Right foot on brake pedal, right hand on shifter. Why is it lifted?
Transmission Fluid Exchange Writeup (3 Viewers)
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Right foot on brake pedal, right hand on shifter. Why is it lifted?
The filter in the US spec auto trannys is metal and should be cleaned. I had the Toyota dealer do mine because they had a special price ($100 IIRC) which included the service and all the ATF. Their machine did a "fluid exchange" and I requested that they did not use any harsh cleaners... just do a fluid exchange. I think the A343 holds a total of about 12 qts (dry fill) so that was a pretty good price.
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this was awesome and a piece of cake
Great thread! I'm looking at an aft flush/fill very soon. Had it done at a shop before but gonna do it myself this time.
Just a thought on the flush: Is there a way to energize the trans fluid circulation pump without running the engine? This way one could pump out all the fluid without risking damage to the trans.
jt
Just a thought on the flush: Is there a way to energize the trans fluid circulation pump without running the engine? This way one could pump out all the fluid without risking damage to the trans.
jt
are the transmission cooler hose clamps reusable?
I'm about to do this job and was looking at these clamps and I'm wondering if I can put them back on when I finish the fluid exchange or if I need to get new ones ?
I'm about to do this job and was looking at these clamps and I'm wondering if I can put them back on when I finish the fluid exchange or if I need to get new ones ?
I know the question is old but others might wonder...4 qts is what many say to put back in after a drain and fill - obviously much more for a full exchange. You could put in 3, run the truck around a bit and check and go from there. After I dropped my AT pan for replacement, getting back up to the full line was more in the 5-6 qt range...Tells you there is still quite a bit of fluid sitting in the pan that doesn't drain out when doing just the drain and fill.
I reused mine with no issues....Guess it depends on how good of shape yours are in. Not sure what new clamps would cost to have on hand just in case...
How do you get an accurate reading on your transmission dipstick?
I just did a flush-n-fill & I can't get an accurate reading.
After refilling ATF fluid, I got the level on the dipstick to the cool indicator then drove around a bit & cycled through the gears. I let it sit overnight and the level was well above the hot indication. So I drained out 1.5 qts by about a 0.25 qts at a time with a long interval inbetween each. So I got it back to the cold indication.
I then let it idle for several hours after a head replacement & checked the dip stick before driving it. It read low. So I ended up adding 1.5 qts. It finally leveled off at the cold indication. So I drove it about 30 minutes and got it up to temp, now it reads well below the cold marking!?!? There is no leak anywhere in the transmission or trans cooler system.
How do I get an accurate reading? I get it up to temperature, cycle through every gear with the engine running and then put it in neutral and check the dipstick. Every time that I do this, I get a different reading.
How are you guys getting accurate readings?
I just did a flush-n-fill & I can't get an accurate reading.
After refilling ATF fluid, I got the level on the dipstick to the cool indicator then drove around a bit & cycled through the gears. I let it sit overnight and the level was well above the hot indication. So I drained out 1.5 qts by about a 0.25 qts at a time with a long interval inbetween each. So I got it back to the cold indication.
I then let it idle for several hours after a head replacement & checked the dip stick before driving it. It read low. So I ended up adding 1.5 qts. It finally leveled off at the cold indication. So I drove it about 30 minutes and got it up to temp, now it reads well below the cold marking!?!? There is no leak anywhere in the transmission or trans cooler system.
How do I get an accurate reading? I get it up to temperature, cycle through every gear with the engine running and then put it in neutral and check the dipstick. Every time that I do this, I get a different reading.
How are you guys getting accurate readings?
The cold mark is just there so you can fill enough to drive it without damage and warm it up for the real reading, the full operating temperature measurement is the one we are really interested in.
you could think of the cold mark as step one and the warm mark as step two.
parked idling will not get you there, 30 mins of actual driving should get up to full operating temperature.
you could think of the cold mark as step one and the warm mark as step two.
parked idling will not get you there, 30 mins of actual driving should get up to full operating temperature.
x2
Once at operating temp leave the 80 running, park on a level surface, and check level. If the level is down around the low mark then put in a 1/2 qt, cycle through the gears a few times, then recheck noting how far the fluid moved up the dip stick and adjust the next amount put in based on that. Repeat and check till you get it where you want it.
IIRC, it took 2 maybe 2.5 qts to bring the level up from the bottom of the dipstick to the hot mark after I replaced my AT pan and originally refilled to the cold mark before running the LX around to get it up to operating temp.
I got it up to operating temperature. The hump was hot. I drove it for at least 30 minutes, 20 miles or so at highway and city speeds. I checked it after cycling the gears and it was lower than the cold indication on the dipstick. It was at cold before I drove it. There are no leaks anywhere.
once again... it's all in the details...
this is another issue I've been wondering about...
