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- #301
All four of my water pump nuts went a little round and one of the studs broke, so be prepared 
TurboClunker (a.k.a. cheap-ass slaps a turbo on his LX) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Heckraiser
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- #302
I was just thinking about cutting a hole in the area behind the turn signal, so I could route it through there, I am already cutting a 3.75" hole there for an intercooler pipe so I will probably just make another cut and see if you guys do anything
Yeah, go for it. If you're keeping the shape of the stock turn signal, it should be easy enough to re-arrange the sheet metal behind. I just googled side marker blinker conversions and it looks easy enough (I'm the type of guy who's scared by anything electrical), so maybe we'll do the blinker duct after all.
All four of my water pump nuts went a little round and one of the studs broke, so be prepared
yea im not excited, i just did a complete coolant flush last Friday and the fan clutch should get my coolant system back in top notch order but man i can already tell its going to be a pain in the arse!
Yeah I wouldn't think it is too difficult of a process. I am pretty sure guys on here have done it before. Maybe with the ARB bumper? I can't remember the exact details but can't be too hard for a guy that just setup a turbo from scratch!
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- #305
Ordered some of these to vent out the intercooler through the hood:
Pair of Angled 11 Louvered panels 4" - Rod Louvers and Sheet Metal design
In wrapping my head around the ducting scheme, I've come to wish I had taken a fluid dynamics class in college. A couple thoughts:
1) Should the air exiting the hood (after its already been through the intercooler) be ducted or will just placing some ventilation above the IC be good enough? I have already decided not to duct, but I'm a little curious if it would make a difference
2) How much would it matter if my duct is restricted down to a 4" diameter round dryer duct before expanding again to the 11" x 11" IC core size
3) How much benefit would opening up the blinker hole add? I assume the more air I can squash through this thing, the better. And my lower valence is already pretty fubar, so aside from the asymmetry factor, there's really no harm in cutting a bigger hole
4) There is an AC line that is in the way of what I'm wanting to do. I'm going to try bending it like the one in the engine bay, but it still probably wont be ideal. I'd love to get an AC shop to just completely move it, but that's probably not in my budget.
Pair of Angled 11 Louvered panels 4" - Rod Louvers and Sheet Metal design
In wrapping my head around the ducting scheme, I've come to wish I had taken a fluid dynamics class in college. A couple thoughts:
1) Should the air exiting the hood (after its already been through the intercooler) be ducted or will just placing some ventilation above the IC be good enough? I have already decided not to duct, but I'm a little curious if it would make a difference
2) How much would it matter if my duct is restricted down to a 4" diameter round dryer duct before expanding again to the 11" x 11" IC core size
3) How much benefit would opening up the blinker hole add? I assume the more air I can squash through this thing, the better. And my lower valence is already pretty fubar, so aside from the asymmetry factor, there's really no harm in cutting a bigger hole
4) There is an AC line that is in the way of what I'm wanting to do. I'm going to try bending it like the one in the engine bay, but it still probably wont be ideal. I'd love to get an AC shop to just completely move it, but that's probably not in my budget.
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Ducting through the blinker hole should be quite a lot of air. If I remember correctly the hole is just over 12"x3" that is twice as much air as a 5" tube. So necking down to 4" will back that flow up a little but it is in a high pressure area, the front of the truck is literally ramming air, hence the term ram air for those old 70's intakes. In fact necking down to 4" might be slightly advantageous as you are speeding up the air as you push it through the intercooler.
Ideally you would have some type of blinker hole to 4" round casting, then run a 4" tube up to the IC, and then a 4" tube to intercooler core duct that fit securely to the IC so all of the air had to go through it. At that point just having a few open holes on the hood would be plenty, because the air sitting behind the intercooler would be pushed out but the cold air being rammed in.
