Timing Belt for Dummies writeup (2 Viewers)

[fussychicken]

You mean when I say "Banana Level?" I thought that was the accepted measurement stick around here for how hard a job is. . AKA I'd say this is a 2-3 banana level job based on your previous experience.

That being said, I'm not a banana expert. lol. Does the banana scale top out at 4 bananas?

 

[Patron100LC]

So wait, am I reading this right? The old seal that was in there was black? And the seal that Partsouq sent you was brown? What did the seal from your local Toyota dealer look like?

You post has now made me a little nervous as I had challenges installing a Partsouq main seal myself, but the one they sent me was black. And in contrast to you, it was very stiff. And the old one I had was brown. lol


My old one I took out:
View attachment 3481006




The new Partsouq "OEM" seal that I put in:
View attachment 3481007

Correct, I removed a Toyota seal and installed a Toyota seal, both black, on both you can read the part number (well, I can't but someone that has 20/20 vision can).
The brown seal I ordered became garbage after the 2nd try. That one has a brand logo stamped, like NGK or MBC or some other aftermarket label.
Luckily my local dealer had one in stock.

 

[lesgarten]

You mean when I say "Banana Level?" I thought that was the accepted measurement stick around here for how hard a job is. . AKA I'd say this is a 2-3 banana level job based on your previous experience.

That being said, I'm not a banana expert. lol. Does the banana scale top out at 4 bananas?

In lieu of what you said here, I get what you were saying. Thanks.

I thought, "Banana leveling" and there's a video describing the 18 hour "Banana Leveling" process. How is it I don't know what he's talking about!? And what does suspension have to do with this thread??

LOL

 

[gray rider]

I did not read the entire thread....Sorry......but has anyone had a timing belt failure (especially if they were negligent on replacing)?

 

[fussychicken]

Correct, I removed a Toyota seal and installed a Toyota seal, both black, on both you can read the part number (well, I can't but someone that has 20/20 vision can).
The brown seal I ordered became garbage after the 2nd try. That one has a brand logo stamped, like NGK or MBC or some other aftermarket label.
Luckily my local dealer had one in stock.

Interesting. Makes me wonder if mine had been replaced at one time...

In any case, I did get a black one from Partsouq, but point taken.

 

[flintknapper]

I did not read the entire thread....Sorry......but has anyone had a timing belt failure (especially if they were negligent on replacing)?

Its pretty rare for the belt to fail (not the result of a seized bearing in the water pump or pulleys) but it has happened.

More often....the water pump will seize and take out the belt. Or the water pump leaks (undetected or neglected) and coolant contaminates the bearings of the tensioner or idler pulley, again....taking out the timing belt.

 

[OConnor Ohana]

If that's Sealant I'm seeing on O-ring! OH NO Never use any Sealant on O-ring. If so Remove it and start again. Remember, you've 5 minutes (some instruction say 3 minutes) to install (torque in @ 13ft-lbf) water inlet housing, from moment you start applying sealant (FIPG 1282B).

Use soap water (Dove dish soap the best) to lube O-ring for install..

Not only will FIPG on or in place of rubber O-ring, make removal very difficult. It will also trap coolant in pockets and cause pitting & leaks.
View attachment 2825091
View attachment 2825092

PO used FIPG on oring. Found some pitting after cleaning as you described. Recommend purchasing new piece or will new oring do the trick? Haven't cleaned the female side yet, hoping no bad putting there.

 

[2001LC]

PO used FIPG on oring. Found some pitting after cleaning as you described. Recommend purchasing new piece or will new oring do the trick? Haven't cleaned the female side yet, hoping no bad putting there.

View attachment 3646084

Clean and see if pitting inner groove center flat area (inner side walls are not seal point), where O-ring wraps/seals. If so, I'd replace.

 

[94SRUNNER]

PO used FIPG on oring. Found some pitting after cleaning as you described. Recommend purchasing new piece or will new oring do the trick? Haven't cleaned the female side yet, hoping no bad putting there.

View attachment 3646084

I had this issues some years back and removed, cleaned, and install a new OEM o-ring. It was pitted some.

It held up well for several years, but has had a very minor seep for a year or so. I am due for the timing belt and water pump service, at that time I plan to replace the thermostat housing and the cross-over pipe to have fresh material to work with.

 

[GerLC100]

Perhaps a stupid question, perhaps answered somewhere.

