Builds Treebeard (7 Viewers)

[Berry]

With a few hiccups, the drivetrain is out.

Once the head is stripped and clean it's off to the machine shop. The cylinder bores are shiny and bright, no scratches or putting. Was not expecting any issues, but there have been few surprises.

Should rings be a priority? See above for my compression figures.

I'm debating what to do with the transmission. As far as I'm aware, the trans has 330k miles on it. Due for a rebuild? Probably, however I'm dubious if a trans rebuild is something I can handle.

The transfer case definitely needs a rebuild as it leakes like a sieve.

Stopped taking pictures for a here few days. I've been having a terrible time removing the crank pulley nut. Any pointers?

 

[NookShneer]

With a few hiccups, the drivetrain is out.

View attachment 3564335

Once the head is stripped and clean it's off to the machine shop. The cylinder bores are shiny and bright, no scratches or putting. Was not expecting any issues, but there have been few surprises.

View attachment 3564340

View attachment 3564345

Should rings be a priority? See above for my compression figures.

I'm debating what to do with the transmission. As far as I'm aware, the trans has 330k miles on it. Due for a rebuild? Probably, however I'm dubious if a trans rebuild is something I can handle.

The transfer case definitely needs a rebuild as it leakes like a sieve.

Stopped taking pictures for a here few days. I've been having a terrible time removing the crank pulley nut. Any pointers?

I wouldn’t touch the rings. Compression numbers over 120 are pretty solid on these old 2F’s. Slap a Toyota head gasket on it and get the head checked out rebuilt if needed and call it good.

Transmission you can get a used 4 speed for cheap. And if you wanted to put money into a transmission rebuild I would look to possibly do a 5 speed h55 swap vs paying to rebuild what you have.

Transfer case is a doable rebuild for someone with mechanical aptitude. You will need to take parts to a machine shop to have new bearings pressed on/off.

Crank pulley nut is worth an investment in a high torque impact gun. If it is in the vehicle you can put in gear and use a breaker bar and extension. If it is out of the vehicle you’ll have a hard time doing that unless you bolt a long piece of steel/wood to the crank and block it against the ground. Then use the breaker bar and extension.

Milwaukee M18 FUEL 1/2 in High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring (Bare Tool)

Milwaukee M18 FUEL 1/2 in High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring (Bare Tool) - 2967-20

www.acmetools.com

 

[Berry]

Thanks for the advice.

Outside of fresh gaskets, cleaning, and a rebuilt head, my 2F is ready to install. Had The Carburetor Shop of Forest Lake, MN rebuild my carburetor. More to follow on this when it's time to fire the engine. My crank pully is completely seized. Neither an impact driver nor a 4-foot extension managed to break this nut loose. I may admit defeat and forsake replacing the timing cover gasket (which leaks profusely).

My transmission will likely remain the stock H42 as an H55 swap is not in the budget a the moment. Still researching my options here. Additionally, if anyone has a line on a fresh H42 please let me know. Split the transfer case, waiting on the transmission rebuild before reinstalling.

Most of the excitement this week revolved around the trunk sill.

The result of drilling, grinding, and beating 30+ spot welds. Wound up cutting the sides along the existing seam as most of the lateral spot welds are inaccessible. This weekend will involve lots of measuring, hopefully resulting in a tailgate that actually closes.

 

[Berry]

Got the call from my machinist, and the 5th cylinder has a substantial crack. This would probably explain how coolant was winding up in the exhaust with an intact head gasket. If anyone has a lead on a 61040 head, I'll happily buy either built or a core.

@garfieldthecat hooked me up with a rebuilt H42F for the truck, after that arrives I can delve into the transfer case rebuilt and getting the drivetrain back in the truck!

My trunk sill has been cut out and grafted with fresh metal. Seam sealer, primer and paint all went on yesterday. For a first attempt at body work, I'm fairly pleased with the result.

De-gunking the engine bay, frame, and treating rust is also in progress. Treebeard is an extremely solid truck but some trouble spots have been popping up. The forward edge of the drivers door is particularly rotten. The bottom layer of sheet metal is thoroughly rusted and swelling through the upper layer. I ground as much as I dare without ruining the door's integrity, and flooded the space with Ospho. I'm planning on filling this void with rust inhibitor and Bondo. If anyone has a better idea of how to address this, please let me know.

 

[CruiserTrash]

@Berry I’ll probably have a 61040 head for sale in a couple months. I’m about to send a spare 2F off to the machine shop and I’m gonna try to get installed ASAP when it’s back. I’d have the current head magnafluxed first. Not sure if you can wait that long though.

 

[Berry]

@Berry I’ll probably have a 61040 head for sale in a couple months. I’m about to send a spare 2F off to the machine shop and I’m gonna try to get installed ASAP when it’s back. I’d have the current head magnafluxed first. Not sure if you can wait that long though.

I appreciate the offer, but ideally I'd like to have this thing thrown back together by early April. Thank you though!

 

[Berry]

Thank you @garfieldthecat for the awesome H42F, and shout-out to ifixheads.com for finding this crack.

Onto the transfer case. Any additional resources I might need outside of the FSM and YouTube?

