Transmission Fluid Exchange Writeup (1 Viewer)

[OUbobcat20]

I would ask what is included in that $110 "Drain and Fill"

A drain and fill is only around 4 quarts of fluid. Even if you are using Synthetic around $10 a quart. That's only $40 to DIY vs their $110.

That's why im on these forums. I confirmed with a dealership that a drain and fill is only for whatever was in the tranny fluid pan (4 quarts). I bought a gallon at autozone for $19.99 and did it myself. I'll continue to drain and fill over the next couple thousand miles to get the old stuff completely out.

Good looking out @mod5csi

 

[littlehandegan]

Just to clear it up. 3/8 or 3/4 line to run into the bucket?

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

3/8"

 

[DARKNESS]

Well, I started off doing drain and fills, but wound up doing the cooler line method. So much easier. It is difficult to keep up adding fluid, but if you stop regularly it's not a problem.

 

[LCRyGuy]

One other reason to consider this process over multiple drain and flushes is the actual cleaning efficiency and total cost (and time!). Using a standard concentration calculation shows that for the 12.6 qt capacity transmission and assuming a 4qt drain and flush, it'd take 6 drain-and-fills to get ~90% clean (24 qts and say performing this process every other month). 8 drain & fills gets ~95% clean. Of course this assumes complete mixing of the fluid after the drain and flushes...

 

[aae42]

anybody know how much ATF it would take to go from cool line while hot to hot line while hot?

 

[Sharky1528]

Tag This .....

 

[NLXTACY]

I need to do this but I also need to do the TransGo upgrade.

Here's what I'm going to do:
* 10 quarts of Redline ATF (final)
* 10 quarts of Chevron ATF (primary)
* drain transmission first
* do the TransGo kit
* bolt everything up
* pour in 6 quarts of Chevron
* pull cooler line into bucket
* start and run til sputter, turn off motor
* fill with remaining Chevron
* cycle transmission gears
* start, drain, shut off
* 4 quarts of Redline add
* start, drain, shut off
* pour remaining 6 quarts of Redline
* check dipstick

 

[TomOsborne]

Hello 80 family. My transmission has slowly developed a slip for lack of a better word. Its not slipping under load, just when I first start it in the morning or after work. Put in gear, drive, and when I first brake (like at the end of the driveway) it gets out of gear until I rev the motor a little then its fine. Might happen one more time if I brake for a squirrel, than fine again. Last week drained and filled the transfer case, and I'm about to either do, a) a complete flush or b)a drain and fill. Fluid is dark/burnt. No leaks. If anyone has had a similar hitch in their transmission let me know, and what you did to correct it. Ill take pictures of the fluid in a clear bottle. Have a great Saturday yall. Thanks.

 

[Red Merle]

Just did this today following the instructions on the first page. I used some stuff called Farm Rated ATF that says it meets all requirements for pretty much most older cars and truck, especially the DEXRON stuff our manuals tell us to buy. A five gallon pail was $50 and I bought another gallon to run through the power steering system.

Very good instructions. I was happy to note that I couldn't find any shavings and nothing smelled burned. It was pretty dirty though. Seeing the new, bright red, fluid come through was very satisfying. Tranny still shifts very smooth but I am pretty sure I had mostly original fluid in there. The PO gave me a few receipts that mentioned adding a quart or two over the course of several years, which does seem to correspond with the weeping I get on the main seal between tranny and motor. Not bad for 255,000 miles.

This is really a 1 job that everyone ought to consider doing this spring.

 

[ToyotaTruck]

I also just finished doing this on my 97 LC. This was one of the last things I needed to do since purchasing the vehicle last year.

I did have to unbolt the tranny cooler in order to get to the clamp but that wasn't too bad. I drained about 7 quarts from the pan (including the filter), removed all the gunk at the bottom of the pan, cleaned the magnets, replaced the filter, used Toyota oil pan gasket fipg silicone (double bead on the pan), and slapped that all together before tackling the flush portion. I did run out of new fluid around 12 quarts, however, as the old atf jetted out in a matter of a minute or so. I think at least 80-90% has been flushed out. I used 12 quarts total in the process making sure to carefully note how much drained out.


175,000 miles and I am pretty sure this was all original fluid and had never been flushed or the filter replaced. Glad I did this and thanks everyone for the information on this site.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I just did the filter change and fluid flush for a second time since 2009 using the Napa filter and gasket.

I have drained and refilled the pan several times in between though and changed the filter in 2011 after towing a trailer across the continent.

I have only driven it about 40,000 miles since my first filter change and flush in 2009.

The pan was pretty clean, just a bit of ashy type residue that wiped up easily. All 4 magnets were free of any metal shavings.

I drained approx. 6 Qts from the pan and filter. Then filled it back with 4qt. Then I ran another 12 Qts through the system at 2qt intervals until the fluid was consistently clean and new. I used the method described back on page 2 of this thread and hooked up a 3/8"ID clear tube to the top left port of the factory aux trans cooler. Fluid came out a bit dark but overall not as dark as the last time I did it.

