Timing Belt for Dummies writeup (8 Viewers)

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I think you reach the bolts through the openings in the pulley
That sounds like the PS pump to me.

AC compressor has 3 bolts securing it from the driver side. The back one is right behind the oil dipstick tube. You don’t have to remove the back bolt, jus loosen. The front 2 bolts mount the AC compressor to the fan bracket - these bolts need to be free from the threads in the fan bracket.
 
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My project took a turn when I assessed the bearing in the fan bracket, it was a little scratchy. No play in the bearing. Oil visible on the back. List price locally is over $400!

D70375CF-A9E0-4E7E-BCF0-E061747EFF8B.jpeg
 
My project took a turn when I assessed the bearing in the fan bracket, it was a little scratchy. No play in the bearing. Oil visible on the back. List price locally is over $400!

View attachment 2819705

DON'T buy locally or from dealer. Get the Aisin fan bracket, should run about a C-note. Good idea to change it out now as to do it later has you about 2/3rds the way to a TB job.

Fan Bracket LX470_1.jpg

Fan Bracket1.jpg
 
If factory seals aren't leaking, I'd do not touch them. I've yet to see crank or cam seals leaking or even weeping, unless they've been replaced or "HIGH Mileage Oil (very damaging to seals)" used. If leak does develop over next 90K, it will be very minor. It can always be replaced next T-belt job.

The most common leak I find, is tensioner pulley bolt (No. 1 timing belt idler). Which goes into oil pump housing. Only because last T-belt job, threads were not sealed with sealant. I typically use Toyota FIPG 102 or 103 0il, but any oil rated thread sealant will work. Just don't use a permanent one like red loctite.
Oil pump housing, idler pulley assembly bolt hole weep.
View attachment 2811222


You'll for sure find pitting on the block under water pump gasket. Do not file on block as shown in thread. Use wire brush, green scratch pad, etc. and degreasers. Getting gasket mating surface and pits cleaned out. Then fill pits with FIPG 1282B, scrape flush to block, let cure before assemble.


BTW: The lower fan bracket bolt that goes through AC compressor, made easy.
View attachment 2811199
Make sure to put the little cover spacer & gasket back on, after water pump installed and before fan bracket install.
View attachment 2811201

View attachment 2811208

I find this clip busted from previous service very often.
View attachment 2811220

This picture from the quoted post shows very well how to remove the lower, front AC compressor mount bolt:

ac-bolt-3-jpg.2811199


There are 3 bolts mounting the AC compressor, all accessed from the driver side of the compressor.
None of them are easy to access. The front 2 need to loosen until they are completely free of the threads in the fan bracket.
The rear mount bolt for the AC compressor is reached from above by reaching back behind the oil dipstick tube. I only loosened this bolt, I did not remove. That was enough to move the AC compressor so the fan bracket could come out.

AFAIK, you do not need to remove the oil filter for this project. But I am not finished yet either!
 
My pulley holder is still around and available, I've mailed it out to other mud members. I'm pretty sure the bolts taped into it are for the 100 pulley.
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Although I think I might be delayed on this as well.

This hose down by the oil cooler looks like it is starting to bulge.

Another one of those "might as well while you are in there":

View attachment 2819878

Pulled my Oil Cooler when I did my steering rack and replaced all the hoses and seals in the cooler. A couple of the hoses were soft from having oil leak on them and my Oil cooler was leaking slightly from a dried out seal.

Oill Cooler Parts1.jpg
 
My pulley holder is still around and available, I've mailed it out to other mud members. I'm pretty sure the bolts taped into it are for the 100 pulley.
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My pulley holder is still around and available, I've mailed it out to other mud members. I'm pretty sure the bolts taped into it are for the 100 pulley.
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100 series 4.7L are 65mm apart, 80 series 4.5L are 90mm apart. It looks like your tool has both.
 
100 series 4.7L are 65mm apart, 80 series 4.5L are 90mm apart. It looks like your tool has both.
Yes, I've used it for both. Plenty of room for more holes.

I can also bring it with me as I travel, next week I'm in chicago, San Antonio and Newark.
 
List price locally is over $400!
DON'T buy locally or from dealer. Get the Aisin fan bracket, should run about a C-note. Good idea to change it out now as to do it later has you about 2/3rds the way to a TB job.

View attachment 2819857
View attachment 2819859
Just an FYI: All you’d be getting for that 100% markup by buying from Toyota dealer is their logo stamped on the part. Below is an Aisin fan bracket I got a few months ago for a 3vze (Toyota’s $hittiest engine ever produced). Note the “TOYOTA” etched out. This part is $345 with TOYOTA stamped next to AISIN, but is just $115 with TOYOTA scratched off. Same part, same OEM manufacturer. Buy wisely, friends…

AAE69952-9895-4A19-B2AD-7B8B3BDC766A.jpeg


1CF6BFB0-F1BD-4BEB-A62C-9E650C759B32.jpeg
 
Just an FYI: All you’d be getting for that 100% markup by buying from Toyota dealer is their logo stamped on the part. Below is an Aisin fan bracket I got a few months ago for a 3vze (Toyota’s $hittiest engine ever produced). Note the “TOYOTA” etched out. This part is $345 with TOYOTA stamped next to AISIN, but is just $115 with TOYOTA scratched off. Same part, same OEM manufacturer. Buy wisely, friends…

View attachment 2820573

View attachment 2820574

$230.00 labor to scratch off Toyota DOES seem a little steep. ;)
 

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