Builds The YotaMD Build - Cypress

[suprarx7nut]

Preview of AHC tuning results from tonight. Front looks great! Rear should be just fine once King springs go on.

Took 3 turns of the TB to correct front pressures and the height is still a bit low. It'll need another turn or two once the new springs are in so we'll tackle that then.

 

[SlowBuild]

Preview of AHC tuning results from tonight. Front looks great! Rear should be just fine once King springs go on.

Took 3 turns of the TB to correct front pressures and the height is still a bit low. It'll need another turn or two once the new springs are in so we'll tackle that then.

View attachment 2179931

FYI, I was at roughly 6.9Fr, 7.6Re when I added my King Springs (i was excited to install and didn’t take a pre-install pressure reading so my most recent numbers were 20k miles previously). I dropped to 6.7Fr, 4.9Re with King install. I backed off the torsion bars a bit and after driving a few hundred miles I adjusted my height sensors to max out height front and rear (I didn’t modify the brackets, just maxed out the slots). I gained between 3/4” and 1” height front and rear. I then had to crank the bars a ton (9 full turns) but I landed at 6.8Fr, 5.5Re. I’m happy with that and in the past few thousand miles I’ll bet it’s settled up a bit. If you do the same you might be right about where you want to be although you’re starting a little low and I was dead on for height so maybe you’ll get more lift and higher pressure jump? Anyway, if you go that route you can lower sensors back down as you add weight. Otherwise I’d wait on the springs until you have a bumper; I think they’ll drop your pressures too low if you don’t add height or weight.

@2001LC, thanks for the tip. My original remote is working fine so I think that’s not it. I suspect my eBay knockoffs might just be duds, I tried new batteries and still no luck. I might look for a second hand key to reprogram.

 

[suprarx7nut]

FYI, I was at roughly 6.9Fr, 7.6Re when I added my King Springs (i was excited to install and didn’t take a pre-install pressure reading so my most recent numbers were 20k miles previously). I dropped to 6.7Fr, 4.9Re with King install. I backed off the torsion bars a bit and after driving a few hundred miles I adjusted my height sensors to max out height front and rear (I didn’t modify the brackets, just maxed out the slots). I gained between 3/4” and 1” height front and rear. I then had to crank the bars a ton (9 full turns) but I landed at 6.8Fr, 5.5Re. I’m happy with that and in the past few thousand miles I’ll bet it’s settled up a bit. If you do the same you might be right about where you want to be although you’re starting a little low and I was dead on for height so maybe you’ll get more lift and higher pressure jump? Anyway, if you go that route you can lower sensors back down as you add weight. Otherwise I’d wait on the springs until you have a bumper; I think they’ll drop your pressures too low if you don’t add height or weight.

@2001LC, thanks for the tip. My original remote is working fine so I think that’s not it. I suspect my eBay knockoffs might just be duds, I tried new batteries and still no luck. I might look for a second hand key to reprogram.

It looks like your King springs moved you about 3 MPa, which is about what I've heard. If I drop 3 MPa at the rear, I'd be at 4.9. Bumping height back up to OEM specs or a little above should get me close to spec, I think. I also need to add a lot of weight to the rear, sans the rear bumper. I have sliders, recovery gear, subs, amp, and misc cargo items that tend to stay back there. I'm guessing I'll end up in the mid to high 5's before I even get the bumper on there, but I guess we'll see soon!

I'm tearing into the intake manifold tonight to try to find my coolant leak source (95% sure it's the rear bypass right now).

Once I've taken enough engine off to be sure it's not moving around in the garage under it's own power any time soon, I'll take off the wheel and get that off to Dallas Custom.

Injectors are also coming off for a cleaning at FIS.

The rear garnish piece directly behind the license plate. It's got broken tabs galore, but I'm now thinking industrial velcro (not hook and loop type) might be exactly what I need. The replacement panels are expensive or cheap Chinese stuff and I think the super cheap solution might actually be the best here.

I suppose that's about it for now. Plenty to keep me busy for the next few weeks.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I may have gone a little overboard with the parts purchase from Toyota...

 

[dwell]

I may have gone a little overboard with the parts purchase from Toyota...

View attachment 2182453

Where did you end up buying parts from?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Where did you end up buying parts from?

Ebtoyota. (Boch Toyota). They seem to have the best pricing and they've been my go-to for a while. Shipping hurts sometimes, but I tend to save enough on the part prices that it's still a good deal.

 

[gungriffin]

I may have gone a little overboard with the parts purchase from Toyota...

View attachment 2182453

I didn't realize that you could still buy a new belt and retractor. Hmmmm.... Have you also read about the Velcro fix for the loop that redirects the belt at your shoulder? Attach the male portion of the Velcro to the belt and run it through that part. It will clean off the gunk that slows the seat belt retraction. Is Ivory the color for a tan interior?