Good PM for those that want to drive these for a bit longer.

 

[WJR]

I took my LC with 246K on the clock to my local dealer yesterday to look at an oil leak. While I had it there, I asked about changing the transmission fluid. They recommended not changing it and said with such high mileage it could create more problems than it would solve.

Can someone help me with this logic?

Thank you,

WJR

 

[edwards_rljr]

1st off, I want to say that I'm not a professional mechanic and am no expert on this stuff but , for one thing, you're talking about a "stealership". Now, I have no doubt there are some really good mechanics and very knowledgeable people that work at stealerships, but I've talked to some real idiots that work at auto shops too. The fact remains that you are going to pay through the nose for anything and everything done by the "professionals" and there is no guarantee that you are going to get the best job done.

That being said, their idea of changing the tranny fluid is probably to use one of those fancy flushing machines. I've read many times that those flushing machines can flush debris from the pan back up into your tranny parts and cause major problems. I'm guessing that is what this guy was referring to and that is why he advised against it.

The method for changing your transmission fluid that is described in this thread is a lot more work than using one of those machines and I doubt that any stealership wants to go through all this work, especially if you were asking them to remove the pan and change the filter as well. Taking the pan off is a real pain if it's never been removed before. They want to do the fastest and easiest thing they can do, and charge as much money as they can.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[WJR]

Thank you, edwards_rljr, that makes good sense to me.

WJR

 

[Ppleasants]

A little thread revival here: can anyone post a photo of their transmission dipstick, preferably from a 94 or same transmission?

I completed the flush this morning and want to verify my fluid level but keep showing low (measured hot on level ground with engine running). My dipstick has a few jogs in it at the top and it occurred to me that if these weren’t there, the dipstick would be longer and probably show the appropriate level. I measured accurately the volume of fluid I removed and I replaced it with maybe an additional 3/4qt. If I’m low, I’ve been low..

Hard to see from the photo but the level has fluctuated slightly from a little above cold high to somewhere between hot and cold. I don’t want to overfill

 

[Ppleasants]

Any input here?

Hot readings were unclear and inconsistent over the weekend - bouncing between cold and somewhere in the middle of hot and cold. A cold reading last night after sitting for 10 hours or so in 30deg weather showed a level approaching the low end of the hot scale.

I tried the proper procedure today (operating temps after 20-minutes of driving and specifically shifting through PRND2L once stationary) and got a clear low reading (pictured).

Can I trust this latest reading? Can anybody verify that the jog in the dipstick is stock? Why are the hot and cold readings contradictory? The truck is shifting smooth and at appropriate times. I just want to make sure that all is correct for the sake of longevity.

 

[BDA130]

Hello friends,

I'm doing a transmission fluid exchange, I don't know the previous maintenance history and used Amsoil's preferred customer program to save 25% on fluid (check their website, 20$/year and you save 25% on purchases).

The PO of my 1991 HDJ81 with hydraulic A442F installed an intercooler and appears to have removed, if there was one, the additional transmission cooler mounted in front of the radiator. The FSM states "Models with an automatic transmission include an automatic transmissions fluid cooler built into the lower tank of the radiator" but I can't find a diagram of in/out lines. Can anyone with this setup ID these lines where the transmission fluid enters/exits the lower radiator? I've tried to trace the lines from the transmission but it gets murky...

FWIW, I'm going to save dropping the pan and changing the filter as I'm looking upgrading the valve body in the coming months and will do it then.

Edit: looks like the same questions was asked here with no results. HDJ81 Transmission cooler inlet/outlet?

This is my best guess...

 

[Don Walker]

Hello friends,

I'm doing a transmission fluid exchange, I don't know the previous maintenance history and used Amsoil's preferred customer program to save 25% on fluid (check their website, 20$/year and you save 25% on purchases).

The PO of my 1991 HDJ81 with hydraulic A442F installed an intercooler and appears to have removed, if there was one, the additional transmission cooler mounted in front of the radiator. The FSM states "Models with an automatic transmission include an automatic transmissions fluid cooler built into the lower tank of the radiator" but I can't find a diagram of in/out lines. Can anyone with this setup ID these lines where the transmission fluid enters/exits the lower radiator? I've tried to trace the lines from the transmission but it gets murky...

FWIW, I'm going to save dropping the pan and changing the filter as I'm looking upgrading the valve body in the coming months and will do it then.

Edit: looks like the same questions was asked here with no results. HDJ81 Transmission cooler inlet/outlet?

View attachment 1646358


This is my best guess...
View attachment 1646409

This was linked earlier in the thread.

The intercooler you have posted is for your intake and unrelated to your transmission cooler

 

[COYS]

Besides the oil itself, what OEM parts do I need for a proper transmission refill? Thanks.