Tools needed for knuckle rebuild

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michaelharrisco

michaelharrisco

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Threads
107
Messages
485
Location
Raleigh, NC
I'm toying with the idea of starting my front axle / knuckle rebuild this weekend. Parts are on order so I'm doing some prep stuff this week.

1) marlin complete rebuild kit including wheel bearings
2) warn locking hubs
3) grease and gear oil (still need to buy)

Does anyone have the following tools I could borrow:

1) 54mm socket
2) race and seal set for pressing
3) fish scale
4) seal puller
5) brass drift

Everything else I've read I need I have.

I'm attempting to do this in a single car garage which I think will work if I do one side at a time (which I'd do anyway) so that I can park it at an angle in there then move it to the other side.

If all goes as planned I'm going to start pulling out everything on Friday night.

I'd be willing to throw you some beer for the borrowed tools.

Feel free to call me at 919-649-4302 if that is easier.

Fingers crossed as this will certainly be the biggest repair job I've ever done myself on the cruiser.

I'm ready for all the grease!
 
I've got a set of brass drifts and the socket, but if you plan on keeping your 40 for a while it's something you may want to pick up and own yourself. I beleive I picked both of them at Northern Tool, for not too much $.

But if you want to borrow mine that's fine with me, I'll be doing some errands on Friday for the Meet and Greet this weekend nd could meet you or drop them off during the day....
 
Only brass drift set I see there is $100+ so I'm thinking I'd rather borrow these tools. I'm a pretty low key gear head with a small storage space so I would like to borrow as much as possible.

Will you be around town around 6 on Thursday or Friday? I'm by Tryon rd and avent ferry near lake Johnson. I'd be happy to come to your place.

Anyone else have the other tools?
 
Steel punches from harbor freight for driving the races in and out - $10.

Brass drifts from harbor freight for less than $25.

Seal puller from harbor freight.

2 1/8" socket from Harbor Freight, Sears or Northern Tool for $40.

I'd recommend picking this stuff up. It's something you'll want to have in future years.
 
I will go shopping on Thursday. I'm not seeing this stuff on the harbor freight web site, but maybe I will have better luck going to the actual store (I've had that experience in the past with them). If I can't find any of this stuff to buy locally I will send out an SOS looking to borrow from someone here on Thursday night.

So basically I will take y'all advice and just go buy myself. Spending $20+ on a socket irritates me for some reason.
 
The socket should be in stock at Sears and Northern Tool, maybe not at HF, but HF should have everything else.

If you can't find something, hit me up, I've got everything you need.
 
krzyabncanuck said:
Now you are starting to see being a mechanic is not cheap. I usually break at least one tool a job . Depending on the job.
Click to expand...

My friend Henry Cubillan once came over to my house and said that I could buy a much nicer land cruiser if I did not spend all of my money on tools.

I laughed and told him that the garage was my hobby, not the Land Cruiser! And went on to say that I like the Mad Max look FJ40 myself...

All of my stuff is in storage until I find a place down here but I too would recommend that you buy the stuff and build up your tool set. You will use all of it time and time again.

-Stumbaugh

PS Let me know if you need a hand and I can try to sneak over - I could use some wrenching time.
 
I have the socket, seal puller, drifts, which you can borrow. I'm in Holly Springs and work on NCSU campus.

2) race and seal set for pressing

Not sure what this is. Use the old seals and/or drift to drive in new seals. I've also used wood to drive them in.

A real Cruiserhead doesn't need a fish scale - s/he knows bearing tightness by feel. ;) /me runs
 
One good redneck tool for driving in the new races is to take the old races, grind down the outside circumference so they will not catch or stick and use them to drive the new races in.

Saw that trick when we did Clint's rear axle on his 80 a few years back and have used it since with great success:hillbilly:
 
So far so good.... Got everything out.


Big thanks to John (kulangot) for the phone call and the ATF and acetone mix trick on the cone washers. I'm a believer!

Now it is going to be a few days before I start the re-assembly, but so far so good.

Also thanks to joe for a few tools he let me borrow

image-2481224884.webp


image-421336398.webp
 
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Looks good so far, keep up the good work!!
 
kulangot said:
I'm glad that worked, it was sounding like it was about to get ugly.

I have had some amazing results with that mix in the past.
Click to expand...

John, you know if that doesn't work, Kroil always does! When'd you move to NC?
 
Blue77FJ40 said:
John, you know if that doesn't work, Kroil always does! When'd you move to NC?
Click to expand...

It sure seem to work this time!!!!

What's up Dan, how is the leg? Last time I saw you was that welding tech day we had at my place a few years ago and I think you had just had it worked on. Getting old sucks!

Moved down here two months ago.

ATF-Acetone or ATF-Laquer thinner does work! Kroil is good too though. I'd put it up against Kroil for the Pepsi challenge any day! Bring it! Please try it before you knock it! Brings a lot more credibility to your BS :flipoff2: :)


Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
 
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And putting anti-seize on the cone washers at re-install will help ensure they come off easy next time.
 
Slowly but surly I'm making some progress.

Got wheel bearings removed and first packed bearing on knuckle. Hopefully on Saturday I can make some real progress.

Main question at the moment: I usually put SS back on everything I do on this truck. Any negatives on using SS on this job? Will I be okay if I use SS on the nuts to hold the bottom bearing plate and the pitman arm?

Other than a broken brake line that was probably in need of a change I'm doing good, but got a ways to go.

I can't wait to get this done, fresh tires and a legit alignment!

image-1841326196.webp
 
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