Nice work, nice bass caught by your son.
The Tent - 79’ FJ40 Frame-Off Resto (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rghouse
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- Thread starter
- #62
still chasing a vacuum leak. here is a video hoping fir some help. The RPMs are dropping when a constant pedal is applied. it is steady and rhythmic. Other symptoms: vacuum drops out very low after accelerating to 1800+, and cant get timing BB to lineup with needle;sits just above by about 1/4”.
Was your distributor stabbed correctly? What is your fuel pressure?
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Did you mean oil pressure?
- Thread starter
- #65
oil pressure is good. fuel flows very well, dont know how to measure that pressure.
what is stabbed correctly?
what is stabbed correctly?
- Thread starter
- #66
Bump on the vacuum issue ^^ watch video
Also, I have no voltage going to my gas guage, all other gauges are working. The wiring diagrams I have show the Y/R hot line going straight from cluster to tank. I chased it around somewhat and don't see anything out of the ordinary. How is this possible? Read bad gauges are usually not the problem, and also that the + on this guage is on the same path as the other gauge next to it.
Dad came down and we knocked more odds and ends out, found some vacuum leaks with the torch. Worst was the EGR nut was not tight. Currently suspecting the BB and will run some test soon. Also not sure if there is a timing/spark/dizzy issue maybe vacuum advance? Still cant figure out why I got vacuum readings in range at idle 2 weeks ago when nothing has changed but tightening up on some minor vacuum leaks. Sadly, I think the first trip in the cruiser will be to my mechanic.
-work more on doors
-assemble more hardtop bolts and tracks
-figured out a mystery bracket! (cat sensor) exhuast sounds better
-change diffs and T-case fluid
-endless search for vac leak and more lean-drop carb adjustment.
-work on fuel guage issue
adjusted float/valve. too low in window now too high slightly. leaving it for now
got the tranny fluid changed. 1st and 2nd were seized up and after some PB blaster and 1 hour of tapping/rocking freed it up.
Also, I have no voltage going to my gas guage, all other gauges are working. The wiring diagrams I have show the Y/R hot line going straight from cluster to tank. I chased it around somewhat and don't see anything out of the ordinary. How is this possible? Read bad gauges are usually not the problem, and also that the + on this guage is on the same path as the other gauge next to it.
Dad came down and we knocked more odds and ends out, found some vacuum leaks with the torch. Worst was the EGR nut was not tight. Currently suspecting the BB and will run some test soon. Also not sure if there is a timing/spark/dizzy issue maybe vacuum advance? Still cant figure out why I got vacuum readings in range at idle 2 weeks ago when nothing has changed but tightening up on some minor vacuum leaks. Sadly, I think the first trip in the cruiser will be to my mechanic.
-work more on doors
-assemble more hardtop bolts and tracks
-figured out a mystery bracket! (cat sensor) exhuast sounds better
-change diffs and T-case fluid
-endless search for vac leak and more lean-drop carb adjustment.
-work on fuel guage issue
adjusted float/valve. too low in window now too high slightly. leaving it for now
got the tranny fluid changed. 1st and 2nd were seized up and after some PB blaster and 1 hour of tapping/rocking freed it up.
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acy76
SILVER Star
I recently rebuilt the carb and cylinder head on my 5/79 FJ40 (federal emissions). While it was (semi/poorly) de-smogged by a previous owner, I did retain as many systems as I could with the parts I had. For reference, I used this excellent guide: The Definitive 79-80 Desmog Guide - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-definitive-79-80-desmog-guide.812197/
Perhaps that is some use in isolating systems and performing tests with the bare minimum connected?
General hints for finding leaks, AKA things I had success with or read about, in case it helps:
- make sure your lines are in good condition and test them
- I plug one end and apply a vacuum to the other to make sure there are no pinholes etc.
