Just got off phone with the dealer whom I will pick up the parts tomorrow, he went through their system and with the VIN and some part number suppression or something to that effect and told me the drive belt tensioner pulley is type "A" to fit my vehicle whatever that means. It doesn't state a size...
Timing Belt for Dummies writeup
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Type A (16603-0W010, our part# BELT0W010/BELT0W010AFT) is 102mm
Type B (16603-0W030, our part# BELT0W030/BELT0W030AFT) is 90mm
Type B (16603-0W030, our part# BELT0W030/BELT0W030AFT) is 90mm
We have run into customers that get interference with the large pulley, small belt. I'd have to search my brain to remember the exact vehicle/combo but this case is exactly why we had the cross-over year ones measure.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Interesting. Do you recall what interference was?
I saw two in last year, where pulley axis was off center, resulting in belt rub on tensioner housing. At first I thought bearing was not square in pulley, which happens. But found gap narrower at side of belt rub mark, between assembly connecting pulleys shaft to body. Causing axis to be out of alignment. I chocked it up to age. Both 03LX had high mileage, w/250 to 320K miles.
As the years go by, more and more hands touch these vehicle. I'm finding a number of different pulleys. Some OEM 100 series, others who knows where/what they're from. Going thought a pile I believe only OEM 100 series, I found 102MM & 90mm pulleys. Currently the New OEM tensioner I'm getting are the Toyota 16620-0W036, which have 90mm pulley.
Making note of which notch we're at when installing a new belt, is a clue as to which belt..
This tensioner from an 03LX ~250K miles was replaced with T-belt service. It had a gates belt T298 on it. The tensioner is believed to have been a factory installed. The belt had worn deep and long into the tensioner. The gap on same side as wear, was narrowest of the two I've seen this last year.
This tensioner, from a different 03LX with even more miles, at ~ 315K miles. Wear marks were not as deep or long, nor gap as narrow. But I had a picture of. You can see the gap, how it narrowed on wear side.
Some pulleys I've removed. I found two styles of the 102mm and one the 90mm.
Some notes I just started to keep:
Found differences in body & pulley of tensioner. The ones I've from 03-05 all have metal body and larger pulley 102mm w/back stop for bearing. Other used and new Toyota 16620-0W10 Canada Toyota w/PN on body have plastic & metal w/smaller pulley 90mm
With the other post about the pulley size I'm even more confused. So will the serpentine belt part number I listed above be too small to fit the Type A 102mm Tensioner Pulley? Since I'm not DIY but rather the mechanic is doing this job for me, I won't have the luxury of time and rather not pay twice in case it's the wrong fitment. Should I leave it alone and just change the serpentine belt? Is this easily accessible just pop the hood and have the dealer check when I pick up the part tomorrow?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Since with age we're seeing variation in what tensioner and pulleys installed. Using marks on tensioner, is helpful in checking fitment of a new belt.
Started the project on TB WP and possibly more. Worked on it two evening and I am close to the point to remove the timing belt. However I want to make sure it is all correct.
Read this thread, FSM and instructions from the AISIN kit. I set at TDC first and then I moved bit more to get to to T marks. It is bit surprising that there are not too many mentions about T mark. Let me know if this is all good before I proceed, please.
It is 2004 LC.
Read this thread, FSM and instructions from the AISIN kit. I set at TDC first and then I moved bit more to get to to T marks. It is bit surprising that there are not too many mentions about T mark. Let me know if this is all good before I proceed, please.
It is 2004 LC.
That is good to know. Mine seems to be bit off - maybe one tooth.
How did it look once crankshaft pulley was off?
How did it look once crankshaft pulley was off?
To confirm, this is a 2004 or a 1999? Your post says 2004 and your signature says 2004.
This work is on 2004 LC. I have 99 as well. Matter of fact have 4 LCs at this time. Don’t ask
Got it, here you go:
forum.ih8mud.com
Looks like Post 10 has it
Timing Belt at TDC or 50 Degrees?
I have been reading threads all over the place and keep finding different things for different years and I have seen people doing different things on the same model years! Please help, I'm not sure what to do next. (Everything has been fairly smooth to this point, knock on wood!) 1998 Land...
forum.ih8mud.com
Looks like Post 10 has it
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1. I counted the tooth between R cam mark and crankshaft mark and seems correct. 70. I think this will work. I will make work on the old belt before removing to have another reference point.
