JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
From a 5vz-fe, so I presume it can be pulled on the 2uz-fe as well.
Timing belt job just done. Blown engine or savable? This is interesting guys!
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #44
Thank you, it does. I'll call my parts guys at Toyota and Lexus in morning a sub that one if nothing else.
Belt is timed dead on. Study post #32. You'll see it's dead on.
I see if I can see a gap with a mirror. But if this is the problem and knock pin now out of hole. It will be squashed and enlarged. So I need to find another.
It is a good point, and if your right about sprocket being seat with a large gap, it may be bent. Dank. I've 4 heads sitting here in the shop. But they are all VVT and have a very different set-up. So I can't use as parts source.
I'm between a rock and a hard spot. I've two others that must be in and out of my one stall this rig is taking up, by Saturday night. So finding a pin may be the key to getting this rig running.
I really hope the knock pin is the issue. Otherwise I'm out of test, ideas and time. I was just trying to help the guy and his mechanic from eating it on and engine.
The key in crank is in and looks as it should. The knock pin in BK 1 which has compression looks fine. Only this bk2 and this Bk2 knock pin are not as they should be. So this must be it right...LOL.. I hope so!
It does seem it is out to far. What you can't see in picture is the washer that is part of the nut, looks stressed at point it's contacting the pin.
The pin @JunkCrzr89 shows from the 5vz is long. Makes me thing I'm wrong. But that pin does look right. If the 2UZ does come out and that long, and is out of the hole. It's bad.
That sprocket will be bent if he torque it on or used and impact wrench.
Pull the belt off and see if the cam pulley is spinning freely with that pin looking like it does could be sheered and not moving that cam bank at all.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #46
I will I pull sprocket tomorrow. I did mark the cam behind the sprocket and it is not free spinning. Also as I did the leak down test. I put a lot of force on the crank to turn the cams with 90 psi on tester gauge. As I came up on compression stroke, with all 4 valves closed. It was very very had to turn against air being compressed. So much so, with a large 1/2 breaker, I could not turn against the compressed air. I had to dial down the pressure in tester to 35 PSI, to find the all valve closed spot at point piston would not be forced down. So cam is holding against force!
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #47
I've not pulled the belt and sprocket yet.
But did try to see if a gap between camshaft end and sprocket. My mirror is to large. So I tried a prob with needle point. I could not feel any gap. Also sprocket looked the same distance from head as BK 1.
Called Toyota Parts. My best regular guy is out, but another really good researcher (a buddy in parts) is searching for clues. They do not show part (knock pin) available. So may be if fixed (pressed in camshaft end). So this begs the question on how it could possible float out.
So I suppose it could be the mechanic forget to torque this camshaft nut. Then knock pin sheared off.
Could be I'm barking up wrong tree, and camshaft is clocked properly. But then why dead BK2. and why does pin now protrude out?
Before I pull this sprocket and get more parts lying around shop. I'd like to get handle on this. So I post another RTH help on knock pin.
If this pin is fixed and is sheared off. I'll need a camshaft and head cover gaskets minimum. Not likely one around.
What do you guys say:
But did try to see if a gap between camshaft end and sprocket. My mirror is to large. So I tried a prob with needle point. I could not feel any gap. Also sprocket looked the same distance from head as BK 1.
Called Toyota Parts. My best regular guy is out, but another really good researcher (a buddy in parts) is searching for clues. They do not show part (knock pin) available. So may be if fixed (pressed in camshaft end). So this begs the question on how it could possible float out.
So I suppose it could be the mechanic forget to torque this camshaft nut. Then knock pin sheared off.
Could be I'm barking up wrong tree, and camshaft is clocked properly. But then why dead BK2. and why does pin now protrude out?
Before I pull this sprocket and get more parts lying around shop. I'd like to get handle on this. So I post another RTH help on knock pin.
If this pin is fixed and is sheared off. I'll need a camshaft and head cover gaskets minimum. Not likely one around.
What do you guys say:
- Floated out?
- Fixed and sheared?
- Braking up wrong tree?
- I'm missing something?
- ?
This is an interesting thread!
Lets just say the pin sheared.. wouldn't the belt keep the pulley on the correct timing marks? Meaning the cam could move around, and completely jack up the valves? Which would correlate the bent valve scenario. Maybe you already posted this, but how does the leakdown test look on that side, while rotating the crank?
Lets just say the pin sheared.. wouldn't the belt keep the pulley on the correct timing marks? Meaning the cam could move around, and completely jack up the valves? Which would correlate the bent valve scenario. Maybe you already posted this, but how does the leakdown test look on that side, while rotating the crank?
