TOYOTA, more than ever before...

[cps432]

This rear main has a felt lip on the outside. I have one from cruiseroutfitters with no felt. Just rubber. I’m assuming this felt version is for an older 2F iteration? Maybe an F engine?

 

[Godwin]

This rear main has a felt lip on the outside. I have one from cruiseroutfitters with no felt. Just rubber. I’m assuming this felt version is for an older 2F iteration? Maybe an F engine?
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3F maybe. The outer diameter of a 2F and 3F RMS are the same but the inner diameters differ. IIRC the 3F inner diameter is larger. I was once mistakenly sold a 2F RMS when I was working on a 3F and installed that RMS. It fit but with difficulty and within 25 miles was hemorrhaging oil. The correct 3F RMS had that felt lip.

 

[Spike Strip]

Correct seal for 10/84 - 8/87 2F

(Onur's hand in pic )

 

[Spike Strip]

FWIW, if you choke on the price of the RMS from Toyota, this is an alternative.

If you buy a National Seals (Federal Mogul) this is what shows up in the box:

(says made in Mexico, but NOK brand and exact same part # as on the Toyota-bagged, so who knows. It's identical to the OE seal. Price is about $25 less)

 

[cps432]

FWIW, if you choke on the price of the RMS from Toyota, this is an alternative.

If you buy a National Seals (Federal Mogul) this is what shows up in the box:

(says made in Mexico, but NOK brand and exact same part # as on the Toyota-bagged, so who knows. It's identical to the OE seal. Price is about $25 less)

View attachment 3193077View attachment 3193078

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View attachment 3193081

When I swapped my diffs and did my rear wheel bearings I was having trouble getting the axle into the bearing. I ended up destroying the one cruiseroutfitters sold me and went to oreilly to source an other one. All they had was National. Oh well I thought, better than nothing. It was a koyo in the package. Sweet!

 

[rstoddard]

stop .........


- please PM me and make a brief time for a shop hot line tech-time live call .........


- this paticulal WIPED crankshaft keyway issue and topic was a major problem for certain TOYOTA engine family's back in my dealership days as both shop foeman and team leader in the service dept. i have remodied more of these exactr issues then i can count successfully ,


HOWEVER ,

you ONLY get 1 chance to get it 100% spot on accurate , or your F#CKED ! \


- i indeed learned quick after my first several failed attempts , until somebody i referred to as TRD-MOSES skooled me correctly , i was in my early 20's he had lot's of grey hair and a big bushy beard , so hence my nickname for beloved John , whom has long since passed away , he was a lifetime Toyota Master technician , and started is the early 1970's at Brown's TOYOTA CITY in Glen Burnie Maryland , my 2nd summer internship Rodeo ........


- this is a outside the BOX HYBRID approach , but WILL if prescribed steps by Steps are followed to the T , save your 2F from certain DOOM ........




i am here to help you on this topic in any way i can ...

kindly matt







View attachment 3182284

@ToyotaMatt Can you share what "Outside the Box HYBRID" fix is? I have a similar issue (although maybe not as severe as a Key problem, but the HB wasn't as tight fitting on the crank nose), and I am curious what your fix is. I was planning to install a new AUS HB hoping to get a tighter fit on the nose and fit a new Key with some JB Weld to keep it from moving in the key way.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

@ToyotaMatt Can you share what "Outside the Box HYBRID" fix is? I have a similar issue (although maybe not as severe as a Key problem, but the HB wasn't as tight fitting on the crank nose), and I am curious what your fix is. I was planning to install a new AUS HB hoping to get a tighter fit on the nose and fit a new Key with some JB Weld to keep it from moving in the key way.

i have yet to speak by tech hot line to @cps432 regarding his KEY WAY issue , i came across this unique phenomenon many times back in my dealership days , ill explain in more detail here for sure ........

ill circle back as soon as time permits and get all thingstechnically technical about it ...

it's a KOOL solution , a person with a moderate to high skill set level can make happen ...

 

[cps432]

i have yet to speak by tech hot line to @cps432 regarding his KEY WAY issue , i came across this unique phenomenon many times back in my dealership days , ill explain in more detail here for sure ........

ill circle back as soon as time permits and get all thingstechnically technical about it ...

it's a KOOL solution , a person with a moderate to high skill set level can make happen ...

I’ve had my hands full the last few months. I’ll try to give you a call soon.

 

[cps432]

So, over the Christmas/New year holidays I made myself a hot tank and boiled my engine block out. It worked pretty well and only cost about $75-$85.

I found a 55 gallon fruit juice barrel at a local hardware store. Picked up a crab boiler off Craigslist (surprised to find a crab boiler in Montana) Got some cinder blocks and 5 gallons of simple green.