I think I have mistakenly thought that the 'cold' mark on the stick was for when the engine is not running... now I'm thinking the 'cold' mark is for when the engine is running but nothing is warmed up yet ? right or wrong?
SCarolinaFZJ80 is saying the level was at cold before driving and getting up to temp.. then lower after driving around ...
ok.. so the question is was it 'at cold' on stick when not even running or running but just started up from a cold state.. been sitting a while?
I'm curious because I'm no expert but just trying to learn... I'm thinking the level will be higher if the engine isn't running and the ATF has drained back down into the pan ??? then after you start it up and it starts to pump the fluid around, then the level will be lower because not as much is in the pan??? right? wrong?
then after it gets up to operating temp. would it be even lower or higher on the stick ?
if you are doing this fluid exchange and starting and stopping the engine while cycling the ATF through, I'm guessing, based on what's been said here, it's not going to get up to temp to read accurately so ....
after finishing the exchange... and trying to make sure you're putting enough back in there... where should the level be on the stick when it's not running ? at 'cold' or should it be running and at 'cold' ? is there no point in trying to gauge the level when it's not running? I just don't want to go driving around for 30 min not having enough fluid in there while trying to get it up to temp.
this is another issue I've been wondering about...
I think I have mistakenly thought that the 'cold' mark on the stick was for when the engine is not running... now I'm thinking the 'cold' mark is for when the engine is running but nothing is warmed up yet ? right or wrong?
SCarolinaFZJ80 is saying the level was at cold before driving and getting up to temp.. then lower after driving around ...
ok.. so the question is was it 'at cold' on stick when not even running or running but just started up from a cold state.. been sitting a while?
I'm curious because I'm no expert but just trying to learn... I'm thinking the level will be higher if the engine isn't running and the ATF has drained back down into the pan ??? then after you start it up and it starts to pump the fluid around, then the level will be lower because not as much is in the pan??? right? wrong?
then after it gets up to operating temp. would it be even lower or higher on the stick ?
if you are doing this fluid exchange and starting and stopping the engine while cycling the ATF through, I'm guessing, based on what's been said here, it's not going to get up to temp to read accurately so ....
after finishing the exchange... and trying to make sure you're putting enough back in there... where should the level be on the stick when it's not running ? at 'cold' or should it be running and at 'cold' ? is there no point in trying to gauge the level when it's not running? I just don't want to go driving around for 30 min not having enough fluid in there while trying to get it up to temp.
You cannot use the transmission dip stick to measure transmission fluid level with the engine off.
You of course should not drive for 30 minutes with an unknown level of fluid in the transmission, that is the purpose of the cold marks,
So, if you are starting with a drained pan I would put in 3 quarts or so as not to run the transmission dry, and then start the engine, immediately check the fluid level with the engine running and transmission cold if the fluid level is below the cold mark then add fluid until it reaches the cold marks, you now have enough fluid in the transmission to safely drive it to warm it up, drive it for 30 min or so, if the fluid level is below the hot level with the engine running add more fluid to get it in between the 2 hot notches,
after this if you pull the stick out engine off transmission cold and the level is way up the stick, ignore it, that was operator error. if you start the engine and the level is above the cold marks do not remove fluid, that is not the purpose of those marks, only remove fluid if the level is above the upper hot mark with the transmission at operating temp and the engine is running
here it is per the service manual
yes, thanks for clearing that up!
I've got the exchange done... started the engine.. it was below the cold mark... put another 1/2 qt in and it's now up to the top notch of the cold mark... will drive it a while and check again and see where it's at... thanks.
I've got the exchange done... started the engine.. it was below the cold mark... put another 1/2 qt in and it's now up to the top notch of the cold mark... will drive it a while and check again and see where it's at... thanks.
I just did this again. I put M1 syn in 50,000 miles ago. I did one drain and fill @ 20,000 mailes ago. The old fluid came out looking a little darker red but not by much. It really looked pretty good for its age and the amount of abuse I have fed it.
I ran 14 qts of Royal Purple ATF into it this time. Hopefully it is as good as the M1 was.
FWIW, with the help of my 4 yo son this was easily a sub 1 hour and 1/2
job.
I ran 14 qts of Royal Purple ATF into it this time. Hopefully it is as good as the M1 was.
FWIW, with the help of my 4 yo son this was easily a sub 1 hour and 1/2
job.
Dealership is offering a drain and fill for $110. They are saying all the right things too "you dont want to flush it, you will run into problems. you just want to drain and refill". "we don't use any heavy cleaners on older models"
Is there any reason I should do the service myself?
Is there any reason I should do the service myself?
I would ask what is included in that $110 "Drain and Fill"
A drain and fill is only around 4 quarts of fluid. Even if you are using Synthetic around $10 a quart. That's only $40 to DIY vs their $110.
