Trail Tailor rear control arms installed

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Cleric Duran said:
I just got mine today. Can someone explain the adjustment part of the installation?

Thank you!
Click to expand...

Basically when you lift the axle is pushed forward and rolled. You want the rear pinion pointing at the TC pinion with the same offset angles. So by lengthening the lowers you roll the axle and push it back at the same time. The uppers need to be adjusted in relation to the lowers to keep the inline/angle geometry correct.

Most of the time lengthening the lowers around 3/8" is a good starting point.

Just make sure you only remove one arm at a time. I use a floor jack to lift the pinion up or down which will roll the axle forward or back to re-align to install the bolt.
 
@TRAIL TAILOR ... are you going to stock the LCAs in "red" again? Or, just powder coated black?
 
I'm a buyer for both upper and lower sets, but will likely just be budgeting one set at a time. Currently I've got pretty moderate torque steer and some of the same looseness that @kelly saad mentions. @TRAIL TAILOR , would you suggest the lowers first? What additional benefit do the adjustable uppers give? What other symptoms might I be looking for to determine whether or not I'd need one or the other?

Sorry if this is kind of ignorant.
 
MongooseGA said:
I'm a buyer for both upper and lower sets, but will likely just be budgeting one set at a time. Currently I've got pretty moderate torque steer and some of the same looseness that @kelly saad mentions. @TRAIL TAILOR , would you suggest the lowers first? What additional benefit do the adjustable uppers give? What other symptoms might I be looking for to determine whether or not I'd need one or the other?

Sorry if this is kind of ignorant.
Click to expand...

No not at all. IMO, the break point is 2 to 2.5" for the uppers. The TD lifts are on the taller side and I think benefit from the UPPER arms.

I would start with LOWERS first and then add the uppers.

Symptoms--- vibration after lift and/or misaligned pinion angles.
 
Gracias.

I'll likely put my order in next week. Red ones are faster, right? I'll grab those if they're available still.

I'm right at 23.5" in rear right now. Thinking that'd be spec for a set of the uppers down the road a little bit.
 
MongooseGA said:
Gracias.

I'll likely put my order in next week. Red ones are faster, right? I'll grab those if they're available still.

I'm right at 23.5" in rear right now. Thinking that'd be spec for a set of the uppers down the road a little bit.
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I have one set of RED and two sets of BLACK LOWERS on the shelf. PM me if you want to buy. They are not on the website for purchase.

J
 
In the middle of install of these now. I also shot a PM to Jason, just looking for a quick answer.

On the lower arms, the rearward mount (not the JJ), does the greak zerk fitting point up to the body or down to the ground?
 
MongooseGA said:
In the middle of install of these now. I also shot a PM to Jason, just looking for a quick answer.

On the lower arms, the rearward mount (not the JJ), does the greak zerk fitting point up to the body or down to the ground?
Click to expand...

I would think they should be rotated up to protect them from getting ripped off by ledges and rocks. You might have to do what I did with me front UCAs which would be to replace the "vertical" fitting with an elbow 90 degree fitting so you can get the grease gun onto the fitting.
 
geanes said:
I would think they should be rotated up to protect them from getting ripped off by ledges and rocks. You might have to do what I did with me front UCAs which would be to replace the "vertical" fitting with an elbow 90 degree fitting so you can get the grease gun onto the fitting.
Click to expand...

I think I may need to. That, or a different fitting for my grease gun. By the way... I think I may have ended up with your red ones :oops:

Ok here's another question. I measured the new arms to 3/8" longer than the original. I think it came out to like 29 1/4" end to end. I placed the rear mount in first, then the JJ end. Jacking up on the pinion flange in the front of the rear diff moves the JJ further forward, I'm needing it further back. Unless I just way over measured the new arm, what do I need to be doing to bring these holes in line together? Jacking up by the frame on the side I'm working on helps but is still a little short.

20191023_162419_HDR.jpg
 
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@kelly saad I'm about to install the RUCA's myself and had a couple questions: Did you remove the OEM one and use that to measure the length of what the new TT arm should be? I asked you that question earlier in the thread but that was for the RLCA's and didn't know if that 3/8" rule applied to the uppers as well or not. Also, what type of grease did you pump into the zerk on the JJ end, or does it already come with grease in it?
 
TheForger said:
@kelly saad I'm about to install the RUCA's myself and had a couple questions: Did you remove the OEM one and use that to measure the length of what the new TT arm should be? I asked you that question earlier in the thread but that was for the RLCA's and didn't know if that 3/8" rule applied to the uppers as well or not. Also, what type of grease did you pump into the zerk on the JJ end, or does it already come with grease in it?
Click to expand...
Yes, I used the OEM arm, and added 3/8" to the length. Not sure about the grease? I should have thought of that when I installed them. Must have slipped my mind because I was upset after I speared my leg with a sharp, pointed 20 LB rock bar. Took 2 months to heal, giant hole. I don't recommend using rock bars to work on vehicles. :meh:
 
geanes said:
I would think they should be rotated up to protect them from getting ripped off by ledges and rocks. You might have to do what I did with me front UCAs which would be to replace the "vertical" fitting with an elbow 90 degree fitting so you can get the grease gun onto the fitting.
Click to expand...

Just installed this weekend with 45 degree zerks.

1617025886669.png


That gives a straight shot in from the top.


1617025947133.png
 
@TheForger I am using Magnalube-GX (PTFE + Moly) grease in my front UCAs and rear UCA/LCAs. I lube them at each oil change.

I use the Magnalube-G (PTFE) grease for my driveshaft and wheel bearings. I buy direct from the vendor but you may be able to get it through McMaster or Grainger Magnalube-G | magnalube - https://www.magnalube.com/g-product-info

@OwnerCS do you happen to recall what the thread size is for these fittings? That is super smart conversion.
 
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