I had to stack the cinder blocks and some 4x4 lumber to support the barrel. The engine hoist is holding most of the weight of the engine block. It took several days to do the head and block. I also did the transmission cross member and the bell housing. A lot of the paint bubbled and scrapped off easily. The carbon basically rinsed off with a spray bottle. All in all I think it was worth it.

I also picked up the stuff for an electrolysis tank. I have yet to set it up and use it, but I’ll be doing that at some point.

 

[cps432]

I ordered a crank shaft from cruiser parts online. It was surprisingly reasonably priced. Cost more to ship it. The journals are in okay shape. They’re worse than my original. Probably ran dry a little bit. They should clean up fine though.

I decided to take a chance on a replacement unit rather than have to track down someone in Montana who knows how, can do, and is willing to repair the busted keyway on my original crank.

The castings are not identical. This replacement crank seems like an older design. My original one is sleeker and looks as though they made some changes to lessen the friction produced when the crank shaft is churning through the oil. I don’t suppose that will cause any real issues though it’s interesting to see the changes the engineers made.

While I was inspecting and comparing the two I noticed something peculiar about the snout of my original. The one with the busted keyway. On the replacement, the keyway for the HB and timing gear are cut on the same side and are in line. (Coplanar? Is that the correct term?)

On my original one the keyway for the HB is on the opposite side of the shaft from the timing gear key. They did a great job welding up the original slot because I could hardly see it and I still struggle to find it. They cut a new slot on the other side. This snout has been repaired and the repair broke and then that repair was repaired with jb weld and then it broke. That must be why this truck was parked and subsequently sold. Someone has been in this engine before. I’ve found razor blade scratches under the head gasket and behind the timing plate.

I’m wondering if they failed to turn the correct taper in the snout when they originally did this repair. You can see where the HB wobbled and wore the end of the snout. When I put a straight edge against it there’s a decent gap. It is not straight and it defiantly was not repairable a second time. The original crank is toast. Glad I snagged this new one.

 

[cps432]

I used a scrap slab of marble and some 400 grit sandpaper to resurface the rocker arms. It took a few hours. I flatten things by hand and mate them together for a living. Sometimes complex angles have to align and fit tightly. This was a simple project. I give it

After I cleaned up the rockers I finished degreasing and scrubbing the rest of the rocker arm assembly, lubed it up with some assembly grease and packed it away in a garbage bag to be installed later.

 

[cps432]

I’m on the fence with the valves and seats. I know the guides are worn and need to be replaced. I suspect I can regrind the valves and seats with a set of Neway valve seat tools. Just seems like a lot of work and the tools are pretty spendy for what they are and how often I’m gonna use them (once… maybe twice in my life?)

I’m not too keen on doing a shade tree valve lapping and calling it good. A machine shop is gonna be expensive, a long drive, and a long turn around time.

I’m leaning towards buying the tools and doing it myself. I can sell the valve seat cutters on eBay I’m sure. They’re nice tools.

Amayama has new OEM seats, guides, and valves. I’ve also sourced aftermarket parts from some of our reliable vendor friends. This could get very expensive very quickly or I might be able to pull something off with bare minimum tools. Any ideas or thoughts?

 

[CruiserTrash]

Great work. This is really inspirational to me, it’s far beyond what I’ve ever done and gives me hope for rebuilding the spare 2F I have.

 

[OSS]

The problem is, (with anyone doing this for the first time) is that they have zero experience doing it. They haven’t been shown how to do it correctly (cutting seats) and their first attempt is going to basically be blind - hoping the FSM instructions are adequate.

There won’t be a chance to practice on a few first, to get the hang of it and improve on technique. Nope. It has to be perfect right out of the gate with zero tolerance for a screw up.

It’s not like a person can get away with getting the hang of it on valve #4 after kinda botching 1-3. They all have to be perfect.

Maybe (maybe even likely) a complete head overhaul can be accomplished successfully by a careful first timer, but the hazards are many solely because its all uncharted territory.

But if doing it yourself is the only option — then you gotta do what you gotta do. Just be extremely careful.

 

[cps432]

Great work. This is really inspirational to me, it’s far beyond what I’ve ever done and gives me hope for rebuilding the spare 2F I have.

Thank you! This is the heaviest mechanical work I’ve done myself. I think… I haven’t done much of this work before, though I have brainstormed it for a long time. I’m glad you’re getting some ideas.

I’m treading deep dark waters here so to speak and I’m not sure there’s much of a life boat for me to cling to. I’m doing it because once I started I was fully committed. Now I have to just do it.

I have not gotten frustrated or upset with anything on this project and I’m taking everything in stride. Ubering to and from work etc is getting old, but I’ll be that much more thankful for this truck when it’s back together. I know the key to getting this done and not screwing it up is keeping a level head.

