+ depending on how I apply the throttle, what gear I'm in, etc etc.
So this is good. Confirms to me that things are working well. Now all I gotta do is get some air through that intercooler and all will be right with the world Then on to dyno testing (it's still a ways off, I'm sure).
I also developed a new exhaust leak and cant tell quite where it's coming from, but it makes a crazy screaming noise, so I suspect either in the DP or the WG area. My whole exhaust is in shambles due to rust. I have a full bosal replacement sitting in the garage, but the pipe diameter appears to be smaller than stock. I'm awefully tempted to just make a full 3" exhaust, but the "truck situation" is starting to create some tension in my marriage
gratuitous cupholder shot:
View attachment 1300961
Finally got the gauges hooked up. A/F seems to settle in around 11.4 during acceleration (which I think is good?) with an momentary (like half a second) spike to 13/14 when the truck shifts. Boost is 5psi even. Positive pressure starts to come on between 1,900 and 2,700 depending on the conditions, with full 5psi anywhere from 2,400 to 3,000+ depending on how I apply the throttle, what gear I'm in, etc etc.
Just curious, are you saying this will stay in open loop all the time?Yes all stock engine management, stock injectors and stock fuel pump. We are surfing on the Open Loop control for when the MAF sees a lot of air. In OEM form it would be WOT conditions.
Is MAF temp the same thing as intake air temp (as read on torque app)? If so, it's actually quite cool. Usually less than 20* above outdoor temperature around town and equal to outdoor temperature when I'm cruising above 50 for a minute or more.
My post-gauge test runs were an attempt at WOT, but I'm honestly not sure if I accomplished WOT due to traffic/road conditions. But close. I ran it through second gear and most of the way through 3rd gear before it got very illegal.