Towing with a 200 Series

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Ugh...WD hitch was no help - still white knuckles.

Is it the suspension and tires?
 
Not enough tongue weight would be my guess. With a 7k trailer weight, I'd want to see at least 700 pounds on the tongue of not 1,000

Not enough tongue weight will cause really bad sway and the seat fabric will end up in places it should not be in.
 
Just a question, but what is your expectation? The 200 is never going to tow like the 3/4 ton you pictured above. If that is what your used to then I don't think you'll ever be completely satisfied with the 200 towing. You can't add wheel base.

The last picture on the previous page it looks like the trailer has the front of your 200 a little light on its wheels. Hard to tell with the lighting and your black wheels. But if the WD hitch did not cure that then I'd address your rear suspension with stiffer springs or airbags. Try a little more PSI in the rear tires.
 
I would try to level the trailer a bit to start. Right now it is loading the rearmost trailer axle and making the trailer less stable. Change the hitch drop and use air bags (for example) to bring the rear of the 200 up. You could also find a friend with good towing pickup (2500 HD or a properly configured Tundra would work) and try that to see how it feels. E-rated tires would make it less squirmy. That trailer is a big sail and it is going to get pushed around. Slowing down works wonders. All IMHO of course.
 
To be fair, it's not 7000lbs, more like 5200 with the A/C and generator. I was obviously naive in thinking that a vehicle rated to tow 8200 wouldn't have issues...chalk it up to inexperience.

Also, I'm not used to pickups...never had one in my life.
The last pic is of a truck my son and I were looking at last week after the initial tow.

The pics above are pre tweaking. Since then I had the axles flipped so the trailer is more level with the LC, and added a weight distribution hitch. The hitch was dialed in by a professional.

The trailer now sits level and there's little sag on the LC. It already has OME heavy duty springs.

I was also concerned by how hard the 5.7 was working to mosey the trailer up an on ramp. I was thinking of trading the LC in for a Tundra (for the wheelbase), but it's the same engine.

I like the idea of borrowing a diesel pickup to see the difference, but I don't know anyone who has one...maybe I can find a place that rents them.
 
Even at 5200 pounds, you should have something more like 520 to 780 pounds of tongue weight, before tightening up the WD bars. With the 200, you will definitely know the trailer is back there. This will be the same for the Tundra as well. I have found that holding the transmission in 4th (unless you are on dead flat ground in which case 5th can be used), produces the best balance of power / economy and stops the transmission huntuing for a gear.

But given your white knuckle comment and an assumption that means handling, I am thinking that the balance between tongue weight and trailer weight is the first place to start. I have always used a rule of thumb to try to keep the towed load to no more than 80% of rated capacity. My experience shows that going above that gets uncomfortable on many fronts, though I have towed with various vehicles at above 100% for short distances. Not to :deadhorse: but inadequate tongue weight can turn a good towing trailer into a real biatch. I pull an 18 foot open car hauler and positioning the load just a few inches (3-4) forward or backwards will make a huge difference in how the trailer pulls.
 
Thank you, that's helpful.

Where do I go to measure tongue weight?

Is tongue weight anything in front of the trailer wheels? Meaning I need to add things to the front of the trailer to weigh it down?

Am I halving the life of the engine and transmission by overworking a vehicle not specifically designed to tow?
 
A good trailer shop may have a tongue weight scale. If not, they are available for a reasonable amount of money or there are ways to measure it with a bathroom scale, jack stands, and some 2x4s. I happen to own a tongue weight scale and if you were closer would tell you to come borrow it ... but by the time you finished that drive, your steering wheel might be badly mangled ;)

I think a quick Google search on measuring trailer tongue weight will come up with some good suggestions. (and I am serious here .... not trying to be a smart a--).

ON EDIT: Here's a good article on measuring tongue weight ... http://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-determine-trailer-tongue-weight.aspx

As for halving the life of the engine and transmission ... if you were towing 100% of the time ... maybe, but for recreational towing, you should be well within the designed duty cycle of the truck. Will it shorten the lives? - yeah Will it be a material shortening? Probably not ...
 
