Timing Belt for Dummies writeup (5 Viewers)

[PabloCruise]

You can see where someone previously buggered up the factory hose clamp, left it in place and used a worm gear clamp. The replacement hose is coming tomorrow.

Unfortunately, I had to destroy the small hose that goes from the bypass pipe up to the throttle body, so I get to see if the dealer has this in stock as well.

I am thinking I should just replace the 3rd oil cooler hose (the longest one that connects direct to the throttle body) while I am waiting for parts. The throttle body gasket looks old as well, so replace that!

This part was really frustrating - to get the front coolant bypass pipe out I had to pull the front fuel pipe that shares fuel with the passenger side fuel rail.

 

[PabloCruise]

I finally separated the thermostat housing from the bypass pipe, but I did not have enough time to clean off the old FIPG and lay in a new bead.

I thought it would be good to get the new water pump in and timing belt on, but I was hesitant to rush things out of concern that I would miss something if I got in a hurry.

Will I cause myself any problems if I finish the timing belt process - install lower belt cover, guide washer/reluctor, crank pulley and tensioner before I replace the thermostat housing?

 

[PabloCruise]

I ask the above, ^^^ b/c the instructions for the kit say to install the guide washer, lower belt cover, and crank pulley, and then serpentine belt tensioner and alternator (and then PS pump) before the timing belt tensioner.

 

[PabloCruise]

I notice the instructions that come with the Aisin kit leave out mention of moving the PS pump before the alternator, and the serpentine belt tensioner mechanism.

You need to remove the serp belt tensioner to get the timing belt off, and you need to remove the alternator before removing the serp belt tensioner.

 

[PabloCruise]

Here you can see the alternator must be moved to get the serpentine tensioner out:

 

[PabloCruise]

Last thought for the morning - as I was contemplating next steps, I saw this view - pretty cool!

 

[flintknapper]

This is as far as I got yesterday - new thermostat in, new water pump on, and timing belt in place:
View attachment 2820712
View attachment 2820713
View attachment 2820715
View attachment 2820716
View attachment 2820717

PERFECT...........!

 

[flintknapper]

Tensioner is NOT on yet.

This slowed me down quite a bit - I could not separate the thermostat housing from the front coolant bypass pipe:

View attachment 2820718

Yeah, mine actually broke off and I had to replace it. It had been 'siliconed' in place (water pump also) when the previous belt had been replaced (by a dealership no less).

 

[2001LC]

Trick to removing water inlet, is a rubber mallet. I've had some glued in and mallet has works every time (knock on wood)

I install timing belt tensioner, after T-belt and both it's pulleys installed and torqued in. I then rotor crank 720 degrees and check that timing marks (hard marks) are dead on. Which tensioner needs to be in for test. (Note: belt marks will not line up again, once crank turned). I use hard marks of crank sprocket and on oil pump housing.

Note also; cam timing marks are the straight lines, not the "T".
Crank hard marks, posting here again.

BTW: I set crank and cams marks dead on, before installing T- belt. Not the ~50 degrees. But either way works just fine.

Then: Lower cover & harmonic balance (crank pulley) along with the little plastic wedge and it's plastic gasket/seal.
Then: Fan bracket and work my way to drive belt tensioner as lower covers (plastic) are installed as I go..
Alternator & Vane pump.
3 Upper covers.
Oil cooler pipe and hoses
Fan clutch assembly & radiator shroud
Drive belt idler & belt.
Then water bypass joint front (if off), water inlet and thermostat & cap and hoses.
Coolant after FIPG 1282B set up, which FSM states as 20 minutes. I wait much longer before adding coolant (last)


BTW: Fuel line need not be removed, to R&R water bypass front. I just remove throttle body and slide the fuel line clamp after removing it's bolt.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I finally separated the thermostat housing from the bypass pipe, but I did not have enough time to clean off the old FIPG and pay in a new bead.

No FIPG goes there. O-ring only.

 

[2001LC]

I took as he meant "water inlet housing" groove. Terminology gets confusing sometimes

 

[scottm]

I took as he meant water inlet housing groove. Terminology gets confusing sometimes

View attachment 2821116

I used a red sealant there, looked like I had pink coolant leaking, always thought another color would have been better

 

[flintknapper]

I took as he meant water inlet housing groove. Terminology gets confusing sometimes

View attachment 2821116

Mine was siliconed at the O-Ring and the mating surfaces of the Water Pump too. Almost impossible to remove either item. And it was done at a dealership!

