Timing Belt for Dummies writeup (8 Viewers)

[1997 FZJ80 40th]

Okay - so I am about to place my parts order with Cdan and commence the Timing Belt replacement, water pump and other related 90k tasks for my wife's 2006 LX470. I've done the requisite Mud searches and have read and re-read this thread as well as Spressomon's thread several times
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/148025-90k-starter-replacement-job.html

Before I get into this too far - has anyone else done this to a more recent year 100 or LX470 that can chime in, particularly to a 2UZ-FE with the VVT-i (Variable Valve Timing) that LCs and LX470s recieved in 2006?

If so, are there any major differences in carrying out the Timing Belt replacement, water pump replacement, etc. versus the 2003 2UZ-FE (described in this thread)? I have the FSM and will be following it closely and of course will make sure all parts purchased are correct for my 2006, but - in the broader sense - what if any differences can I expect?

This will be my first major wrenching project on my wife's LX470 although I regularly tackle tasks on my 97 FZJ80.

 

[OregonLC]

Haven't done tbelt on 2uz vvti but have done belts on other variable valve timing engines and it doesn't make any difference. With the engine off there is no oil pressure to advance the timing. Regardless, the only thing that matters is if the marks on the belt align with the marks on the pulley.

 

[1997 FZJ80 40th]

Thanks for the feedback OregonLC. That makes sense. -James

 

[Chris Sandstorm FJ]

Super great write up, I gotta go with my local guy to do this but at least now I can follow along..

 

[skipdup]

Okay - so I am about to place my parts order with Cdan and commence the Timing Belt replacement, water pump and other related 90k tasks for my wife's 2006 LX470. I've done the requisite Mud searches and have read and re-read this thread as well as Spressomon's thread several times
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/148025-90k-starter-replacement-job.html

Before I get into this too far - has anyone else done this to a more recent year 100 or LX470 that can chime in, particularly to a 2UZ-FE with the VVT-i (Variable Valve Timing) that LCs and LX470s recieved in 2006?

If so, are there any major differences in carrying out the Timing Belt replacement, water pump replacement, etc. versus the 2003 2UZ-FE (described in this thread)? I have the FSM and will be following it closely and of course will make sure all parts purchased are correct for my 2006, but - in the broader sense - what if any differences can I expect?

This will be my first major wrenching project on my wife's LX470 although I regularly tackle tasks on my 97 FZJ80.

How'd it go? Any differences?
I just bought an '06 LX yesterday and might do the TB/WP myself.

Thanks,
Skip

 

[scottm]

I did the timing belt on my father-in-law's Sequoia with VVT, there was no difference except we didn't do cam seals. In fact, he didn't want to change anything but the belt despite my advice otherwise. I'm hoping I don't get a call from somewhere half-way to Florida when his waterpump dies and takes out the timing belt.

 

[OregonLC]

Anyone have the PN for the cam seals? Can't seem to get them to pull up on the parts page.

 

[Copenhagen1]

Anyone have the PN for the cam seals? Can't seem to get them to pull up on the parts page.

90311-38065

Mine is a 2001. Not sure if it makes a difference...

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[OregonLC]

90311-38065

Mine is a 2001. Not sure if it makes a difference...

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Thanks! Should be the same PN L/R correct?

 

[Copenhagen1]

Thanks! Should be the same PN L/R correct?

Definitely the same part # left and right. I bought 2 of the same. About $12.50 +/- each from Sam at Lowe Toyota.

 

[OregonLC]

Quick question. Trying to make sure I have everything needed for t-belt/water pump. FSM shows a "seal packing" 08826-00100 part. This is just FIPG/Permatex, no? Comes up as a $63 part.

 

[APKhaos]

Quick question. Trying to make sure I have everything needed for t-belt/water pump. FSM shows a "seal packing" 08826-00100 part. This is just FIPG/Permatex, no? Comes up as a $63 part.

Yep. FSM specifies a bead of FIPG. There's a machined groove in the casting, and that's where it goes.

 

[scottm]

I used Permatex with activator. When I looked my work over a couple days later I thought I had crusty red coolant around that joint, it was just red Permatex, probably should get in there and shave that off.