 

[cps432]

The problem is, (with anyone doing this for the first time) is that they have zero experience doing it. They haven’t been shown how to do it correctly (cutting seats) and their first attempt is going to basically be blind - hoping the FSM instructions are adequate.

There won’t be a chance to practice on a few first, to get the hang of it and improve on technique. Nope. It has to be perfect right out of the gate with zero tolerance for a screw up.

It’s not like a person can get away with getting the hang of it on valve #4 after kinda botching 1-3. They all have to be perfect.

Maybe (maybe even likely) a complete head overhaul can be accomplished successfully by a careful first timer, but the hazards are many solely because its all uncharted territory.

But if doing it yourself is the only option — then you gotta do what you gotta do. Just be extremely careful.

This is my exact sentiment here and why I’m on the fence. I am confident in my understanding of how everything should fit together and how to use the tools. But like you said it’s the experience that I lack… being a professionally trained woodworker who makes fine stringed instruments requiring exact measurements to function, I do have more general experience than a lot of people in the areas of creeping up into tolerances and whatnot.

You can ask anyone I work with and they’ll tell you I’m OCD with my work. I count every stroke every time. I am cognizant of my body mechanics and how my ergonomics effect the work and I go to great lengths to minimize my imperfections.

When I’m learning a new skill I think about how I would teach someone else to do it and it forces me to think more critically about what I am doing. I “think” I can pull this off based on literature and some tech videos I’ve found.

Lol….

 

[CruiserTrash]

Similar to what you’re saying, the “machine shop” work part of it scares me. I know some of that has to be VERY exact. Good on you for doing it though, and when it comes time for me to do it I’ll probably message you haha.

That being said, I did have a spare head rebuilt last year, so that part is done. I think it was $450 and it was done at a place that’s been working on 2Fs for 30+ years. I know the lower end is going to cost more so I’m thinking I have them clean up this spare block I have - clean it, level the top, gone the cylinders, and maybe polish the crankshaft. Right now I’d like to do the rest, but we’ll see. I just want a solid, completely rebuilt 2F to drop into my truck at some point.

 

[dogcruiser]

… and 5 gallons of simple green.

That’s like aromatherapy for your garage

 

[kirvesmies]

So, over the Christmas/New year holidays I made myself a hot tank and boiled my engine block out. It worked pretty well and only cost about $75-$85.

I found a 55 gallon fruit juice barrel at a local hardware store. Picked up a crab boiler off Craigslist (surprised to find a crab boiler in Montana) Got some cinder blocks and 5 gallons of simple green.

I had to stack the cinder blocks and some 4x4 lumber to support the barrel. The engine hoist is holding most of the weight of the engine block. It took several days to do the head and block. I also did the transmission cross member and the bell housing. A lot of the paint bubbled and scrapped off easily. The carbon basically rinsed off with a spray bottle. All in all I think it was worth it.

I also picked up the stuff for an electrolysis tank. I have yet to set it up and use it, but I’ll be doing that at some point. View attachment 3218636View attachment 3218637View attachment 3218638View attachment 3218640View attachment 3218641

home built hot tank, hot damn! am i correct in thinking the crab boiler is under that stack? any charring or burning of the spacer lumber? also, how long does that tank of 'pane last in use? good fortunes with your rebuild by the way

 

[kirvesmies]

hey @cps432 n @CruiserTrash

This is my exact sentiment here and why I’m on the fence. I am confident in my understanding of how everything should fit together and how to use the tools. But like you said it’s the experience that I lack… being a professionally trained woodworker who makes fine stringed instruments requiring exact measurements to function, I do have more general experience than a lot of people in the areas of creeping up into tolerances and whatnot.

You can ask anyone I work with and they’ll tell you I’m OCD with my work. I count every stroke every time. I am cognizant of my body mechanics and how my ergonomics effect the work and I go to great lengths to minimize my imperfections.

When I’m learning a new skill I think about how I would teach someone else to do it and it forces me to think more critically about what I am doing. I “think” I can pull this off based on literature and some tech videos I’ve found.

Lol….

Similar to what you’re saying, the “machine shop” work part of it scares me. I know some of that has to be VERY exact. Good on you for doing it though, and when it comes time for me to do it I’ll probably message you haha.

That being said, I did have a spare head rebuilt last year, so that part is done. I think it was $450 and it was done at a place that’s been working on 2Fs for 30+ years. I know the lower end is going to cost more so I’m thinking I have them clean up this spare block I have - clean it, level the top, gone the cylinders, and maybe polish the crankshaft. Right now I’d like to do the rest, but we’ll see. I just want a solid, completely rebuilt 2F to drop into my truck at some point.

don't doubt your capabilities guys, we have a young lady in here who's done what you are working on n considerably more. apparently, she'll NeverGiveUpYotas. find her build thread n check it out for inspiration, it's bad @$$