Timing Belt for Dummies writeup (2 Viewers)

[abuck99]

LB thanks,

I wondered about the end quality of the Aisin components being better or worse than the Gates product. I'm in the process of checking the origin of the Gates components, so far i've found the belts & pulley's are US made, but appears the water pump is made in China.

I look at the Aisin kit, which is a Chinese company. Hows the aftermarket quality? I understand that Toyota owns a percentage of Aisin, who in turn supplies some OEM Toyota production parts, but who knows if what's sold in the aftermarket is the same spec as whats sold for production to Toyota (in my experience probably not).

 

[jaymidwest]

LB thanks,

I wondered about the end quality of the Aisin components being better or worse than the Gates product. I'm in the process of checking the origin of the Gates components, so far i've found the belts & pulley's are US made, but appears the water pump is made in China.

I look at the Aisin kit, which is a Chinese company. Hows the aftermarket quality? I understand that Toyota owns a percentage of Aisin, who in turn supplies some OEM Toyota production parts, but who knows if what's sold in the aftermarket is the same spec as whats sold for production to Toyota (in my experience probably not).

I spent a few hours researching topic and aisin is oem quality and a lot of times come stock on new toyotas...there is a kit on eBay for 180-200 comes with tensioner ,and pulleys koyo,I believe which are also oem..so I wouldn't have any concerns and Mitsubishi is a good belt from what I read..as far as Chinese origin,from what I read it's all Japanese same as toyota

 

[bucfl]

I just ordered everything from @cruiserdan. I have the parts list if you need it for a 01.

 

[nicholas]

I wouldn't recommend using dielectric grease on the hoses. I did and I had the new DS radiator hose one pop off the new Toyota radiator after ~20 miles of driving. Luckily it happened on my way into the parking garage at work and not on the freeway 10 min earlier. I re-used the OEM clamps so I'm not sure if that played into it.

 

[scottm]

I wouldn't recommend using dielectric grease on the hoses. I did and I had the new DS radiator hose one pop off the new Toyota radiator after ~20 miles of driving. Luckily it happened on my way into the parking garage at work and not on the freeway 10 min earlier. I re-used the OEM clamps so I'm not sure if that played into it.

Yike, glad it didn't cause more problems than that. I have wondered if greasing the hoses could let them pop off, but I've lightly greased a lot of coolant hoses over the years, used the old clamps when possible, haven't had one pop off.

 

[nicholas]

Yike, glad it didn't cause more problems than that. I have wondered if greasing the hoses could let them pop off, but I've lightly greased a lot of coolant hoses over the years, used the old clamps when possible, haven't had one pop off.

Yeah it was great as a lube especially for the small hoses in tight spaces. I lucked out, it only cost me $30 in Toyota red and an hour in the parking garage to clean and wipe the grease off the 2 big radiator hoses. Funny thing was is that I distinctly remembered checking my temp gauge as I turned into the parking garage and it was in the middle. I turned off the truck and as I was getting out I noticed a slight steam vapor rolling over the hood. Turned the truck back on and temp was still in the middle so it must have blown off at just the right time before I parked it. Luckily I was at the end of my call shift and didn't need to rush over to another facility.

Needless to say it was the straw that broke the camels back and I ended up selling it last week. I had spent well over 100 hours and $2-3K baselining it recently. While this was a minor setback, I just don't have the time to wrench anymore and I need to be able to get across town within 30min or less, so no time for minor hiccups like that. I'm keeping my 80 as a weekend warrior and I will commute with our Camry and the Mrs. will drive her 2016 4skinner.

Thanks for the tips in this writeup, it was very helpful!

 

[OregonLC]

The Camry doesn't have hoses that pop off when greased? Sounds like you'd ran the ball to 1st and goal with your baseline efforts. The 100 is about as reliable as they come. Now if you drove the Camry for fuel economy...

 

[Kris VW]

Thanks for the write up. I had a coolant leak after doing mine. The water pump studs confused me so I thought I would tear down to reach the bolts I could to make sure I had tightened them.

I got to several and tightened some, could not reach all. I left the timing belt on. It still leaked.

I bought a new gasket and tore down again including the TB, but could not remove the inlet housing (I forgot the rubber hammer suggestion) so I tightened the remaining. it still leaked. I needed the truck for work and it used about a gallon or so of water for my 4 hour afternoon.

I tore down again and it is fixed. I got the torque # here (15 ft. lbs.). I noticed the 3/4" o-ring was torn, so that may have been the problem.

4 things, 1) You do not need to remove the fan and shroud, just detach the fan from pulley and tuck it against the radiator in the shroud. You can move it around if needed. 2) The lower side bolt for the fan bracket can be accessed with 16" inches or so of extensions through the axle area. Leave the bolt up there after release. 3) Remove the inlet housing before the fan bracket, it gives you an extra pry point. 4) The timing belt pre-tensioner piston can be pressed with a 6" c-clamp.

