Trailer rack to haul spare tire and generator

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Morning folks,

My teardrop camper has a 2 inch box on the rear, and I'd like to use it to haul my small 50lb generator and spare tire. Would a simple T made out of 2x2 be sufficient? 48 inches wide, and 12 inches long to fit in the receiver. Ive got some ideas for the gen platform. Gen on the driver side, spare on the passenger side. May be enough room to fit my 2.5 gal gas can on the gen side. I've got a dual tube extender to mount my bike rack to.

Would I need to add gussets at all on the tubing? Would a butt joint at the T be strong enough? Or would it be better to set the wide tube on top?

Thanks for any ideas.
 
I have one of those. Thats my plan B. I was looking for a cleaner solution that would allow the bikes to hang down without dorkin whats in the basket
 
I have to say, one thing that pisses me off about any 2" square receiver mounted thing is that it's constantly moving since a 2" hitch rarely fits a 2" receiver without some wiggle.

This thing looks promising for that:
Hitch-Vise Fit Guide for 2 inch factory and aftermarket hitches

Same company that made the 6 bike bike rack I bought - well built, very solid. I don't have one yet, but I had planned on getting one.
 
Trying to follow your design thoughts but one thing to consider is thats lots of leverage if you plan to put bike rack in receiver of "T" then placed in receiver of trailer.

Id not rely on butt joint only for t. Maybe doing a Channel/scab plates that slips over the horizontal tube or better turn 90* up for ~3" which will allow more departure angle and more importantly gussets in the shear direction of concern.

Doni follow correctly t will be just a 2" tube side to side, kinda like a swingout; Mounting your attachments to the bar?

Or more basket style?
We need pics man :)
 
There is an easy way to fab a capture nut in the receiver hitch to prevent wiggle.

As you are fabbing be careful of weight ratio. Too much in the back and bad things happen.

I'll be home in a few days for any welding you need.

Rice
 
Ill tell ya what, I'll bring the trailer to Mac's tomorrow night, and show ya what I'm thinking. I havent sourced any metal yet, which is why I'm askin now.
 
The captured nut with bolt trick was slick to tighten up any play.


Sounds good. Rectangle tube may also help prevent deflection set vertically. Would still utilize gussets.

Yeah yeah i know....... no laughing

IMG_2983.webp
 
There is an easy way to fab a capture nut in the receiver hitch to prevent wiggle.

Do tell, do tell.. I'd like to do this to all my trucks. Boat towing is especially annoying.
 
I actually need a bit of weight on the tail. The tongue box (25 lbs empty) up front has two group 29 batteries (70 lbs a pop) in it, with the charger (12 lbs). The box is supported by some 4 inch channel, with some guessets and a 1x3 rectangle tube gusset between the a frame and main tube. That steel added about 30lbs. Just behind that on the inside of the trailer is the window ac unit (45lbs) and the birch cabinets(prob another 30 lbs).

The gen weighs in at 47 lbs empty, the spare and mount are about 40 lbs, and the bike rack with two bikes would be about 35lbs. Figure 20 lbs of steel and alum on the rear, and i can net out about 125-150 lbs of tongue weight, which would be perfect
 
you're assuming that the weight added to the rear will equally reduce the weight added to the front?

That axle fully centered? Otherwise, it's not a 1:1 ratio as I'm sure you know - the old fat guy on a seesaw thingy?

10.webp
 
It's close enough to center line where I would be in the ball park. I think if i scaled the trailer, ive got to be about 200-225 lbs on the tongue, maybe a touch more.


Ive been the skinny kid on the see saw,and i've been the fat adult on the see saw attempting to launch my kid into orbit ;)
 
Hard to make out all the black in the pic. Had to hurry back for another conf call. Have the dual receiver installed in the supplied 2 inch box on the trailer by the builder. I moved it inbound so it butts up to the factory supplied box. Drilled new hole, and secured with a grade 8 5/8x4 inch bolt with lock washer, installed with my milwaukee 18volt 1/2 inch impact. It doesnt move a bit ;)

Top tube will be for the bolt in bike rack. Bottom tube (which would "normally" connect between the truck and the trailer for towing) is what i'd like to have the T structure. It can be tucked up close to the trailer to clear the bike rack. That will also get mounted with a 5/8x4 inch grade 8 bolt. I intend on leaving that on full time. I'd like to have the gen and tire be as close inbound as possible to allow access to the leveling jacks, but spread enough to allow access to mount the bike rack. I've got a bunch of stashed materials that ive been squirreling away that I'll bring for mocking up mounting the gen. but I dont have any of the steel stock yet.

camper rear.webp
 
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I welded a captured nut to hitch extension for my bike rack to prevent the wiggle. It takes a lot more time and effort to remove the hitch but at least the bike doesn't sway and shake like it did before.
 
And for the how to....


Drill a hole in side of receiver.
Weld nut to side centered over hole.
Add bolt to nut so when tightened it presses against slide in draw bar and tightens it up preventing wiggle.

Do tell, do tell.. I'd like to do this to all my trucks. Boat towing is especially annoying.
 
My 4-bike carrier hitch came with the bolt thingy, but only on one side :(
 
my yakima 4 bike hauler came with a bolt, with a nut captured on the inside of the tube. It doesnt wander much at all.
 

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