Tools needed for knuckle rebuild

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Got the seal on right now (see pic). What I'm struggling with now is getting the snap ring in place.

Following the warn instructions I torque down the center bolt but still don't seen how the snap ring is going to catch. Meaning I can't see the notch in the splines at all. Wondering if it always this tight?

I didn't get started until later so I didn't get too far and I also didn't have a chance to call anyone for advice. Hopefully this weekend.

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Mike, the process is as follows:
1. Install hub body
2. Pull out inner axle shaft so the snap ring groove is exposed
3. Install the snap ring
4. Torque down the center bolt
 
Mike, the process is as follows:
1. Install hub body
2. Pull out inner axle shaft so the snap ring groove is exposed
3. Install the snap ring
4. Torque down the center bolt

This makes sense and what I was trying last night, but step 2 is tricky part. I will try to pull out axle, but from memory didn't seem to be able to pull on it last night.

Should I just be able to grab axle with my hand and pull it or is there a trick I'm missing?
 
This makes sense and what I was trying last night, but step 2 is tricky part. I will try to pull out axle, but from memory didn't seem to be able to pull on it last night.

Should I just be able to grab axle with my hand and pull it or is there a trick I'm missing?

Usually I take a long M8x1.25 ( IIRC ) bolt and thread it into the end of the birfield to give me something to grab onto. With that method, it should be relatively easy to pull the axle out far enough to expose the snap ring groove.
 
Perfect! Can't wait to get home and try this. At this point being this close I'm dying to get home and finish.

Of course then it's time to start the other side
 
Usually I take a long M8x1.25 ( IIRC ) bolt and thread it into the end of the birfield to give me something to grab onto. With that method, it should be relatively easy to pull the axle out far enough to expose the snap ring groove.

X2, just did my first a couple months ago. Initially, it seemed "hard" to move but once the suction of the grease is overcome, it moved easily as Johnny described...
 
And I thought Brian was kidding!!

Later LCs definitely do not have safety wire.
 
My 74 has them, not sure when they stopped...

But I thought I would throw it out there, if those spindle bolts have a hole in the head for it, then I'd go get some wire and wire them up.

Johnny, you were thinking it was like blinker fluid? :)
 
My 74 has them, not sure when they stopped...

But I thought I would throw it out there, if those spindle bolts have a hole in the head for it, then I'd go get some wire and wire them up.

Johnny, you were thinking it was like blinker fluid? :)

:lol: Yeah man, I was! Totally thought that was a red herring.

Seriously though, if those spindle bolts have holes, then saftey-wiring them can't hurt!
 
No safety wire on my 78. I stressed about this because the instructions I am following talked about this, but his was older.

I don't have the holes for the safety wire and they weren't there on removal so I think I'm safe.

Sitting here in the office dying to get home and finish this! I hope I can finish this side tonight and start on other tomorrow.
 
Driver side done and tested out good (well not for leaks yet), but warn hub is working perfect!

Tomorrow begins passenger side.

Many thanks to everyone so far.

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Passenger side is moving much faster!

I'm kicking myself so hard though; I did the big no no of hammering on a stud with no nut on the top and I messed up the threads on one if the top knuckle studs.

Got one on order now, but I do have a quick question:

Is there any reason why I can't continue the job and put the new stud in at the end? The cone washer is in place properly so I'm thinking I can just thread the new stud in once it arrives.

Thoughts?

I'm kicking myself so hard for doing such a stupid mistake.
 
Passenger side is moving much faster!

I'm kicking myself so hard though; I did the big no no of hammering on a stud with no nut on the top and I messed up the threads on one if the top knuckle studs.

Got one on order now, but I do have a quick question:

Is there any reason why I can't continue the job and put the new stud in at the end? The cone washer is in place properly so I'm thinking I can just thread the new stud in once it arrives.

Thoughts?

I'm kicking myself so hard for doing such a stupid mistake.

How badly did you booger up the threads? You might be able to rescue them with a die or a triangular file.
 
I will post a pic tonight. Bad enough that I ended up getting a nut stuck on there due to what appears to be a cross thread.
 
Well never mind the picture, I have a nut stuck on there now. Toyota dealer was able to get me a new one so I'm just going to remove old one and install new one.

Bummed because I could already be done with this job if would not have made this mistake.

I hope the old stud comes out, but worse case I could weld worthless nut that is on there now to remove but I'm hoping u dont have to get to that point. The stud turned earlier so I think it is already losened.
 
Note to self:
1. Buy a brass drift and use that to hammer on studs
2. Better yet, buy a 3lb brass hammer and forego the brass drift.
 
I am embarrassed to say I had a drift 2 feet away.


I simply blew it on this (probably just got lazy) and I am paying the price now.

Hopefully stud will go out and new one in with not too much trouble. I feel like if I can get this done I will only have a couple more hours to finish.

Mark this down as a life lesson and a mistake I will never make again.
 
I am embarrassed to say I had a drift 2 feet away.


I simply blew it on this (probably just got lazy) and I am paying the price now.

Hopefully stud will go out and new one in with not too much trouble. I feel like if I can get this done I will only have a couple more hours to finish.

Mark this down as a life lesson and a mistake I will never make again.

I hear you man, mistakes are the best learning opportunities.

When taking the bad stud out, remember that you don't need to save the threads because they're effed already, so a torch and vice grips are a perfectly acceptable method of removal :hillbilly:
 
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