2. Have a question about the o rings. Kit came with two - one bit bigger. I know small one goes on the pipe coming from back of the engine connecting to water pump and the bigger one goes into water housing. Where does 3rd one go as I was under impression kit was short by one and I bought 96761-24019
3. Fan bracket - hopefully new one is not fake. I bought it from FB group member.
2. Have a question about the o rings. Kit came with two - one bit bigger. I know small one goes on the pipe coming from back of the engine connecting to water pump and the bigger one goes into water housing. Where does 3rd one go as I was under impression kit was short by one and I bought 96761-24019
3. Fan bracket - hopefully new one is not fake. I bought it from FB group member.
2001LC
SILVER Star
No 3rd O-ring. Small on cross over pipe, into back of Water pump. Use watery dish soap to lube O-rings during install. Large O-ring is used later for water inlet to water bypass.
Timing marks:
IMHO It's best to use the "hard" timing marks. For cams, those are the straight lines (not "T"). For the crank, it's the nipple on oil cover. These are the hard marks use to set cams and cranks, when starting from unknown position. Like during engine rebuild or belt break or no marks on belt.
The FSM mention a hint: 1/2 tooth CW after marks. I don't do this either. I set marks dead on during disassembly, and I do not move cams. I install tensioner pulley (idler #1) with sealant on bolt threads (don't forget to seal threads). Sometimes I install tensioner pulley (idler #1) after belt. I then place belt on, before Idler pulley (idler #2). Since belt, at this point it's very loose (no tension on belt at all). I use 3 tiny clamp to hold belt on each sprocket, so it doesn't move. Then I install idler pulley #2 (AKA driver side pulley, AKA "L", AKA LH, AKA left, AKA BK 1 pulley). Then tensioner and pull pin. Now simple spin crank 720 degrees CW. Hard marks line up. Done with timing.
We almost always end up moving crank. Using the hard mark (oil pump cover nipple). Makes setting TDC easy and sure.
The plastic nipple on lower timing belt cover is used with the "T" cam marks. These are there, because factory calls this and interference engine. We've case after case, which they've not interfered, in 98-05 (non VVT). VVT is interfering, so we do use more care.
This is 03-05. T marks, which I never bother with. As they requires lower belt cover and pulley (harmonic balance). I've already time and test before I get this far. By using hard marks. This plastic mark may be off a tad. Due to shifting or shrinkage/expansion of lower plastic cover, weak tensioner and or belt wear.
Tip: Keep in mind "L" (left) is your left, as you sit in driver seat. Or same as saying, left side of vehicle.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Thanks a lot Paul for the tips.
I have the 3 seals and thinking not to bother since I don’t see leaks. Valve covers are leaking which I think some of the oil is from there.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Hack for pitted blocks, under water pump gasket. Most all are pitted.
Clean block and pits. Apply 1282B FIPG, scrap flush with razor blade withing 3 minutes.
Let 1282B FIPG cure over night before installing water pump
BTW: I have a plug for tension pulley bolt hole on timing cover. I use during cleaning. To keep debris out of crack case, which hole opens to.
Only head cover gasket I could not stop leak, by just re-torquing. Where also replacement.
Clean block and pits. Apply 1282B FIPG, scrap flush with razor blade withing 3 minutes.
Let 1282B FIPG cure over night before installing water pump
BTW: I have a plug for tension pulley bolt hole on timing cover. I use during cleaning. To keep debris out of crack case, which hole opens to.
Yeah. Only crank/cams seals I've replaced to-date. Where replacements (not factory install) that were leaking. I really have never seen a factory install leak. Although on the VVT engine, which is a very big job to replace cam seals. We've seen a few RH cam seal, we "think" may be leaking. I say "Think" because we can not see the seals, like on the non VVT. One VVT I inspected only. We found what looks to be a sudden and bad LH cam leak. We found engine oil used in past, was HM (high mileage) oil. Stuff is kiss of death to rubber seals.
Only head cover gasket I could not stop leak, by just re-torquing. Where also replacement.
Can I use 82180 gasket maker as a sealant for idler pulley bolts? FSM says for both. Otherwise I have 242 locktite.
Partsouq is closed for 4 days. I might have to get Aisin AB1207B1 from Amazon.
Partsouq is closed for 4 days. I might have to get Aisin AB1207B1 from Amazon.
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