- cap off carb and manifold vacuum sources and then enable/isolate each system separately for testing
- as an adjunct/replacement procedure, use a smooth pliers, clamp or regular pliers with the ends covered in old hose to pinch lines off for isolation; if you find a leak this way you can hear the engine run better with the line blocked
- spray carb or brake cleaner around the carb base; if it changes the way it runs, there is likely a leak at that location
- also check manifold-to-head seal and manifold vac sources such as EGR and brake booster
- if you have the carb off, check for manifold cracking in the heat riser area directly under the carb, this is said to be a trouble spot
- use a vacuum tester to check all diaphragms to make sure they hold in their actuated position; if any do not, they are leaking and should be replaced
- alternate procedure for the above if you do not own a vacuum tester: pull the vac line off the diaphragm and manually actuate it fully, then cover the port tightly with your finger to see that it stays actuated and holds vacuum
I also had issues with thefuel cut idle solenoid (I believe this is the proper name), although the symptoms are usually hard start and only running with some choke and at higher RPMs. You can check the solenoid with a power source, check its wiring and ensure it has a good o-ring installed on the business end. If I recall, it should have +12V with key on and you can hear it click when actuated.
Perhaps that is some use in isolating systems and performing tests with the bare minimum connected?
General hints for finding leaks, AKA things I had success with or read about, in case it helps:
- make sure your lines are in good condition and test them
- I plug one end and apply a vacuum to the other to make sure there are no pinholes etc.
- cap off carb and manifold vacuum sources and then enable/isolate each system separately for testing
- as an adjunct/replacement procedure, use a smooth pliers, clamp or regular pliers with the ends covered in old hose to pinch lines off for isolation; if you find a leak this way you can hear the engine run better with the line blocked
- spray carb or brake cleaner around the carb base; if it changes the way it runs, there is likely a leak at that location
- also check manifold-to-head seal and manifold vac sources such as EGR and brake booster
- if you have the carb off, check for manifold cracking in the heat riser area directly under the carb, this is said to be a trouble spot
- use a vacuum tester to check all diaphragms to make sure they hold in their actuated position; if any do not, they are leaking and should be replaced
- alternate procedure for the above if you do not own a vacuum tester: pull the vac line off the diaphragm and manually actuate it fully, then cover the port tightly with your finger to see that it stays actuated and holds vacuum
I also had issues with the
Last edited:
acy76
SILVER Star
Thought of another item: check all plastic VSVs (vacuum switching valves). Every single one on my truck was broken or cracked and needed replacement. For me, the ports would snap off but they were all brittle and cracked. I think they are all available from Toyota (I got mine from @Racer65 and @ToyotaMatt).
- Thread starter
- #69
thanks for all the input @acy76 I really appreciate it. you definitely listed a few things I haven’t tried. Will troubleshoot a little more before taking it in. one of my vsv’s has always had a broken port, I am actually going to repair it. Bills have really added up lol, and got some big ones rolling in. Window guy wants $125 a window ouch! geez there are only 7 for him to do. hoping we can reach an agreement…
acy76
SILVER Star
Glad it was of some help. Although there is a lot of vacuum-controlled stuff on these late engines, the systems are not all that complex. It's really all about taking a methodical approach and eliminating possibilities. You'll get there if you keep after it.
And yeah, parts add up quickly. At least these things tend to hold value, especially one as nice as yours.
And yeah, parts add up quickly. At least these things tend to hold value, especially one as nice as yours.
- Thread starter
- #71
The camel was released out of the tent today, and roamed around the back yard a bit. 
All went great. Brake switch needs slight adjustment, and parking brake needs tightend way down.
clutch seems to engage a little too close to the floor, but isnt bad. might be air bubble left in there, needs some pumping to get full pedal.
Today engine did the RPM drop while warming up. more tightly spaced low then high, but evenly spaced and smooth. after warmed up drove great in the yard.
to do:
-replace 2 wheel studs (anyone done this recently?) might just have schwab do it
-install front bumper, back emblem, windows, spare tire
-my favorite new job: mess with front doors more. damn windows wont roll up all the way and wx stripping is binding up so bad door doesnt shut
-fix low cooling fan wire connection
-check and mount axle breathers, rear is hanging down. move em up higher/extend??
-figure out why I have no voltage going to gas tank
All went great. Brake switch needs slight adjustment, and parking brake needs tightend way down.
clutch seems to engage a little too close to the floor, but isnt bad. might be air bubble left in there, needs some pumping to get full pedal.
Today engine did the RPM drop while warming up. more tightly spaced low then high, but evenly spaced and smooth. after warmed up drove great in the yard.
to do:
-replace 2 wheel studs (anyone done this recently?) might just have schwab do it
-install front bumper, back emblem, windows, spare tire
-my favorite new job: mess with front doors more. damn windows wont roll up all the way and wx stripping is binding up so bad door doesnt shut
-fix low cooling fan wire connection
-check and mount axle breathers, rear is hanging down. move em up higher/extend??