 

[suprarx7nut]

I didn't realize that you could still buy a new belt and retractor. Hmmmm.... Have you also read about the Velcro fix for the loop that redirects the belt at your shoulder? Attach the male portion of the Velcro to the belt and run it through that part. It will clean off the gunk that slows the seat belt retraction. Is Ivory the color for a tan interior?

Yeah, it shows unavailable through some dealers so we'll see if they're actually able to get it. I have not heard about that trick, but that's a great idea! I'll do that when the new one arrives.

Ivory is the tan, yes. At least I hope so, haha.

I debated cleaning the current belt, but I haven't had much luck with that in the past. Time is of the essence anyways so I'd be annoyed if I put two hours into it and it still retracted all limp. A nice new belt should feel nice.

 

[gungriffin]

Yeah, it shows unavailable through some dealers so we'll see if they're actually able to get it. I have not heard about that trick, but that's a great idea! I'll do that when the new one arrives.

Ivory is the tan, yes. At least I hope so, haha.

I debated cleaning the current belt, but I haven't had much luck with that in the past. Time is of the essence anyways so I'd be annoyed if I put two hours into it and it still retracted all limp. A nice new belt should feel nice.

Probably worth trying the trick on any of the passenger belts that are retracting slowly. I am really hoping that you get the belt and that you didn't get the last one!

 

[J1000]

Check out Partouq.com they are out of Dubai. I just heard about them the other night and I bought a new AHC pump which was literally almost half price from EBToyota, $159 vs. $300. Shipping is completely reasonable also.

Just catching up to a couple of your questions my wheels are KMC XD brand, no clue what model. The wheels are pretty heavy. The tires are Nitto Ridge Grappler in 285/65/18. They are totally beefy. They have a lot of good reviews also. So far they have been really good in snow but I have yet to try any other terrain.

I wish more companies were like Honda when it comes to seatbelts. Such an important safety device that they should be more than happy to replace free of charge:

 

[suprarx7nut]

Check out Partouq.com they are out of Dubai. I just heard about them the other night and I bought a new AHC pump which was literally almost half price from EBToyota, $159 vs. $300. Shipping is completely reasonable also.

Just catching up to a couple of your questions my wheels are KMC XD brand, no clue what model. The wheels are pretty heavy. The tires are Nitto Ridge Grappler in 285/65/18. They are totally beefy. They have a lot of good reviews also. So far they have been really good in snow but I have yet to try any other terrain.

I wish more companies were like Honda when it comes to seatbelts. Such an important safety device that they should be more than happy to replace free of charge:

For the seatblet, PartSouq looks like $264, EB Toyota was $230. I have come really close to order from PartSouq though. They seem to have lots of items nobody else has.

Any idea on the offset of the wheels?

Agreed on seatbelts. I had a 15 yer old Honda in high school and they did indeed replace the entire assembly free of charge.

 

[atnolan94]

For the seatblet, PartSouq looks like $264, EB Toyota was $230. I have come really close to order from PartSouq though. They seem to have lots of items nobody else has.

Any idea on the offset of the wheels?

Agreed on seatbelts. I had a 15 yer old Honda in high school and they did indeed replace the entire assembly free of charge.

Partsouq is good for random stuff. I got a screaming deal on a steering shaft from them. But stuff like CV's and bushings and common items tend to be more.

 

[devlooper]

Congrats on the purchase!

If it wouldn't be too much hassle could you provide a few other pictures of how the PO installed the second battery?

I have an lx470 with AHC still functioning, and have tinkered with the idea of having a battery in the cab portion of the truck, but not quite sure how to wire it or if its even a smart idea, but seeing someone else's install would help me greatly.

Thanks!

 

[suprarx7nut]

Congrats on the purchase!

If it wouldn't be too much hassle could you provide a few other pictures of how the PO installed the second battery?

I have an lx470 with AHC still functioning, and have tinkered with the idea of having a battery in the cab portion of the truck, but not quite sure how to wire it or if its even a smart idea, but seeing someone else's install would help me greatly.

Thanks!

I took some video, but looking back now, it's all too close up. Honestly, the battery install in this rig had wiring that was all longer than needed and the wires were not organized or bundled. It was just a mess of wires. I would like to install a battery back into the cabin so I might be highlighting that process a little later in the build.

I also might show the old battery install in a YouTube video, so stay tuned!

 

[gungriffin]

I took some video, but looking back now, it's all too close up. Honestly, the battery install in this rig had wiring that was all longer than needed and the wires were not organized or bundled. It was just a mess of wires. I would like to install a battery back into the cabin so I might be highlighting that process a little later in the build.

