if someone could post a few pics, that would be grrrrrrrrrreat!
Transmission Fluid Exchange Writeup (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter snowcruiser
- Start date
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We've beat the engine oil thing to death, but haven't seemed to touch much on the ATF's. What are some quality non-sythetic products. Just want to weigh options since the $120 Amsoil exchange kind hits you in the anus.
Rookie2
Rookie2
Any Major brand Dextron III ATF is fine if you don't want to use Synthetic. Personally, I would just do the drain and refill procedure a couple of times with Synth, and then do the service every 15,000 miles. Then you are only out $40 per pop. FYI, I prefer Redline D4 ATF for trannies over Mobil. Mobil in the Motor, Redline everywhere else.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
snowcruiser said:
Small correction here, the machine does have a pump to pump in the new fluid, however it is low pressure to equal the pressure of the fluid comming out. So you balance the outflow and the inflow so that the tranny never runs dray.
If you were asking shops, they probably call it flush machines. If you asked for a fluid exchange they would not know what you are talking about.
Will changing to syn on a high milage trany cause any problems?
The fluid has been changed at least 3 times in its life.
The fluid has been changed at least 3 times in its life.
johnny4ever
Test appropriately
AT Oil flow to and from A440F
This is how the oil flows in an FJ62 up to 1990 so it will be similar to early FJ80.
The designation of the tranny is A440F. Someone tell me how many years the 3FE was used in the 80 series?
This is how the oil flows in an FJ62 up to 1990 so it will be similar to early FJ80.
The designation of the tranny is A440F. Someone tell me how many years the 3FE was used in the 80 series?
johnny4ever
Test appropriately
johnny4ever
Test appropriately
To explain: You can see that the forward most port is the outflow to radiator.
The rear most is the return. Seems like it would be easiest to tap in to the lines near the tranny pan.
The rear most is the return. Seems like it would be easiest to tap in to the lines near the tranny pan.
This flow direction seems opposite of what I would've expected from Rainy D's explaination. If you pull the top hose and fluid flows out, that would be the supply hose instead of the return. What am I missing here??
Rookie2
Rookie2
ppc
M Go Blue
I would guess residual oil remaining in the line draining as the result of gravity.
johnny4ever
Test appropriately
Rookie 2,
My diagram is for a 62 series 88. Might vary slightly from the later 80 series.
My diagram is for a 62 series 88. Might vary slightly from the later 80 series.
johnny4ever
Test appropriately
Rookie 2,
Also, my diagram includes a non-factory at cooler seperate from the radiator.
sorry
Maybe I should have just kept my nose out of the 80series tech.
Also, my diagram includes a non-factory at cooler seperate from the radiator.
sorry
Maybe I should have just kept my nose out of the 80series tech.
To clarify the direction of flow.
From the automatic transmission cooler, the top port radiator side is the outflow. So pull the top hose, let it dangle (point to bucket to be safe). Stick a length of hose on top port of radiator and route to bucket. ATF will flow.
From the automatic transmission cooler, the top port radiator side is the outflow. So pull the top hose, let it dangle (point to bucket to be safe). Stick a length of hose on top port of radiator and route to bucket. ATF will flow.
Pics of tranny cooler and which hose to pull.
Drain the pan, then fill it up. 6quarts.
Pull the top port and hook up a hose (I used that clear one), route them both to the bucket. I used that slick funnel ($6 at schuck's) to fill it while I ran the car with the tranny in park. The ATF flowed faster than I could fill it with my funnel. Had to stop the car several times to make sure I didn't run it dry. Ran 12 more quarts through for a total of 18.
Drain the pan, then fill it up. 6quarts.
Pull the top port and hook up a hose (I used that clear one), route them both to the bucket. I used that slick funnel ($6 at schuck's) to fill it while I ran the car with the tranny in park. The ATF flowed faster than I could fill it with my funnel. Had to stop the car several times to make sure I didn't run it dry. Ran 12 more quarts through for a total of 18.
general question:
what is best:
- change the fluid all at once after an extended period - say 15k or 30K. Very good fluid at first, maybe spent at the end
or
- drain and fill with 4 quarts every oil change or every other one. Then additives replenished regularly, sort of middle of the road all the time, qualitywise
?
e
what is best:
- change the fluid all at once after an extended period - say 15k or 30K. Very good fluid at first, maybe spent at the end
or
- drain and fill with 4 quarts every oil change or every other one. Then additives replenished regularly, sort of middle of the road all the time, qualitywise
?
e
e9999 said:
That is the method i am trying. One thing, maybe it's normal, but when i changed out the fluid i noticed only a slight smoother shifting sequence. My truck has always shifted firmer than i would like. I am curious as to why the new syn mobil 1 fluid hasn't smoothed it out? Anyone else with a really firm shift?
This was so easy, I am just going to do this every 30k or so. It really didn't take too long at all. Hardest part was unbolting the radiator because I couldn't get to the hose clamp. Now I can get it from the front, so I don't have to pull it next time. You can do this in 30mins. Probably less with a helper.
yes, but you also spent over $100 in fluid. That hurts some of our less than deep pockets.
WTF??? I spent $18 in fluid. Bought two cases of chevron ATF Dextron III from Costco at just about a dollar a quart. Fine add tax and we are right about $20. About the price of an oil change these days (that is $1.50/quart *8 = $12 + toyota filter at around $6. = $18.
Now the real wallet pain will be the radiator flsuh with the fancy toyota red stuff.
Now the real wallet pain will be the radiator flsuh with the fancy toyota red stuff.
Ok I'm getting ready to do this PM. It does concern me to let the pump run dry so if I use the hose method, I'll make sure I stop the engine before it runs dry from the hose output. Question is -
Doesn't the host method create a mixing effect just like the drain plug and refill method?
If YES both causing mixing of new ATF and old then isn't less risk to the pump to just pull the drain plug and refill a few times?
Also if any of the bits in the tranny run dry I would think it might cause something to stick ect....
Also giving you are starting and stop the motor all the time, isn't hard to see if you have added the correct amount of fluid (not over/under fill)?
I think I'll just use regular Dex III ATF.
Doesn't the host method create a mixing effect just like the drain plug and refill method?
If YES both causing mixing of new ATF and old then isn't less risk to the pump to just pull the drain plug and refill a few times?
Also if any of the bits in the tranny run dry I would think it might cause something to stick ect....
Also giving you are starting and stop the motor all the time, isn't hard to see if you have added the correct amount of fluid (not over/under fill)?
I think I'll just use regular Dex III ATF.