 

[Mark SR.]

Great write-up, scottm! I thank you for taking the time to post this. The only thing I did differently is I took just the pulley off of the power steering pump. This allowed the unbolting of the alternator to move it aside, as only the pulley is in the way. This saved a small step. Thanks again.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Anyone ever jambed a wrench and bumped the starter to loosen the pulley bolt? I was forced to once on my Camry when stranded. Worked. Unorthodox, but it worked.

 

[lesgarten]

Anyone ever jambed a wrench and bumped the starter to loosen the pulley bolt? I was forced to once on my Camry when stranded. Worked. Unorthodox, but it worked.

That's been described here well as a last resort.

Scares me though.

I finally got mine off with a LONG length of pipe on my breaker bar. Much more than I dreamed would be necessary.

I was really ticked off because I bought a Snap-on 1/2" Impact and was sure that Bright Red behemoth would zip it off so fast it fly into fragments. Wouldn't budge it!

 

[KuroCruiser]

Before I get into this too far - has anyone else done this to a more recent year 100 or LX470 that can chime in, particularly to a 2UZ-FE with the VVT-i (Variable Valve Timing) that LCs and LX470s recieved in 2006?

If so, are there any major differences in carrying out the Timing Belt replacement, water pump replacement, etc. versus the 2003 2UZ-FE (described in this thread)? I have the FSM and will be following it closely and of course will make sure all parts purchased are correct for my 2006, but - in the broader sense - what if any differences can I expect?
.

I just finished up the 90k on my '06 and wanted to chime in on the VVTi version of the engine. As scottm said earlier, there are no critical differences to the job on a VVTi engine. There are two points I found to be a bit different:

First, you can't change the cam seals on the VVTi engine during this service. Unlike the standard version, the '06+ camshafts have the VVTi actuators mounted in front of the cams and can't be removed without removal of the cams themselves. From what I've read, trying to dismantle the actuator from the outside will destroy it. You can see the actuators here in this shot of the VVTi engine. They have timing marks just like the normal ones: they just look different and can't be removed.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/ptq/atk853a-1.jpg

Second, the VVTi cam / crank alignment was a little different than what I've read for the standard engine. It sounded like aligning the standard engine crank to TDC would also align the cam marks. Aligning the cam marks on the VVTi engine left the crank at about 10° before TDC. I would guess this is to give the VVTi more room to play with. I also read (after the job of course) that once you have the engine aligned, you're supposed to mark the crank and belts, then rotate the crank forward (clockwise) to about 50° past TDC (there's a small nub on the engine designating is point). This supposedly puts the cams in a neutral position allowing easier mounting of the belt. The cams at TDC have a good deal of spring tension from the valve train on them, making fine adjustments a pain. I'll try the 50° past TDC on my next run.

Otherwise it all went just like Scottm and Spressomon's post show. My thanks to both of you for these excellent instructions.

I did this job at ~96,000mi and replaced the water pump, TB and Serp idlers, tensioners, main rad hoses, and heater tees as well. Water pump was in good shape with no sign of leakage (replaced anyway) and the rest was just PM.

Oh, and be sure to follow Spresso's advice here https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=2034290&postcount=9. Despite reading this twice I still managed to forget that dust shield and had to take the fan bracket off again to mount it.

 

[rhino8005]

anyone seen this before

Great write up, allowed this one
guy to take this job on. Bearings went out in my fan bracket and while removing the parts noticed a problem with my TB. I found what looked like roller bearings wedged in the crank pulley. i am replacing everything with new parts , but where did these come from?

 

[1997 FZJ80 40th]

Wow - my first reaction to seeing your timing belt damage is "Carnage!" However, its funny all the discussions about evaluating any fraying or superficial hairline cracks when yours appears to have been doing its job even after being severely compromised. I did mine in October and at 128k, my timing belt looked pristine. I will be posting some pictures and comments in this thread soon. This thread and the FSM made the job straightforward.

 

[scottm]

I agree with the Wow, what the heck? Could they have come from the fan bracket bearings? I'd sure like to know. Is this the first timing belt change? What mileage?

I didn't change my fan bracket bearings, explained my reasoning in my post earlier, but it is a gamble for sure.