Toyota OE Remanufactured CV Axle Part Number

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RuskiE39 said:
Axle #2 (continued)

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Lawwwwd have mercy ☠️ These are fn trash!

Can see where the hub flange beat the hell out of the splines on this one:
1D79D8B1-0A54-4E46-8E6D-9D1A0ACA66E7.webp


And this one is atrocious! The splines are knife edges ready to strip and leave you stranded within 5k miles of driving:
5BBE3C0E-1077-4DF0-A8C1-2EA12A7FAC2C.webp


1,000% would not keep either one except maybe as a trail spare to limp you 30 miles home.
 
Another data point, my brother installed remanned Toyota CVs on my old 98 and one of them had a worn out joint, it started making clicking noises from day one!
At this point I'd trust a new aftermarket more than the Toyota remans
 
RuskiE39 said:
Agreed. I can't use one of them anyways because of the damage sustained during shipping...

View attachment 2828647

However, are you sure we should write of this axle? I believe #1.

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My passenger side one is definitely failing and can't be worse off than this one...
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I think that would be a waste of time. I would not install that unless you're stranded and unable to drive with your current.

The thickness of the peak at A should be equal to B. NO visible wear is acceptable. In your pictures here we can see B is far thinner. There's a visible groove where the wear begins (because that's where it mates with the hub flange). When people have complete catastrophic failure of a CV in the 100, it's usually because these splines strip out and grind away OR because the snap ring fails to hold the axle into the hub.

The donor axle for this "reman" may have been removed due to spline play and then left out in a humid environment for a significant period of time before being returned as a core for a new axle. That outer shaft is trash and should not be installed into a vehicle.

1635953460613.png
 
When these first became available this spring, I was tempted, but ended up buying one new and a new outer shaft for my other axle. Looks like I dodged a bullet. I couldn't rectify how they were charging less for a rebuilt axle than they did for just the new outer shaft. Now we know...
 
suprarx7nut said:
I think that would be a waste of time. I would not install that unless you're stranded and unable to drive with your current.

The thickness of the peak at A should be equal to B. NO visible wear is acceptable. In your pictures here we can see B is far thinner. There's a visible groove where the wear begins (because that's where it mates with the hub flange). When people have complete catastrophic failure of a CV in the 100, it's usually because these splines strip out and grind away OR because the snap ring fails to hold the axle into the hub.

The donor axle for this "reman" may have been removed due to spline play and then left out in a humid environment for a significant period of time before being returned as a core for a new axle. That outer shaft is trash and should not be installed into a vehicle.

View attachment 2828841
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation. I bit the bullet last night and ordered a brand new OEM axle to replace the failing passenger side. Will let my bank account recover before doing the driver side but it seems fine currently.

And obviously arranged return for these.

Thanks all.
 
:frown:

I've been wanting to see the Toy remanufactured FDS. I was hopefully they put out a superior product compared to local rebuilder. But I see that's not the case. They're no better, expect maybe the boots that our local rebuilder puts on (junk). In fact may not be as good. To read of one clicking shortly after install, indicates they not even regrinding the CV's cage or tulipe. SO SAD :frown: :frown:

I've read no mention of remarkable play of outboard or inboard CV as FSM defines it. But clicking, would indicate they have remarkable play out of the box. I also see their packaged very poorly. Even OEM new package needs improvement, but to just toss in a box without padding (or was package removed), is asking for damage seals. Even new when shipped, the seal almost always, get some damaged. Buying locally at my Toyota dealership, I never have bent seal to pound back out.

I grade FDS on 4 points.
1) Boots. (Pass or fail). If outer boot, is the hard Toyota Factory, they'd pass with a 100%. Assume hard. PASS!
2) Snap ring groove, ability to hold. Most importantly, a good 90 degree edge. But to wide a gap, can be a fail point also. I see some widening wear in pictures. But not to the point of any concern. Pass (with no more than ~5% wider than new) PASS!
3) Splines (teeth) outer axle to hub flange. (Inner axle, I've never seen wear, that's any concern) On the edge here. This is what I'd hoped Toyota would gives a 100%. I see more than 20% wear in pictures. Close to 30% (subjective). FAIL!
4) Remarkable play in either CV. (Any rotation play, is remarkable) Can't see this in a picture. But statement of clicking, is a failure. FAIL!.

