Tools needed for knuckle rebuild

[kulangot]

Your being too hard on yourself!

Save that for when frag the motor for forgetting to put the distributor tang into the oil pump or my own personal folly - for pulling and tearing down a perfectly good F motor because it made no power only to find out that it was an out of calibration timing light that caused me set the timing wrong! I should have checked the tool. A friend once hosed a ducati motor for using an out of calibration torque wrench.

What you are experiencing is very minor setback! Your doing a great job!

"Professional" means someone who has made all mistakes related to their profession! This is how you learn.

 

[BigFisher]

Tearing up stuff is just part of wrenching, I did the exact same thing the first time I did a knuckle rebuild. I know it's too late now, but when I did it, I went to the local parts store and rented a tap and die set to retread the knuckle stud. 10 min, and it was good to go...

 

[Phares]

Dude, I dropped a bolt into the block when my Dad and I pulled the thermostat to replace on my old '85 Ford Ranger. As long as you don't blow up the engine everything is pretty much fixable. We got the bolt out with a really strong magnet in case you were wondering.

 

[michaelharrisco]

Thanks guys...makes me feel a little better.

Had a small window tonight to work on it. Old stud removed and new one installed. I hope to get 2 - 3 hours tomorrow and finish this off!

Will of course let everyone know the end result.

 

[michaelharrisco]

Btw... Threads were in way worse shape on the other side than the pic shows. Total mushroom on the back side.

 

[Phares]

 

[krzyabncanuck]

I just might not be able to see it , but was there a shim under that plate ?

 

[michaelharrisco]

Yes there was and is one in there. I followed exactly how it was when I took it apart. If my memory is correct it was one on top and two on bottom

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Just as long as it was when you took it apart it will be fine.

 

[michaelharrisco]

Sounds good... Did want to ask a new question:


While using a torque wrench does anyone ever experience a lock washer giving a "click" and not really torque all the way? I'm wondering if I'm torque good or if I have either more bad threads or something weird going on between the lock washer and the cone washer that gives me a false positive on the torque wrench.

Does that make sense?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What kind of torque wrench do you have? How do you know it's not torquing all the way?

Two basic types of torque wrenches:
1. "clicker" type - clicks when torque setting is met
2. "beam" type - has a solid shaft and an analog gauge on top of the shaft, with a secondary, smaller beam that indicates applied torque


Remember, always go by the numbers on your gauge ( assuming the gauge is calibrated correctly ), not by feel.

 

[michaelharrisco]

Clicker type. Brand new craftsmen style.

What is concerning me is sometimes I feel like there is some type of click going on between the lock washer and the cone washer.

I will try again tonight, but just wondering what other people have experienced.

BTW: anyone know torque spec for lug nuts on org steelies? I'm sure I can find it online somewhere, but just throwing it out there here as I bet some if u know if off the top of you head.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Clicker type. Brand new craftsmen style.

What is concerning me is sometimes I feel like there is some type of click going on between the lock washer and the cone washer.

I will try again tonight, but just wondering what other people have experienced.

BTW: anyone know torque spec for lug nuts on org steelies? I'm sure I can find it online somewhere, but just throwing it out there here as I bet some if u know if off the top of you head.

Torque it until your wrench clicks. It's difficult to interpret what you're describing, but the lock washer will slide around until it catches on the lip of the cone washer. I wouldn't worry about it.


90-100 ft/lbs should suffice for the lug nuts. FJ62 spec is 110ft/lbs IIRC.

 

[michaelharrisco]

Thanks.... This the right stuff for the diff? I want a sanity check after all the time I've put into this thing.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

80w-90 is what's needed. That's the fancy stuff, I use the cheap coastal gear lube myself.

 

[michaelharrisco]

I anticipated a comment about the Lucas stuff. At least I didn't go withy the synthetic.... That stuff is $18 a pop.

I figured after all the time in on this I might as well splurge for Lucas.

Thanks for confirming. I read the spec on FAQ so I was pretty sure this is the right stuff just wanted a confirmation.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

No problem man!

Did you end up getting the other side back together?

BTW, I'm impressed that you're still able to keep up work on this project, with the new baby and all

 

[michaelharrisco]

I plan on finishing other side tonight. I don't anticipate any problems (famous last words). So my hope is to put that gear oil in tonight.

Wife has been cool about me working on it with the baby, but other motivation is she wants her 4runner back since the 40 and the 4runner are our only cars.

 

[JohnVee]

So when are you coming to CLT? I know of 3x 40's that might need this work done, and you know you'll only remember how to do it if you repeat it...? I'd hate for you to have to relearn it all again in 30 years.

--john

 

[Phares]

Yeah, this maintenance is due for Herman. You can come help me.