The size 35s Discussion and Pics (mods/ wheel & tire choices)

[nitteo]

35 inch tires CAN fit into the 100 series... with some modding.

Ive always wanted to fit the 35s into the 100, but always found conflicting info on the web.

This thread is for KNOWN parameters. Hopefully we can list what wheels and offsets, tire choices, and mods needed to do to make them fit.

Inspired by @kreiten build, I went to replicate his 35s build.

My Specs:
Tires: Kenda Clever RT 35x12.5x17
Wheels: Method 304 17x8.5 0 offset
Mods: Extended Bumpstops with Timbren Rears and Washers on Front OEM Bumpstops
Fitting: Pinch Weld Mod, lots of hammering to bash the inner fenders, moving the Metaltech sliders back.
Lift: Ironman 2 inch lift kit, OME rear 2863 springs.

I chose Kenda Klever RT 35x12.50x17 tires, I still daily the rig and would like to have some good highway manners.

Method 0 offset 17 inch wheels. I chose the 304 Model.

Looks like they needed alot of weights:

having already done the pinch weld mods for my 295/70r18s, I just needed to hammer some more

passenger side mods done, moving the metaltech sliders back and hammered up the interior wheel well.

still have a slight rub on full lock, but im hoping some raising of the front end with the torsion bars will alleviate that.

 

[nukegoat]

Cute

 

[TTViper]

We don’t really care that they can clear lock to lock on flat ground, that’s easy. Go find a place to flex and see how they tuck or rub and report back.

the treps look like they run a little skinnier which would be helpful, or @kreiten has a little less poke with his wheel setup.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Adios articulation

 

[MongooseGA]

I think there are plenty of guys running 35s on their 100s. I know of a good number that also add a body lift to help with fender clearance.

I'm not personally a big fan of body lifts in general. My 34s have been superb in everything from aesthetics to performance. I could probably run 35s, but I feel the step up from where I'm at would mainly serve to exacerbate big-tire problems more than it would improve off-road capability. Coming from 33s, may be a different consideration.

Best of luck, @nitteo . Your truck sure does look sweet on those tires.

 

[atnolan94]

The key to running 35s on a 100 is you really need to run the perfect offset so that when you reach full compression your tire tucks in the fender well. With zero offset you will undoubtedly hit the fender arch with any substantial compression. A body lift can help but not generally cure this unless you go really big like over an inch.

@DirtDawg runs 35x12.50r18 Patagonia MT’s (35.2!!) on +25 methods and they tuck perfectly. Minor rubbing at full compression with the wheels turned. At zero offset I’d be worried about catching your fender arches on large bumps on the road.

I run 315/75r16 Cooper (34.8”) on stock LC 16s with 1.25 spidertrax (~+28mm) and similarly mine tuck perfectly into the fender arch. Very very minor rubbing at full lock turns at full compression. I have only achieved this once and it was literally at full bump because my LCA broke in Moab. Even then I was able to drive thru town to get it fixed, on your setup there’s a 0% chance; you’d be stranded. Your fender arch would be resting on the tire. I’ve done about 15k miles on this setup and done some of the most famous wheeling in the US and have never rubber once.

Both of us run pinch weld mods and have trimmed or full on removed fender liners.

Pic 1 is Dirt Dawg Connor and pic 2 is me being an absolute clown on eureka gulch last month photo cred to @ga12r1 great shots when things got a little froggy

 

[DirtDawg]

^what @atnolan94 said.

My notes on 35s:

Totally worth it in my opinion if you drive your vehicle off-road for a good portion of its miles. I moved from 275/70r18 to 35x12.5r18. The increased off-road performance is amazing. And honestly the on road performance isn’t terrible. Re-gearing would be best.

Definitely need to do the pinch weld mod, and some extensive trimming of the fender guards. I also needed to roll my front fenders to get rid of the lip on the fender.

Oh and I’m running a @TRAIL TAILOR 1/2” body lift.

 

[nitteo]

Adios articulation

so what exactly do you mean by that?
articulation downwards is not affected.
articulation upwards and fender clearance is mitigated with extended bumpstops.
@kreiten with extending bumpstops did the rubicon on these methods 0 offsets and 35s!
thats what sold me

 

[atnolan94]

so what exactly do you mean by that?
articulation downwards is not affected.
articulation upwards and fender clearance is mitigated with extended bumpstops.
@kreiten with extending bumpstops did the rubicon on these methods 0 offsets and 35s!
thats what sold me

You reduce articulation adding longer bump stops. You are reducing the wheel travel.

 

[GTV]

Is it wrong that I’m thinking he’ll be fine, he lives in Florida?

 

[nitteo]

We don’t really care that they can clear lock to lock on flat ground, that’s easy. Go find a place to flex and see how they tuck or rub and report back.

the treps look like they run a little skinnier which would be helpful, or @kreiten has a little less poke with his wheel setup.

the kendas are hrybrid, almost positively sure they are “smaller” than the treps and @kreiten wheels have the same exact specs.

 

[Jram100]

Gettin ready to install 315/75r16 ko2’s on my +10mm F5’s. My 100 has a 2.5” icon/ome lift w diff drop. Will report back.

 

[AlpineAccess]

You reduce articulation adding longer bump stops. You are reducing the wheel travel.

Correct, upward wheel travel is reduced and so articulation is reduced. On IFS rear articulation (into the wheel well) is particularly important.

 

[nitteo]

Correct, upward wheel travel is reduced and so articulation is reduced. On IFS rear articulation (into the wheel well) is particularly important.

Ken's Articulates quite fine I think, and did the Rubicon with the setup I am copying. We have the same spec wheels...

 

[Jram100]

Im running uca’s w camber adjust, so im hoping it helps

 

[nitteo]

Im running uca’s w camber adjust, so im hoping it helps

You should be fine, i have a friend that runs 315/75/16 KM3s on his oem 16s, but he is on 1.25 spacers.

 

[Jram100]

You should be fine, i have a friend that runs 315/75/16 KM3s on his oem 16s, but he is on 1.25 spacers.

Yeah I had 1.5” spacers on my oem 16”, but my f5’s stick out a little further, so thats what im thinkin about.

this is how its gonna look

 

[AlpineAccess]

Ken's Articulates quite fine I think, and did the Rubicon with the setup I am copying. We have the same spec wheels...

I'm not saying there is anything wrong with this setup from person to person, but his front right is off the ground and the rear right is on the extended bump stop. If anything I think this illustrates IFS shortcomings and the importance of tucking the rear as far as possible.

The 35s in that picture look dope though.

 

[Jram100]

Ken's Articulates quite fine I think, and did the Rubicon with the setup I am copying. We have the same spec wheels...

Where would the rubbing in the rear occur without the timbrens? They look like they're tucking so nicely...

 

[Roosevelt T]

Correct, upward wheel travel is reduced and so articulation is reduced. On IFS rear articulation (into the wheel well) is particularly important.

@nitteo we go way back, and the tires/wheels look great (although 0 offset is too much for me), but there's no denying they are correct and you are reducing articulation.

I'm slightly concerned that my 295/70/18s at +18 will hit the fender, per the concerns voiced in this thread (sans extended bump stops)... @DirtDawg's setup gives me some hope.

It's taken me forever to do the lockers, rack and all the ancillary stuff, but it should be done soon and I can test it out.