 

[PabloCruise]

Trick to removing water inlet, is a rubber mallet. I've had some glued in and mallet has works every time (knock on wood)

I install timing belt tensioner, after T-belt and both it's pulleys installed and torqued in. I then rotor crank 720 degrees and check that timing marks (hard marks) are dead on. Which tensioner needs to be in for test. (Note: belt marks will not line up again, once crank turned). I use hard marks of crank sprocket and on oil pump housing.
View attachment 2820841
Note also; cam timing marks are the straight lines, not the "T".
Crank hard marks, posting here again.
View attachment 2820832

BTW: I set crank and cams marks dead on, before installing T- belt. Not the ~50 degrees. But either way works just fine.

Then: Lower cover & harmonic balance (crank pulley) along with the little plastic wedge and it's plastic gasket/seal.
Then: Fan bracket and work my way to drive belt tensioner as lower covers (plastic) are installed as I go..
Alternator & Vane pump.
3 Upper covers.
Oil cooler pipe and hoses
Fan clutch assembly & radiator shroud
Drive belt idler & belt.
Then water bypass joint front (if off), water inlet and thermostat & cap and hoses.
Coolant after FIPG 1282B set up, which FSM states as 20 minutes. I wait much longer before adding coolant (last)


BTW: Fuel line need not be removed, to R&R water bypass front. I just remove throttle body and slide the fuel line clamp after removing it's bolt.

Wow, a rubber mallet, that sounds interesting in the engine compartment!

From the FSM page it looks like after the t-belt tensioner is installed (and pin pulled), they crank the engine over 2 revolutions with just the crank bolt in place, not the crank pulley. I like this idea, but I am afraid of turning the engine counter-clockwise when I loosen the bolt? I would hit the wrench very quickly/sharply to minimize turning risk.

Understood that the marks on the belt will not line up again for many revolutions, but look at the marks on the crank and cam sprockets.

What little plastic wedge? Are you talking about the dust cover - little triangle piece of plastic? I put that in after water pump, before T-belt. I did not want to forget!

3 upper covers? I thought there were just 2 - the L & R hand cam gear covers?

When do you tuck the wiring in place? I am convinced that the last people in there did not do things in a very tidy manner with the wiring.

Thank you for confirming that I can worry about the the thermostat housing later...

 

[PabloCruise]

No FIPG goes there. O-ring only.

I took as he meant water inlet housing groove. Terminology gets confusing sometimes

View attachment 2821116

Sorry, I should write more carefully.

Yes, o-ring only on the round inlet, FIPG on the rectangle hole!

 

[PabloCruise]

Nice weather out for another hour, I am going to get some more work done!

Thanks all...

 

[PabloCruise]

Getting ready to pull the pin!

 

[flintknapper]

Wow, a rubber mallet, that sounds interesting in the engine compartment!

From the FSM page it looks like after the t-belt tensioner is installed (and pin pulled), they crank the engine over 2 revolutions with just the crank bolt in place, not the crank pulley.

Correct. Look for your witness marks to match up...indicating all is well (timing).

I like this idea, but I am afraid of turning the engine counter-clockwise when I loosen the bolt? I would hit the wrench very quickly/sharply to minimize turning risk.

Yes, just bump the wrench/ratchet/breaker bar. I also 'lightly' clamped the belt to the passenger side cam pulley on mine with a padded pair of vice grips. I wanted to be sure nothing would move and it didn't.

Understood that the marks on the belt will not line up again for many revolutions, but look at the marks on the crank and cam sprockets.

Correct.
ALL of the marks will not line up for many, many, many.....revolutions. But the marks on the crank will.

What little plastic wedge? Are you talking about the dust cover - little triangle piece of plastic? I put that in after water pump, before T-belt. I did not want to forget!

The 'rodent blocker', yes.

3 upper covers? I thought there were just 2 - the L & R hand cam gear covers?

Left and Right and middle center.

When do you tuck the wiring in place? I am convinced that the last people in there did not do things in a very tidy manner with the wiring.

Cam position sensor wire is the one you want to watch for. IF not placed back and secured correctly the serpentine belt will rub on it.

 

[PabloCruise]

Correct. Look for your witness marks to match up...indicating all is well (timing).

You guys are awesome!
All looks to be well after ~4 revolutions:

 

[PabloCruise]

Left and Right and middle center.

I forgot about the middle cover!