Your hypothesis is what I was also thinking. The sprockets are aligned with the belt but the shaft itself has moved. Leak down test was within spec according to an earlier post, but all of bank 2 has equally bad compression, which sure sounds like the valves are closing late.
Can you use the chop stick method? If the spark plug hole is right above the piston, you can get the piston close to TDC by rotating crank. Insert your chopstick and watch for TDC of that piston. Determine exactly where the peak vertical movement is and that should be TDC for cyl 1.
If you do that method and the cam gear shows TDC at the same point where the chop stick shows TDC, you can pretty well rule out a sheared pin.
If you do that method and the cam gear shows TDC at the same point where the chop stick shows TDC, you can pretty well rule out a sheared pin.
Then it's got to be spun cam gear. Not even sure how to check it without lifting valve cover or removing belt. Valve cover probably easier and you will see how it works for sure.
go back to the giant clue of having a ton of liquid fuel puddling and in very odd places. that can only be either A) an electrical issue with all of B2, the coils not getting the juice to ignite spark plugs OR B) the timing is off enough that the injectors are squirting on the wrong cycle.
so yes, i cant agree more that either its time to pull the belt or valve cover to determine if both banks are at TDC together. you can look at marks all you want, but you are only going by the book. lord only knows what the last guy did or didnt do.
now imagine there is no belt, are there marks on the crank pulley, and both cam sprockets that should all line up together at the same point and have a reference mark to match to on the block? gotta strip this problem down to basics.
so yes, i cant agree more that either its time to pull the belt or valve cover to determine if both banks are at TDC together. you can look at marks all you want, but you are only going by the book. lord only knows what the last guy did or didnt do.
now imagine there is no belt, are there marks on the crank pulley, and both cam sprockets that should all line up together at the same point and have a reference mark to match to on the block? gotta strip this problem down to basics.
ah, yes, the dowel technique... some day I will have to tell the embarrassing tale of how a piece of wood ended up in the cylinder of my bike... that was quite an adventure to get it out too...
duggy
SILVER Star
Wild guesses here but I have 3 of them. Headgasket bad on that bank, bent valves, or broken cam. Either way, it sounds like that head has to come off.
ah, yes, the dowel technique... some day I will have to tell the embarrassing tale of how a piece of wood ended up in the cylinder of my bike... that was quite an adventure to get it out too...
When I've used that method it's in a situation where there's a good chance the head is coming off so the risk has been worth it. But yes, that would suck to drop something down and have to fish it out, haha.
The 5vz pin looks about right, if half in the hole and half sticking out. If that 5vz pin is same as 2UZ, then there's no way it is just out of the hole - it would be sticking out so far you'd never get that cam nut tightened down against the pulley. My best guess it is broke off, the longer piece is now visible and contacting the cam nut, and the camshaft has spun out of position. The cam pulley looks aligned with mark since the belt keeps it aligned with the crank and other cam, but the actual cam is not. Pretty sure that's what everyone seems to be saying.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #59
Okay I pulled the cam sprocket with Cairo (owner) here.
To get sprocket off, I wrapped an old timing belt around the sprocket to protect it, and then my big old chain wrench. Then got out big boy, my 3/4" Beaker Bar. Got all ready to muscle it. With Cairo on the chain wrench and me on big-boy. Dank it nearly cam off by it self. really i could have taken off with a 1/4" socket wrench, maybe a pair off pliers. Should have check it first think after I had found other bolts not torque. The mechanic likely put in long day, and was assembling tried.
So once he fired it up, the knock pin sheared.
To get sprocket off, I wrapped an old timing belt around the sprocket to protect it, and then my big old chain wrench. Then got out big boy, my 3/4" Beaker Bar. Got all ready to muscle it. With Cairo on the chain wrench and me on big-boy. Dank it nearly cam off by it self. really i could have taken off with a 1/4" socket wrench, maybe a pair off pliers. Should have check it first think after I had found other bolts not torque. The mechanic likely put in long day, and was assembling tried.
So once he fired it up, the knock pin sheared.
And so torque held it in place for a while, but little by little the cam slipped backward, making the valves close late and read low compression.
Assuming no other damage was done, that should run like new once corrected. Ain’t no way a dealer would’ve bothered to dig this far.
A collective fist bump for the internet mechanics.
Assuming no other damage was done, that should run like new once corrected. Ain’t no way a dealer would’ve bothered to dig this far.
A collective fist bump for the internet mechanics.