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You are not halving the life or overworking it. The truck is overbuilt, so many of the components and cooling system parts are oversized for the application. My only advice is to run a 5W30 oil in the engine, keep an eye on the condition of the trans fluid, and put some good synthetics in the t-case and differentials... Traditional 75W90 for the latter.
 
also define your complaint of "white Knuckle" Steering? braking? acceleration? etc...

As mentioned watch how you load the trailer with gear. Most often the water tank/s are over the axles to prevent that from causing a large change in bias. But just your gear can have an effect to.

The only way to cure braking and acceleration will be a diesel HD pick-up. But if you get that trailer balanced good it should not stress the 200 much. I've towed heavier with my 80 on occasion.

In the end its pretty hard to have a truck that is both comfortable for daily driving and towing large trailers. If you try out a diesel you'll see why people buy them. But they are pretty harsh for a daily commute unloaded.
 
When towing I've always heard stay in S-4 for you torque converter lockup. S-5 and S-6 are overdrive ratios. I put in Firestone helper bags to tow my 80 up to Superlift in Akansas next week. Hope I have decent results.
 
Hard to describe - it felt bouncy, like an old Caddy, and it felt like if I lost 5% focus I could end up in the next lane. I was also towing in rush hour traffic and hoping really hard some asshat wouldn't decide to squeeze in at the last minute in front of me.

On a somewhat related note, what do people do to help the side mirror situation? I bought some strap-ons at an auto parts place, but they're useless. The one part of the mirror that could be any help vibrates so much I can't see jack.
 
Short wheelbase coil suspension with links does not make for a good tow vehicle. Airbags, wd hitch and the rest will help but overall the reaction of the truck to the weight and the suspension cycles makes for a scary ride.
 
Setup is going to be key, getting the tongue level, keeping the 200 flat with airbags, using a wd hitch, and making sure your brake control is setup properly. If you don't have a lot of experience towing find someone to help you out.
 
I now have it set up as good as I can. The trailer sits level and the truck's front and back are in the same proportion as when not towing. The only thing I did was to go one more link on the WDH chains.

It's still a situation where full concentration is required, but it's better. I guess a long road trip will tell the tale.

We went to Camping World yesterday and I talked to a guy with a RAM 3500 Cummins 4x4 Mega Cab, which would be the way I'd go if this proves too stressful on long trips. He's had the truck for 2 months and says he's averaging 16 mpg. That's 4 better than my LC, and I take it easy when I drive it.

Anyone out there with the inside scoop on these trucks?

I might convert the LC back to stock and give it to my wife...she's due for something nice for all the crap she has to put up with by being married to me. But she loves her van...
 
I now have it set up as good as I can. The trailer sits level and the truck's front and back are in the same proportion as when not towing. The only thing I did was to go one more link on the WDH chains.

It's still a situation where full concentration is required, but it's better. I guess a long road trip will tell the tale.

We went to Camping World yesterday and I talked to a guy with a RAM 3500 Cummins 4x4 Mega Cab, which would be the way I'd go if this proves too stressful on long trips. He's had the truck for 2 months and says he's averaging 16 mpg. That's 4 better than my LC, and I take it easy when I drive it.

Anyone out there with the inside scoop on these trucks?

I might convert the LC back to stock and give it to my wife...she's due for something nice for all the crap she has to put up with by being married to me. But she loves her van...


Have you considered having a person with tons of towing experience drive your rig and assess it? Distrust the guy who claims he has 20 years experience and is only 17 years old. The RAM/Cummins will tow the trailer and you don't even have to remove the LC. But it would be a challenge to park in most car decks.
 
That's a great idea...now to find someone I can trust
 
Ok, I REALLY want to see more pics of your tire/wheel setup. 325s??! Holy crap, do those really fit?!

Tell me EVERYTHING!
 

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