I've not been in this situation, but my assumption is pump goes bad/ belt breaks/ ... and the temp goes up fairly quickly? What is a typical time frame?!?
whatever: when it happens you can see the needle raising and you have to catch it while driving.

Has anyone thought about/ implemented a warning sound at a certain temp? this way you don't need to actively monitor the needle, but would get a warning sound (with radio or a seperate speaker...whatever) and could potentially pull over, turn it off and see what's going in order to avoid serious problems.
Would that even possible to implement?!

 

[medtro]

Has anyone thought about/ implemented a warning sound at a certain temp? this way you don't need to actively monitor the needle, but would get a warning sound (with radio or a seperate speaker...whatever) and could potentially pull over, turn it off and see what's going in order to avoid serious problems.
Would that even possible to implement?!

Ultra-Gauge has this customized alarm feature.

 

[2001LC]

Perhaps a stupid question, perhaps answered somewhere.

I've not been in this situation, but my assumption is pump goes bad/ belt breaks/ ... and the temp goes up fairly quickly? What is a typical time frame?!?
whatever: when it happens you can see the needle raising and you have to catch it while driving.

Has anyone thought about/ implemented a warning sound at a certain temp? this way you don't need to actively monitor the needle, but would get a warning sound (with radio or a seperate speaker...whatever) and could potentially pull over, turn it off and see what's going in order to avoid serious problems.
Would that even possible to implement?!

Timing belt breaks, engine stops.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Has anyone thought about/ implemented a warning sound at a certain temp? this way you don't need to actively monitor the needle, but would get a warning sound (with radio or a seperate speaker...whatever) and could potentially pull over, turn it off and see what's going in order to avoid serious problems.
Would that even possible to implement?!

Audible sound no, visual yes - from my OBD Fusion App in the phone. This was from yesterday, outside ambient temp here in Vegas was approximately 110°F.

I customized my coolant temp segment to turn red at 198°F and higher.

 

[Fourrunner]

In the middle of doing my timing belt and want to confirm what I think is correct. When the LH and RH cam match the marks (not the "T" but long line) and the crank is at "0" mark, that means the engine is at TDC, correct?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

In the middle of doing my timing belt and want to confirm what I think is correct. When the LH and RH cam match the marks (not the "T" but long line) and the crank is at "0" mark, that means the engine is at TDC, correct?

Correct.

 

[Fourrunner]

I've not removed the harmonic dampener or the old belt yet. Just making sure my engine is in correct spot (~50 ATDC) before I do. So as it sits right now, the crank is aligned with 0, RH and LH cam marks aligned with long casting mark (not the T). This should be TDC.

 

[2001LC]

In the middle of doing my timing belt and want to confirm what I think is correct. When the LH and RH cam match the marks (not the "T" but long line) and the crank is at "0" mark, that means the engine is at TDC, correct?

LH (BK1) is your left as you sit in driver seat.

We've two primary ways, to setting time belt.
Note: Once belt, pulleys on and tensioner in. Spin crankshaft 720 degrees CW. Hard marks (cams & crank) should line up, but belt will no longer line up.

I use other "I",s or "T",s if non VVTi. I use "T",s if VVTi.
When on the "T",s cams don't jump, as they do if touched on the cams lined up on the "I",s. Which with VVti, I do not want any movement.

To the "I" As @OEMGUY0720 pictured.
Here crankshaft mark when cams marks point to the "I"

Here's cams lined up to the "T"s. Which then, we place crankshaft zero line of harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley), pointing to nub on lower cover. This is our safety zone, we use on VVTi engines, We can use on non VVT also if we like.

When harmonic balancer zero line on plastic nub. Crankshaft sprocket key & dimple, line up with center line of square on oil pump. Notice, how belts first two while line on belt, are on now sprocket.

 

[Fourrunner]

Awesome....that makes sense.

 

[menancyandsam]

My new inlet to the water pump came precoated with a gasket. My year calls for the green labeled 1282B gasket.
Should I run with this or scrape off and put on the 1282B.

 

[FamilyCamper]

My new inlet to the water pump came precoated with a gasket. My year calls for the green labeled 1282B gasket.
Should I run with this or scrape off and put on the 1282B.

View attachment 3904349

Just my two cents. Probably fine running that if they put it there its meant to hold up to the coolant. If its a toyota part definitely leave it. If its aftermarket and you have the 1282B then scrape off. If its aftermarket and you dont have the 1282B then its up to you but I would probably run it.