- Thread starter
- #41
Makes sense.... Thanks for the education. Mine (like everything in the whole area of the axle) was covered in caked up 20+ year old grease so I never even knew it was there.
Tools needed for knuckle rebuild
- Thread starter michaelharrisco
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #43
BFG all terrains 31 x 10.5 currently basically racing slicks they are so bald, but once I get this thing buttoned up I will be getting brand new ones.
On org steelies by the way
On org steelies by the way
Pretty easy to install a brass nipple instead of that cap and run a breather hose up to a higher location. Those breathers fail all the time and can cause leaks due to sudden pressure changes in the axle (like a creek crossing cooling down a hot diff).
R
R
Pretty easy to install a brass nipple instead of that cap and run a breather hose up to a higher location. Those breathers fail all the time and can cause leaks due to sudden pressure changes in the axle (like a creek crossing cooling down a hot diff).
I do that to every one of mine. Its the one piece from Heep that fits right down in there and works great.
- Thread starter
- #47
Interesting.... I'm no hard wheeler, but it doesn't seem like it would take much dirt or temp chg to screw this up.
Where would one get this brass fitting you mentioned and what is the reco hose to use?
Picture of this mounted up available?
Where would one get this brass fitting you mentioned and what is the reco hose to use?
Picture of this mounted up available?
3/8 NPT brass fitting will thread right in - you can find them at any hardware store. Run fuel line up into the engine bay and either refit that breather at the end, or use a cheapie fuel filter. Leave some slack in the line for axle movement; but do not create any loops in it.
- Thread starter
- #50
In reference to phone calls and PM, here is a pic of the hub installed with a circle around the area I'm confused about. Directions call for this bolt done the middle of the hub. When I tighten the whole drivetrain turns (which makes sense). What I'm confused about is the snap ring the directions call for. Is this a warn snap ring or Toyota?
The warn hub came with a thick washer that has a "step" on it which I'm thinking is for the snap ring.
This probably isn't all that hard to figure out but since it is my first time I want to make sure I do it right.
Any help? I will call Johnny back tomorrow, but wanted to post a picture for the sake of conversation.
The warn hub came with a thick washer that has a "step" on it which I'm thinking is for the snap ring.
This probably isn't all that hard to figure out but since it is my first time I want to make sure I do it right.
Any help? I will call Johnny back tomorrow, but wanted to post a picture for the sake of conversation.
Looks Warn to me, looks nothing like an aisin. Just rebuilt the front end on mine the last couple of weekends
- Thread starter
- #53
I believe so... Ordered about a month ago.
I'm going to try to call warn today
I'm going to try to call warn today
Mike, here are the instructions from WARN:
http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/32132F0-pn28771.pdf
In short, you need to install the snap ring on the inner axle shaft, then install the bolt with retaining washer. The snap ring is a Toyota part and should have been one of the parts you took off during disassembly. It would have been on the inner axle shaft on the outside of your drive flange. You would have had to take off this snap ring in order to take off the drive flange.
Call me if you have any questions.
http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/32132F0-pn28771.pdf
In short, you need to install the snap ring on the inner axle shaft, then install the bolt with retaining washer. The snap ring is a Toyota part and should have been one of the parts you took off during disassembly. It would have been on the inner axle shaft on the outside of your drive flange. You would have had to take off this snap ring in order to take off the drive flange.
Call me if you have any questions.
- Thread starter
- #55
Thanks. I don't think a phone call is needed at this point, but will call you if I get stuck again.
I thought I did a good job bagging all the parts as I removed them. I thought this snap ring would be in the drive flange bag, but I can't put my finger on it.
I will go through everything again when I get a chance and hopefully find it. I remember taking it off.
Getting so close to finishing one side. Can't wait to start on the other side and get it back on the road. This had def been the longest not driving it.
I thought I did a good job bagging all the parts as I removed them. I thought this snap ring would be in the drive flange bag, but I can't put my finger on it.
I will go through everything again when I get a chance and hopefully find it. I remember taking it off.
Getting so close to finishing one side. Can't wait to start on the other side and get it back on the road. This had def been the longest not driving it.
- Thread starter
- #56
Snap ring found in drive flange bag just like I thought. It was covered in thick grease so I didn't spot it right away.
I had my first uh oh I made a mistake moment last night, but I think it's pretty easy to fix. Would like to get a quick confirmation.
In the picture below I already have the 8 bolts holding the brake dust shield attached. I believe the oil seal part is suppose to be under these bolts prior to the hub / disc brake asm attached. Correct? Is the seal lip suppose to face towards the inner wheel bearing seal... If that makes sense?
I'm gonna place a phone call today, but thought a picture would help discuss.
After this hopefully tonight I can be the warn hub on and be done with this side!
I had my first uh oh I made a mistake moment last night, but I think it's pretty easy to fix. Would like to get a quick confirmation.
In the picture below I already have the 8 bolts holding the brake dust shield attached. I believe the oil seal part is suppose to be under these bolts prior to the hub / disc brake asm attached. Correct? Is the seal lip suppose to face towards the inner wheel bearing seal... If that makes sense?
I'm gonna place a phone call today, but thought a picture would help discuss.
After this hopefully tonight I can be the warn hub on and be done with this side!
- Thread starter
- #58
The one in the top right of this photo circled in red. Sorry I know it is hard to describe in words... Pictures are worth a thousand words.
I still plan on giving you a call later today
I still plan on giving you a call later today
I'll be around after 6 for a call. No worries man!
That part is #31 in the picture linked here. It is the outermost thing that's held on by those 8 spindle bolts:
http://www.sor.com/cat080.sor
That part is #31 in the picture linked here. It is the outermost thing that's held on by those 8 spindle bolts:
http://www.sor.com/cat080.sor
Wow. Amazingly informative thread. Thanks for all the pictures and please keep us updated on your project. This is definitely a job in my future.