Builds Treebeard (5 Viewers)

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I just dropped the head off at Action Machine in Seattle! I should hear back from them next week. Meanwhile I'm going to get the block nice and clean... how careful do I need to be with it? How bad would it be for pieces of the old gasket to fall into the oil channels? Safe to use simple green and some elbow grease? Right now the block has hyperlube all over it and a piece of plastic covering it, I'm hoping to see very little if any surface rust when I get back to it tonight.
 
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I just dropped the head off at Action Machine in Seattle! I should hear back from them next week. Meanwhile I'm going to get the block nice and clean... how careful do I need to be with it? How bad would it be for pieces of the old gasket to fall into the oil channels? Safe to use simple green and some elbow grease? Right now the block has hyperlube all over it and a piece of plastic covering it, I'm hoping to see very little if any surface rust when I get back to it tonight.
Good news! And it would be very bad to have gasket pieces in the oil galleys...most, if not all are beyond the oil filter. I used a flat razor and carefully scraped the gasket off of and away from each hole opening. Wouldn't hurt to stuff them with a paper towel first. I didn't use chemicals on any of the 6 head jobs I've done, but I'll let someone else say weather or not it's OK to do. Hth
 
Doesn't look too bad at all. I was a bit worried when I saw the pic of the piston with the little divets in the crown, (was thinking a broken ring) but it looks like the blown out gasket metal fire ring did that.
Should clean up fine. As said, stuff rag or shop towel into oil and coolant passages before scraping off old gasket. I've never used any chemicals either, just elbow grease, scraper and scotchbrite pads. I'm sure you could find some good YouTube vids on the subject. Just take your time, it'll be fine!
 
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What do the cylinder wall surfaces look like on the cylinder with the blown gasket fire ring with the pieces missing? (No.3 cylinder, right?).
The pieces should've just been blown out the exhaust valve...but ya never know. If there's no scoring on the cylinder wall I reckon you're fine. Just smooth out the divets on the crown with emery paper, that tiny bit won't affect engine balance or anything. Oh, and the tiny bit of surface rust you have is nothing, just clean 'er up!
 
Thank you all for your reassurance, I was getting ready to be told the engine is a goner. :p A few things...

1) There may already be a small piece of the old head gasket in the oil galley. I'll try to find it and fish it out.
2) Can I rotate the crank to move the pistons? If that's safe to do, how is it done?
3) What supplies should I pick up to properly clean the block and pistons? Right now I'm thinking emery paper, gasket scraper, paper towels, microfiber rags, simple green. What do I use to get that rust off without damaging the cylinder wall?
 
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Thank you all for your reassurance, I was getting ready to be told the engine is a goner. :p A few things...

1) There may already be a small piece of the old head gasket in the oil galley. I'll try to find it and fish it out.
2) Can I rotate the crank to move the pistons? If that's safe to do, how is it done?
3) What supplies should I pick up to properly clean the block and pistons? Right now I'm thinking emery paper, gasket scraper, paper towels, microfiber rags, simple green. What do I use to get that rust off without damaging the cylinder wall?
You're most welcome Nate, gotta love this forum😜

1: Yep, definitely don't want any crap in there.
2: Sure can, perfectly safe. Looks like you still have the ancillaries fitted (p/s pump, alternator, a/c etc.) just put a socket and ratchet on whichever pulley is easiest to get to and turn it over...should be very easy (no head, so no compression-I'm stating the obvious here🤓).
3: Yep, you got it. And some Scotchbrite pads. The rust is only at the top of the cylinders where the rings don't reach, so you won't hurt it. Use fine emery with some oil on it, or a Scotchbrite pad with oil.

Have fun!
 
Couple more ideas here. Your starter will still work if you put the key to start, if you're looking for a way to spin the engine a little bit faster than with the socket. If you take off the distributor you can turn the oil pump with a drill, and maybe you can use the oil itself to flush out the pieces onto the surface of the block deck. Only thing is that would get real messy real fast haha! I would maybe try to see if you can rig up a tiny vacuum that could fit into those channels first
 
Looking much better after an hour with a razor blade and some simple green! Piston 2 is still looking a little sketchy. Any idea why all piston heads are more worn on the driver’s side?

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Looking much better after an hour with a razor blade and some simple green! Piston 2 is still looking a little sketchy. Any idea why all piston heads are more worn on the driver’s side?

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Hmmm....I'm confused now..lol..looking back at the pics, it's No.4 that has the section of blown out fire ring, right? And No. 5 has blown out but is still intact, is this correct?
However, it's No. 2 that has the hammered piston crown, is that correct? But the fire ring looks intact? If so, is the bore of No.2 badly scored, can you take some more pics of No's 2 and 4 cylinder walls please.
 
Hmmm....I'm confused now..lol..looking back at the pics, it's No.4 that has the section of blown out fire ring, right? And No. 5 has blown out but is still intact, is this correct?
However, it's No. 2 that has the hammered piston crown, is that correct? But the fire ring looks intact? If so, is the bore of No.2 badly scored, can you take some more pics of No's 2 and 4 cylinder walls please.

Hah sorry. #1 has the surface rust on the rim, #2 has the severe pitting on the piston head (that’s the one in my previous post), and #4 has a leaky valve. I’ll post better photos of each tomorrow but I’m confident that the cylinder walls are looking good.
 
Was there any chips or pieces missing from the valves on No2 cylinder? Hard to tell from the pics...can you call the machine shop and ask them to check...if they haven't had a good look yet?
You might have to drop the oil pan and remove at least No2 piston...the hammering looks like the damage from a piece of broken ring or valve. It might be a bit more serious than I first thought....it's a bit hard to tell just from pics....but yeah, I think you definitely should pull No2 piston....what do the rest of you Mudders reckon?
 
Hah sorry. #1 has the surface rust on the rim, #2 has the severe pitting on the piston head (that’s the one in my previous post), and #4 has a leaky valve. I’ll post better photos of each tomorrow but I’m confident that the cylinder walls are looking good.
Ok, ok...well, if you're sure the cylinder wall on No2 is good, the hammering damage to the piston crown must be from a chipped valve...or possibly a broken piece of ceramic insulator from the spark plug...I've seen that before, from a Bosch plug...I only ever use NGK..
 
Ok, ok...well, if you're sure the cylinder wall on No2 is good, the hammering damage to the piston crown must be from a chipped valve...or possibly a broken piece of ceramic insulator from the spark plug...I've seen that before, from a Bosch plug...I only ever use NGK..

Here are two opposite sides of the wall on no2

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You may have some broken rings or landings. I had similar scoring to mine and that’s what I found. While your there...
 
Yep...don't like the look of those score marks. Can you wipe all the crap off the cylinder and re-do those last 2 pics mate..
Almost looks like cracks, or could be aluminium transfer from the piston...I only have an iPad, plus I'm half blind🤓😝
 

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