I also might show the old battery install in a YouTube video, so stay tuned!

Might even be interesting to go Lifepo4... This guy just put out a video on how to make a 100 Ah cell for ~$555. That would give you about 80 usable Ah. It should weight about 22 lbs. Lithium is more expensive up front, but it should last for about 4000 cycles though. The only issue is that it needs to be mounted in the cabin because of temperature needs. If cab mouting is your plan from the start then there would be no issues other than the higher up front cost.



Probably the direction I will go when I need to replace my batteries.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Might even be interesting to go Lifepo4... This guy just put out a video on how to make a 100 Ah cell for ~$555. That would give you about 80 usable Ah. It should weight about 35 lbs. Lithium is more expensive up front, but it should last for about 4000 cycles though. The only issue is that it needs to be mounted in the cabin because of temp needs.



Probably the direction I will go when I need to replace my batteries.

Agreed lithium is the way to go for in-cabin batteries. Though, I'd probably want something name-brand for my own peace of mind to ensure an internal short didn't burn my car to the ground. I say that not knowing exactly how much more they cost than the DIY solutions...

 

[gungriffin]

Agreed lithium is the way to go for in-cabin batteries. Though, I'd probably want something name-brand for my own peace of mind to ensure an internal short didn't burn my car to the ground. I say that not knowing exactly how much more they cost than the DIY solutions...

He just reviewed a battery that Renogy just released that will run you about $900 for 100 Ah. That is about as inexpensive as it can be done. You could also go with a Goal Zero 1000 for about 1200 that will be an all in one. It has some limitations though that make it good only if you don't want to choose your components.

 

[suprarx7nut]

He just reviewed a battery that Renogy just released that will run you about $900 for 100 Ah. That is about as inexpensive as it can be done. You could also go with a Goal Zero 1000 for about 1200 that will be an all in one. It has some limitations though that make it good only if you don't want to choose your components.

Oof. That is expensive. I doubt I need that much though. If the second battery was enough to power 10W of LEDs, a fridge for a day and enough juice leftover to act as (or power up a separate) jump starter I'm covered. I have a feeling 100Ah is overkill for that, especially if I've got solar to keep the battery topped up during the daylight hours.

 

[devlooper]

I took some video, but looking back now, it's all too close up. Honestly, the battery install in this rig had wiring that was all longer than needed and the wires were not organized or bundled. It was just a mess of wires. I would like to install a battery back into the cabin so I might be highlighting that process a little later in the build.

I also might show the old battery install in a YouTube video, so stay tuned!

if you do 2nd battery install in the cab thats really what I want to see! I'll keep watching this thread for sure!

Might even be interesting to go Lifepo4... This guy just put out a video on how to make a 100 Ah cell for ~$555. That would give you about 80 usable Ah. It should weight about 22 lbs. Lithium is more expensive up front, but it should last for about 4000 cycles though. The only issue is that it needs to be mounted in the cabin because of temp needs. If cab mouting is your plan from the start then there would be no issues other than the higher up front cost.



Probably the direction I will go when I need to replace my batteries.

I have a jackery 240 which is lith. ion, but I bought that more so as a portable battery solution. What I would love is a dual battery setup but having the second battery in the cab that runs all aux lights, and accessories probably though a sPOD or switch pro, but would be recharged via the alternator when the truck is running So I dont have to worry about recharging the second battery from an AC plug.

but I put safety first and foremost and if its any cause for concern running high amp cables somewhere into the cab then I dont want to do it.


Not to derail this thread but this is what I have for my power solutions as of right now.

Truck battery for truck purposes, a NOCO gb40 just in case I need a jump and have no one around, and then the Jackery 240 to power things/recharge items to keep my truck battery safe and topped off for starting.

This seems to work fine, but I do want to run some aux lights during camp, and possibly add a fridge at some point and dont want that hooked up to the starting battery.

 

[gungriffin]

Oof. That is expensive. I doubt I need that much though. If the second battery was enough to power 10W of LEDs, a fridge for a day and enough juice leftover to act as (or power up a separate) jump starter I'm covered. I have a feeling 100Ah is overkill for that, especially if I've got solar to keep the battery topped up during the daylight hours.

Agreed that is a lot if you are going with solar as well. That would be 0.86 Ah for the LEDs and around .8-1.4 avg Ah for the fridge.

You can go about 25% Depth of discharge on a standard starter battery. I am unsure how many cycles it can repeat that for.

You can go about 50% DOD on a Marine or Deep Cycle battery and get about 500-1000 charge cycles.

You can go about 80% DOD on LiFePo4 batteries for about 4000 charge cycles.