Ideally you would have some type of blinker hole to 4" round casting, then run a 4" tube up to the IC, and then a 4" tube to intercooler core duct that fit securely to the IC so all of the air had to go through it. At that point just having a few open holes on the hood would be plenty, because the air sitting behind the intercooler would be pushed out but the cold air being rammed in.
Ordered some of these to vent out the intercooler through the hood:
Pair of Angled 11 Louvered panels 4" - Rod Louvers and Sheet Metal design
In wrapping my head around the ducting scheme, I've come to wish I had taken a fluid dynamics class in college.
You lost me at fluid dynamics course...One of hardest courses I had in engineering. Common sense will get you pretty far, but when it comes to airflow smooth transitions are key. Avoid abrupt changes in direction, but that usually applies to systems where there is a power input efficiency concern. Doubt it is an issue here. My 05 Legacy GT has a ducted intercooler mounted right on top of the engine. That set-up works, but obviously isn't optimal. I had something similar on my 87 Shelby Charger with a Mopar intercooler kit. It was supposed to be a 25 hp increase to the stk non-turbo 2.2 which was rated I think around 145hp. Everything in life is a comprise.
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- #308
Finally got the gauges hooked up. A/F seems to settle in around 11.4 during acceleration (which I think is good?) with an momentary (like half a second) spike to 13/14 when the truck shifts. Boost is 5psi even. Positive pressure starts to come on between 1,900 and 2,700 depending on the conditions, with full 5psi anywhere from 2,400 to 3,000+ depending on how I apply the throttle, what gear I'm in, etc etc.
So this is good. Confirms to me that things are working well. Now all I gotta do is get some air through that intercooler and all will be right with the world Then on to dyno testing (it's still a ways off, I'm sure).
I also developed a new exhaust leak and cant tell quite where it's coming from, but it makes a crazy screaming noise, so I suspect either in the DP or the WG area. My whole exhaust is in shambles due to rust. I have a full bosal replacement sitting in the garage, but the pipe diameter appears to be smaller than stock. I'm awefully tempted to just make a full 3" exhaust, but the "truck situation" is starting to create some tension in my marriage
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So this is good. Confirms to me that things are working well. Now all I gotta do is get some air through that intercooler and all will be right with the world
Then on to dyno testing (it's still a ways off, I'm sure).I also developed a new exhaust leak and cant tell quite where it's coming from, but it makes a crazy screaming noise, so I suspect either in the DP or the WG area. My whole exhaust is in shambles due to rust. I have a full bosal replacement sitting in the garage, but the pipe diameter appears to be smaller than stock. I'm awefully tempted to just make a full 3" exhaust, but the "truck situation" is starting to create some tension in my marriage
gratuitous cupholder shot:
11.4:1 is perfect. The 13/14 during shifts is fine, it is just a no/low load situation. Positive pressure at 1900 is good, just where I wanted it, you should still feel a little below that simply because it comes out of vacuum faster. I fear any earlier than that and you would run into closed loop issues.
5psi is a great place to be especially at altitude, unlike a SC'er a turbo will actually provide absolute pressure. You could ease up just a little (maybe 6-7psi) once you get your intercooler working but I would leave it where it is until then.
If you do go to 3" exhaust I bet you see your boost increase, as well as your spool time decrease so just be aware of that if you are running without an exhaust or after you do a new exhaust. Might just need to loosen up the wastegate if things get to where you are running positive pressure at high AFR's.
5psi is a great place to be especially at altitude, unlike a SC'er a turbo will actually provide absolute pressure. You could ease up just a little (maybe 6-7psi) once you get your intercooler working but I would leave it where it is until then.
If you do go to 3" exhaust I bet you see your boost increase, as well as your spool time decrease so just be aware of that if you are running without an exhaust or after you do a new exhaust. Might just need to loosen up the wastegate if things get to where you are running positive pressure at high AFR's.
