Timing Belt for Dummies writeup

[scottm]

The thermostat housing needs to have the old sealant scraped off and new applied. My FSM mentions packing going in this groove, I scraped it all out and used this stuff. I cleaned this surface with a sharpening stone soaked in WD-40 after scraping it with a plastic scraper, then cleaned and applied sealant. I put the red sealant in the groove leaving it over-filled so it would spread out, and sprayed the activator onto the waterpump side of this joint. The activator is recommended when joining aluminum to aluminum. Note the new O-ring.

 

[scottm]

I didn’t buy new serpentine idlers, because I’m oh-so-clever and knew I could get the bearings for $5. Or maybe not. The front of the tensioner idler bearing is nice and easy to see (left-hand threaded bolt here). The back of the pulley has a flange all the way around so you can’t easily press the bearing out without possibly damaging the pulley. It’s a stamped steel pulley, I can get the bearing out, but it’s a pretty flimsy structure and if I bend it slightly I might not know ‘till the truck is running. The other idler is steel with a machined lip around the back, also challenging. And the fan bearing under that four-bolt flange, I have no idea how that can be accessed. All three are as big or bigger than the bearings in the alternator, smog pump, and A/C, which I won’t be replacing either. So I returned my bearings and re-used the idlers without replacing the bearings.

 

[scottm]

It started and ran, and is not leaking anything a week later that I’ve noticed. So I guess I did alright for a newbie. Hopefully my pics will help someone else figure out what goes where when reassembling.

 

[Cruzer_89]

Hats off to you man, that looks like a big job...

 

[bamachem]

Awesome write-up.

 

[e9999]

Very nice writeup and pics. Thanks for taking the time. I'm putting this one in the FAQ.

 

[4Peanut]

Nice write up Scott! I'll definitely be referring to this in the future.

 

[CappyKD]

Nice write-up.

 

[darrelwallac]

Thanks for the great write up and pics.

 

[agomez]

nice work scott!!!

 

[scottm]

Thanks! This wasn't that hard, just pulling a puzzle apart and putting it back together. None of the fasteners were all that difficult, no real special tools, no special skills. Nothing to get adjusted correctly. It's just time consuming and fascinating. I did have the full shop manual (FSM) for an '04 on memory stick, that helped some, and I've done timing belts on Subarus, the front crank seal on my 80, waterpump on my BMW. This was probably the easiest after the BMW, just because nothing was rusty or stuck.

 

[dfrelich]

Woe is me...

Sorry to hijack this thread. -- Should I make separate post?

I'm doing the "90k" at the 110k. The previous owner had done the job about 6 years ago. I decided I'll do the other timing belt change because my truck is at 11 - 12 years now. I have a long trip scheduled in a few weeks.

Anyway, I followed this post along with spressomon's post. I have FSM. Tips between two posts are very handy. Allowed me to study before hand and I was able to move through the job quick.

I stopped right at the thermostat housing. I'm fuming. I carefully pried off the housing. And then the top part of the housing that hooks up to the block broke off.

I cannot pry off the piece from there. Any idea how? It looks like someone used some sort sealant or something.

I used this post's picture to show you where I broke off. Bottom two are my pictures.

Any idea how I can get this piece off?

 

[scottm]

Kind of hard to see on my cellphone, but heat is generally your friend for getting sealant to soften. Where are you? Maybe someone is nearby and has time to help. I'm stuck at a hotel in LA for 24 hours tomorrow, would like to wrench on a timing belt.

 

[hks3sgte]

Badass post. Just what this dummy needed.

 

[dfrelich]

Badass post. Just what this dummy needed.

Probably. To scare off others not to work on the timing belt change?

I'm located in Frederick, MD. Anyone nearby to help me out?

 

[agaisin]

some pick tools might help pry the leftover piece out? i'd be careful not to let any debris into the exposed inlet hole (maybe stuff it with a rag or something). wierd though cause that should have just been an o-ring in there, right? shouldn't have had sealant...

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I'm confused, you broke top of the neck, but it looks like in the bottom pic you have it on the bench. That whole piece is going to have to be replaced since it's broken, so what is it you're prying on?

 

[agaisin]

I think I see what's going on, but could be wrong.

To put it in the technical parts terms, it looks like part number 16355-50080 (front water bypass joint) has a piece of the water inlet housing's neck left it in it (16032-50110) - parts diagram here: http://www.lexuspartsnow.com/diagrams/small/792450/radiator-water-outlet-160622d.png

Now back to dfrelich's pics, the part in pic 1 is how the front bypass joint should look after the water inlet was removed. Pic 2 is the bypass joint with the piece of the water inlet housing neck + sealant or o ring in it, pic 3 is the water inlet housing on the bench.

If I'm understanding correctly, I can appreciate being freaked out by the situation, but I can't imagine it being that hard to pry off the remaining piece (I'm picturing using picks or screwdriver to get b/w the two parts for leverage etc).

And I guess you'll at least need a new water inlet housing. If you really can't get the piece out I guess you can replace both the water inlet housing and the front water bypass joint? If you replace these pieces make sure to get whatever other gaskets you need - looks like there's two gaskets for the front bypass joint 16341-50020 x 2.

 

[dfrelich]

agaisin

you are correct on what you're seeing.

It is just a piece of housing's neck left in. Attached are 3 pictures to give you an idea. Nothing is broken with what's left on the block (just little piece that's sitting in there).

You'll see that the sealant were used. Not o-ring. I guess this is why the neck cracked? I don't know. When I pried off the housing, I did not feel like I was forcing anything. When I got it out and I was surprised to see piece sitting in there.

I'll need to remove piece by heating the area. Also I'll need to buy the part tomorrow when the shop opens.

Also when I tried to loosen the pulley bolt and it was damn hard. Looks like over-torqued. My home made pulley holder gave out. I'll need to make the holder thicker than what I had lying around. I used 1/8 aluminum plate. I'll need to find 1/4 or something.

I think the mechanic that did the job last time did not follow everything to the book.

 

[haryv]

Take it to a weld shop. They should be able to weld it back together.

Scott. Nice thread. If I ever come across one of these vehicles to do a timming belt change, I will know what to expect outside of alldata. BTW, I assume you did a spin test on all the pulleys that have bearings in them?

A pulley that will free spin for a few seconds, even if it has no play or noise is a pull that will fail "no grease left in between ball bearings"