-figure out why I have no voltage going to gas tank
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
My brake lights were staying on periodically and thought I needed to adjust the switch. B4 making thr adjustment I found that the pedal height was to low per the fsm. I adjusted the pedal and didn't need to adjust the switch. I also had a similar issue with my clutch adjustment and it's pedal height was low too. Adjusted properly allows for more stroke in the master. Then i adjusted the clutch per fsm. Pedal heights might be something to look at.
Wow looking nice! I hope mine turns out this good.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Do yourself a favor and get the emissions manual reprint from spector off-road for like 30 bucks. It will make alot of the sub systems more understandable.The camel was released out of the tent today, and roamed around the back yard a bit.
All went great. Brake switch needs slight adjustment, and parking brake needs tightend way down.
clutch seems to engage a little too close to the floor, but isnt bad. might be air bubble left in there, needs some pumping to get full pedal.
Today engine did the RPM drop while warming up. more tightly spaced low then high, but evenly spaced and smooth. after warmed up drove great in the yard.
to do:
-replace 2 wheel studs (anyone done this recently?) might just have schwab do it
-install front bumper, back emblem, windows, spare tire
-my favorite new job: mess with front doors more. damn windows wont roll up all the way and wx stripping is binding up so bad door doesnt shut
-fix low cooling fan wire connection
-check and mount axle breathers, rear is hanging down. move em up higher/extend??
-figure out why I have no voltage going to gas tank
View attachment 3119826
View attachment 3119827
- Thread starter
- #75
Windows!
Hard to believe these things have 11 windows… maybe that’s part of the coolness factor?
Hard to believe these things have 11 windows… maybe that’s part of the coolness factor?
- Thread starter
- #76
okay that was fun, now on to more serious business…
vacuum leak never resolved. still surging, stalling, and idling crummy about 70% of the time. Manifold is coming apart, headers coming off, as per mud advice.
vacuum leak never resolved. still surging, stalling, and idling crummy about 70% of the time. Manifold is coming apart, headers coming off, as per mud advice.
- Thread starter
- #77
Still sorting out rough idle issues and apparent vacuum leak. Replacing manifold gasket didn’t do the trick. Revisited the carburetor and watched pinheads video. Can’t believe it, but I have no slow jet for barrel 2. I have the # 60. Looking for help identifying what the other jet is I need, and where to source it.
Original shot from disassembly
#60 slow jet
Original shot from disassembly
#60 slow jet
fjc-man
SILVER Star
If memory serves me correctly, I don’t think a 79 carb has a slow jet on the secondary side.
- Thread starter
- #79
oH Man! say it aint so @fjc-man , I thought I had the golden ticket! Hoping @FJ40Jim or @65swb45 can chime in here. My TEQ Engine Manual was printed in 76', so it has both slow jets listed. Also, the stamp shows the same production date of truck on the air horn (9B22) but I guess there is no way to confirm on the lower. I know Dad had it re-built a few times and wondering if that is why there is no slow jet. If in fact there are no slow jets on the 79', but a re-builder swapped a different lower, he would not have had a slow jet to install in it. Just an idea.
What else would go in the secondary slow jet hole? Also, that fuel slop on the rim right around the hole looks like the smoking gun.
What else would go in the secondary slow jet hole? Also, that fuel slop on the rim right around the hole looks like the smoking gun.
- Thread starter
- #80
The carb has no 2nd slow jet 
. I dropped it off last Friday at a carb shop, guy was recommended locally for doing good work.
Getting close to deadline. Here’s some more shots I found of the process. So many body parts.
Currently also working out electrical gremlins with seatbelt/parking break light, gas gauge (sending unit replaced), and maybe cat sensor?. Thinking seatbelt relay might be bad???
Towing to body shop 2017
Just a few body parts …
Fresh tub shot!
Half way
Wheelin with Dad near Bucks lake 1995ish
. I dropped it off last Friday at a carb shop, guy was recommended locally for doing good work.Getting close to deadline. Here’s some more shots I found of the process. So many body parts.
Currently also working out electrical gremlins with seatbelt/parking break light, gas gauge (sending unit replaced), and maybe cat sensor?. Thinking seatbelt relay might be bad???
Towing to body shop 2017
Just a few body parts …
Fresh tub shot!
Half way
Wheelin with Dad near Bucks lake 1995ish