Finally got the gauges hooked up. A/F seems to settle in around 11.4 during acceleration (which I think is good?) with an momentary (like half a second) spike to 13/14 when the truck shifts. Boost is 5psi even. Positive pressure starts to come on between 1,900 and 2,700 depending on the conditions, with full 5psi anywhere from 2,400 to 3,000+ depending on how I apply the throttle, what gear I'm in, etc etc.
So this is good. Confirms to me that things are working well. Now all I gotta do is get some air through that intercooler and all will be right with the world
I also developed a new exhaust leak and cant tell quite where it's coming from, but it makes a crazy screaming noise, so I suspect either in the DP or the WG area. My whole exhaust is in shambles due to rust. I have a full bosal replacement sitting in the garage, but the pipe diameter appears to be smaller than stock. I'm awefully tempted to just make a full 3" exhaust, but the "truck situation" is starting to create some tension in my marriage
gratuitous cupholder shot:
View attachment 1300961
Sorry if you've covered this earlier, but are you still using completely stock engine management? What about fuel pump and injectors?
Seems promising, I bet it feels like a whole different animal now vs. stock!
Yes all stock engine management, stock injectors and stock fuel pump. We are surfing on the Open Loop control for when the MAF sees a lot of air. In OEM form it would be WOT conditions.
Thanks. Exploring the limits of the open loop calibration sounds fun!
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Just curious, are you saying this will stay in open loop all the time?
No I am saying that when the boost kicks in it pushes the car into open loop. When he is cruising and not under boost it will be closed loop like normal.
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- #315
Correct. Everything is stock (injectors, fuel pump, MAF, emissions garbage, etc). The only tuning upgrade I did was pony up the dough to fill the tank with 91 octane
:edit: in terms of "feeling like a different animal," I don't think that's really the best way to describe it. It actually feels very much like a stock cruiser just with more top-end power. Top end being a relative term since I usually don't rev too much. The extra power is definitely noticeable and appreciated on the highway, but it's not "knock your socks off" fast or anything. Just putting around town, the turbo barely even gets spinning, so it drives pretty much like a stock cruiser on the way to the grocery store.
Getting my intercooler ventilated will probably make it a little more dramatic. This is totally a back-pocket guestimate, but I would assume there is probably at least 30 crank squirrel power locked away in that hot intercooler. As it is now, the truck is way peppier when it's still cold.
:edit: in terms of "feeling like a different animal," I don't think that's really the best way to describe it. It actually feels very much like a stock cruiser just with more top-end power. Top end being a relative term since I usually don't rev too much. The extra power is definitely noticeable and appreciated on the highway, but it's not "knock your socks off" fast or anything. Just putting around town, the turbo barely even gets spinning, so it drives pretty much like a stock cruiser on the way to the grocery store.
Getting my intercooler ventilated will probably make it a little more dramatic. This is totally a back-pocket guestimate, but I would assume there is probably at least 30 crank squirrel power locked away in that hot intercooler. As it is now, the truck is way peppier when it's still cold.
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Well I would imagine the MAF temp is quite high so the computer is pulling timing. Have you done any WOT runs?
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- #317
Is MAF temp the same thing as intake air temp (as read on torque app)? If so, it's actually quite cool. Usually less than 20* above outdoor temperature around town and equal to outdoor temperature when I'm cruising above 50 for a minute or more.
My post-gauge test runs were an attempt at WOT, but I'm honestly not sure if I accomplished WOT due to traffic/road conditions. But close. I ran it through second gear and most of the way through 3rd gear before it got very illegal.
My post-gauge test runs were an attempt at WOT, but I'm honestly not sure if I accomplished WOT due to traffic/road conditions. But close. I ran it through second gear and most of the way through 3rd gear before it got very illegal.
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
I forget...Are you air-to air or Air-to-water for your IC?
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- #319
It's air-to-air, but there is currently no air moving through it, so it's not really doing anything at the moment.
Oh whoops I forgot you were doing a suck through not a blow through MAF. Yeah you won't see post compressor temps. Any timing reduction would just be from knock, but you would see CEL's if you were getting a lot of knock.