 

[Berry]

I've found a welder who claims he may be able to save my head. To be determined. Does anyone have a source for valves and such other than SOR?
S.B. International - Application Look-up - http://sbi-e-catalog.com/Application.aspx?parttype=-%20All%20-&year=1984&make=TOYOTA&model=LAND%20CRUISER&engine=%20%20258%20%20%20%20%20L6,%204227cc,%20(4.2L),%20OHV,%20GAS,%20CARB,%2012%20Valve,%20Vin%20F,%202F

Frame work continues. I degreased, pressure washed, and Ospho'd the entire frame as well as the underside of the body.

I purchased this product for spraying the inside of the frame and any enclosed areas that will not be otherwise protected.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PJDRU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

This product I plan to apply to the frame and underside of the body once they are adequately cleaned and converted.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07575GS27?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

To be brutally honest, this truck either needs a new frame or immediate preservation of what is left. At the moment, I'm opting to wring the most life I can out of the current frame. A few inner wheel wells, cab corners, and cab seams are also beginning to rust through. As far as the cab is concerned, I'll chase out whatever I can with a wire wheel and touch up the paint. It won't look perfect but hopefully the cab will survive.

As far as the frame, how aggressive should I chase rust? Do I wire wheel everything I can see? Or do I scrub, rust convert, and paint as it sits? Any input would be helpful. More pictures momentarily.

 

[fjc-man]

There’s a mud member (@Anthony Miller ) in Sharon, Tn. Who’s selling a 60 frame for a grand.

 

[fjc-man]

News flash! @ceylonfj40nut thought I was looking for a frame. He has a FJ62 frame (beefier) for sale.

 

[Berry]

Good news! My head has been welded, cut down, flame sprayed, new seats pressed, and even passed a pressure test!

Having significantly less fun with these. Have been using 3.5" grinder, 3" grinder, belt grinder, air hammer, hammer, and every four letter work I know. This job sucks. My advice for anyone tackling c-channels, drill out the rivets first, then split with an air chisel.

Some frame patching in the works as well. Pictures after I dress up my booger welds.

 

[Berry]

Any tips on how to remove the pilot bearing race from the output shaft without the pictured SST in step 4?

 

[CruiserTrash]

@batthewmrown and I were rebuilding our transfer cases at about the same time. He rented something like this or this from O'reilly, and I borrowed it from him. Yanked that bearing out in about four seconds. Once you get down to the pilot bearing on the crankshaft of the motor, I used a big ass slide hammer with a hooked end that I filed down a bit to fit. Again, took just a few seconds, maybe two pulls.

Careful getting that new bearing back in. That inner cage is really thin metal that's VERY fragile. Find the exact right socket to use as a driver so it's only applying pressure to the outer slightly less thin metal, a good deadblow or small plastic mallet, and go easy.

 

[Berry]

@batthewmrown and I were rebuilding our transfer cases at about the same time. He rented something like this or this from O'reilly, and I borrowed it from him. Yanked that bearing out in about four seconds. Once you get down to the pilot bearing on the crankshaft of the motor, I used a big ass slide hammer with a hooked end that I filed down a bit to fit. Again, took just a few seconds, maybe two pulls.

Careful getting that new bearing back in. That inner cage is really thin metal that's VERY fragile. Find the exact right socket to use as a driver so it's only applying pressure to the outer slightly less thin metal, a good deadblow or small plastic mallet, and go easy.

@CruiserTrash O'Reilly's slide hammer pilot bearing attachment. Pulled that race out in two blows. Thanks much. More on the transfer case soon...

Wrapped up the frame weld/grind/coat portion of this refresh earlier this week.
- New Trail Tailor C-Channels
- Patched a thin section beneath the rear passenger door
- Frame entirely wire wheeled and ground bare
- POR-15

Trail Tailor C-Channels have perfect fitment. Trimmed up two bolt holes, fit like a dream. Covered as much of the frame as possible with a heavy layer of POR. Set nicely without running (too much). Thankful to be done with the frame. Will coat the underside of the body within the next few days. My goal is to have Treebeard back on the road by May. As soon as valve springs arrive, my head can get reassembled with brand new springs, valves, seats, seals, and head gasket.

 

[Berry]

Rubberized undercoating (RUSFREE 1020F-1) sprayed on the chassis from the firewall back. Quite easy to apply with a cheap Amazon spray gun and 60 PSI.

Ignore the imperfect line, I need to make a second pass here.

Can anyone spot the issue?

Installed the engine/new trans/rebuilt transfer case with a few buddies today, the gantry crane was huge here. I can't imagine the PITA of doing this with an engine hoist.

I'll post pictures later, but the old clutch was SHOT. Same with the throw-out bearing and every oil seal in sight. Resurfaced the flywheel, Cruiser Outfitters clutch and bearing, 'new' H42D, and rebuilt t-case with another Cruiser kit all installed.

My valve springs arrive tomorrow, meaning I SHOULD have all the pieces of this puzzle. Planning on putting the head on tomorrow and any other miscellaneous pieces I have the time for. Thinking I'll be turning over the engine on Friday. Exciting stuff.

 

[Berry]