Builds Troopie build (1 Viewer)

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been considering a flex at the dump but the 1HZ moves so very little ...
do you think it would be neccesary? factory doesn't have one so i am bouncing back and forth on it...
 
been considering a flex at the dump but the 1HZ moves so very little ...
do you think it would be neccesary? factory doesn't have one so i am bouncing back and forth on it...

Stainless is pretty.... Brittle.

I would, have a peek at the stainless flex exhaust | eBay flex joints, I would say to put one near the motor.

I hear the duramx and cummins crowd have problems with exhaust cracking near the front of the vehicle with some aftermaket exhaust systems.

BTW, check out heat shrink for you wire tagging. We use it for busy electrical panels. It costs a few bucks, but you can write on it, then after its on the wire you shrink it tight with a heat gun and it retains the writing but shrinks it down to smaller still legible size. You should be able to buy the white tubing and not fork over $1k+ for the printer, and just write on it. Its also nice to use black shrink and solder your joints as opposed to crimp on end splices, especially to avoid lumps in your wire loom.

Heatshrink - Products Techflex
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Cody, thanks for the link and the idea, i like the white writable shrink wrap.
other than behind the dash and on the female spade clips everything was soldered and shrink wrapped.

still thinking over the flex ...
 
seems most of the quality units are SS webbing with aluminized ends ...
have a call into the local guru to see if he can find quality units with SS ends.
 
The flex is a good idea for the disesels ,its good for the shaking diesel idle as well as engine torque movement
 
i picked one up and it is on its way, i can return it if desired so will post up pics later...
 
Check out Vibrant Performance (I think Mississauga based) for nice SS flex. I used one on mine. Not inexpensive ($65?), but way cheaper than fixing a cracked tube...
 
the fuel tanks are completed and temp installed to check clearences for exhaust routing ...
 
the fuel tanks are completed and temp installed to check clearences for exhaust routing ...
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a bit more of the exhaust completed ...
i couldn't put the flex on the down pipe since i would need a 4" flex and the guru told me they do not work properly and 6" was minimum he recommended.
it will still do the job.
as you can see, the turbo to just past the flex is seperate, then from there to the other side of the PTO drive box is another section, then to the front of the muffler, and the rear from the muffler to the tip is the last section.
the hangers and rear section will be completed tomorrow and then off to the welders.

what do you think? :hhmm:
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not that you expect that .. but with the exhaust that route you are taking space to open and do some repair/maintenance to the t-case without dropping the complete bitch .. maybe bit late but just for simplicity I would like to see some side exhaust just in front of the rear pass side tire ..
 
each section is removable.
turbo to back edge of flex is one section
back edge of flex to LH side of PTO drive box is second section
PTO drive box to muffler is section 3
muffler to tail pipe is section 4
if you take a close look at the pics you can see the couplers already installed...just behind the flex, under the cross member behind the PTO, the rear shot of the muffler all show the couplers...

all sections can be individually removed for any repairs needed.
 
Crushers, if I would have a beard, I would drool all over it when looking at the pics of your rig. Respect, man! I hope to drive a Troop Carrier one day and if it looks just half as good as yours, I would be extremely happy :)
So keep us drooling!
 
Cody,
thanks for the link for the white shrink wrap ... that will come in handy with the e/locker wiring.
cheers
hopefully you will be able to take a look at the troopy and give my your feedback next month...
 
PTO Question

G'day Wayne,

This is truly an extraordinary build! I have a quick question in regard to the PTO winch head. Did you remove the brass bushings prior to powder coating or tape them over? I'm just about to start a rebuild on an old PTO for a HJ47 and are a little worried about damaging them when I go to remove them.

Cheers,

Ben
 
Ben,
thanks for the compliment.
i removed the bushings for the PC, the PC ovens run at 450F and i didn't want to risk any damage due to heat.
i used a socket and a vice to remove them gently, i could have used the press but i feel i have better control with the vice.
 
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