So these remans would likely: FAIL!

I'd gladly pay $200 even $300 each (after core return) for a top-shelf remanufactured from Toyota. These are not TOP-SHELF IMHO based on picture and statements.

I'm sticking with NEW OEM on my recommendation. I'll install remans on request, but without labor warranty.


Boot front drive shaft.JPG



They will undouble have some R-N-D clunk from worn splines. Which new hub flange splines will likely wear fast because of.


New OEM FDS & Hub flange: So Sweet!
 
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How does the snap ring groove get worn out like that? Like how is that even possible? Thanks for sharing the pictures though. I was really tempted to go with one of these for my DS (did the PS with new OEM). Looks like i will just bite the bullet and do new OEM again.
 
So should I get a refund for mine? Im contemplating inspecting them when they arrive OR buying CARDONE OEM replacements.

What do y'all suggest ?

I dont want to spend the coil on new OE.
 
At some point the RCV axles will start to make sense- getting close
 
RuskiE39 said:
Thanks for the explanation. I bit the bullet last night and ordered a brand new OEM axle to replace the failing passenger side. Will let my bank account recover before doing the driver side but it seems fine currently.

And obviously arranged return for these.

Thanks all.
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How much did you pay for a new one?
 
Ironsides said:
I’ll wait to see the condition of the remans.

I’ll also consider sending mine in to get rebuilt if they’re in good shape.
Cardone rebuilds, anyone know of another place that does them?
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It would be awesome if you shared some great pics of the splines when you get them. I think it's worth a shot to at least look at them, but based on the few that we've seen shared here the quality bounds are atrocious.

One critical key with rebuilds is to reject donor axles with spline wear. It seems these Toyota remans don't reject anything. I'm unconvinced other reman companies do much better. Net result is that any reman is a gamble and unless you know how to inspect them you might not know until it's installed.
 
suprarx7nut said:
It would be awesome if you shared some great pics of the splines when you get them. I think it's worth a shot to at least look at them, but based on the few that we've seen shared here the quality bounds are atrocious.

One critical key with rebuilds is to reject donor axles with spline wear. It seems these Toyota remans don't reject anything. I'm unconvinced other reman companies do much better. Net result is that any reman is a gamble and unless you know how to inspect them you might not know until it's installed.
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If all else fails I guess I can rebuild mine myself. I’m rebuilding my entire Lx470 from scratch after the PO neglected it for 20 years, so what’s a set of CV’s?

I’m praying I get a set of new ones by mistake. The Toyota parts guy at my local has been overwhelmed from my orders, he lost it in front of me once when speaking to his manager, very unprofessional.

I’ve done a lot on cars but never this much in this little time.

I’ll be installing my leather seat replacement covers soon and not looking forward to it lol.
 
suprarx7nut said:
One critical key with rebuilds is to reject donor axles with spline wear. It seems these Toyota remans don't reject anything. I'm unconvinced other reman companies do much better.
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I’m convinced that the phrases “reman” and “rebuild” no longer mean what they used to. These companies like Detroit and CVJ are charging $200-250 for installing a $60 boot kit with new grease on trashed axles and then turning around and selling them as “remanufactured” or “rebuilt”, when they have not done anything close to what those terms used to mean. I’d be very skeptical of any CV axle for the 100 series that’s advertised as rebuilt or reman and costs under $300, because a new outer tulip with joint and boots is $200 alone.
 
Keep in mind that buying a new CV should also include a new diff seal, drive flange and gasket at the least. For me it was about $630ish for one side.
 
If your dealer has any relationship with your local off-road groups like mine does you can get a pretty good discount. I just picked a new OEM axle (that they surprisingly had on the shelf already) about 3wks ago for $437 out the door
 
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