Kris

 

[Topoguide]

Great write up! With this and the FSM I was able to do the job with no problems... other than having to replace so many parts.

I have 165,000 on mine. This is the first 90k service. The belt looked like new, but all of the bearings were shot and making noise, and the pump was leaking a bit. It is notable that the fan bracket was bad, this is what caused me to finally do the service (and from the look of a previous post I'm glad I stopped driving it when it started making noise)

If you are wondering if you should do the job whout the special tool... DON'T - JUST FABRICATE THE TOOL. It will make your life much easier. I tried without, but wound up fabricating one and it is the only way to get the job done. - the bolts I used were 8x1.25 and 50mm long. I used flange bolts.

I also found that to torque the cam pulleys you can use the tool you fabricated with the right nuts and bolts use this tool to hold the pulleys still while you torque the pulleys back on. I only needed a 40 mm long bolt, but the flange bolts didn't work, so I used a regular head with a not on each side of the tool to make the bolt solid.

Also - I rebuilt the starer at the same time. That IMO was harder than the timing belt/water pump. I hope it lasts for one or two more belt changes!

 

[ujz100]

no wonder they last forever, you guys don't allow them to fall apart....lol...sorry I am a newbie and couldn't pass the chance to throw that in. But seriously, i bought mine last night, a 2000 white LC with only 127k on it...yes its immaculate....and very excited to learn about these vehicles.

 

[Nitram]

Question for those who have done this. What happened when you pulled the pin on your new tensioner?

Let me explain. I bought the Aisin kit, everything went pretty smooth with the exception of a pre stripped bolt on the idler pulley. I installed the tensioner and pulled the pin, didn't hear a click or see the tensioner pulley move. I was able to slide the pin back in, but it could have just been going to the side of the piston. There seemed to be plenty of tension on the belt. Tried to slide a razor blade between the tensioner and pulley, I couldn't. I didn't want to take it back out, having no way to reload it. There wasn't any sign of fluid having leaked out of it at some point. Should I be concerned?

It's back together now and running better than before, no more water pump rattle! I'm pretty sure I can replace this thing from underneath without having to go deep. Just looking for someone with some knowledge.

1999 with 150k.

 

[fooldall1]

I'm leaning toward the Aisin kit for obvious reasons.

What's you Guys' thoughts on the Contitech Kit? I'm hearing very good things.

 

[lesgarten]

I had a Hard time getting my crankbolt off the first time.

Have any of you guys used one of these?

Ingersoll Rand S64M19L-PS1 19mm Power Socket - - Amazon.com

 

[LBridges]

I had a Hard time getting my crankbolt off the first time.

Have any of you guys used one of these?

Ingersoll Rand S64M19L-PS1 19mm Power Socket - - Amazon.com

I used one of these to hold the crank (with a half-inch breaker bar on it). Then a regular impact socket (in place of what you are suggesting), another 1/2" breaker, plus two 3-foot long pieces of galvanized pipe (one on each breaker bar). Then just pulled on one pipe while pushing on the other - worked well for me, but then maybe I was just lucky.

 

[lesgarten]

I used one of these to hold the crank (with a half-inch breaker bar on it). Then a regular impact socket (in place of what you are suggesting), another 1/2" breaker, plus two 3-foot long pieces of galvanized pipe (one on each breaker bar). Then just pulled on one pipe while pushing on the other - worked well for me, but then maybe I was just lucky.

That's exactly how I did it as well last time. And I mean exactly!

However this time I was hoping I could just go Zippppp and it's off.

 

[lesgarten]

What size is the crankbolt on these?

 

[Parbo]

The pulleys do not allign. Just keep rotating clockwise untill they allign?

 

[Layonnn]

I'm reinstalling my belt right now and the FSM says to install the timing belt sprocket, then belt, then timing belt cover spacer, then the timing belt guide.
Is there supposed to be something between the gold sprocket (timing belt guide) and the timing pulley?!? I didn't see anything there when I took mine off and haven't seen anything in anyone's write ups.

 

[ton504]

I'm reinstalling my belt right now and the FSM says to install the timing belt sprocket, then belt, then timing belt cover spacer, then the timing belt guide.
Is there supposed to be something between the gold sprocket (timing belt guide) and the timing pulley?!? I didn't see anything there when I took mine off and haven't seen anything in anyone's write ups.

The plastic cover goes on after the belt and gold sprocket (for crank pos.) then the harmonic balancer/crank pulley.

 

[Layonnn]

The plastic cover goes on after the belt and gold sprocket (for crank pos.) then the harmonic balancer/crank pulley.

Okay that's what I did. Timing pulley, gold sprocket, plastic cover, crank pulley.
This is the step in the FSM I'm referring to, step 4, the next step is to install the timing belt guide, which is the gold sprocket piece, then install the number 1 cover.