IMO Toyo MT is fantastic offroad and "ok" on pavement. It is THE tire for traction, long life and rock resistance. But - once those outer tread blocks start to cup, you'll feel like your driving on rumble strips- and anything slightest bit loose or rattly inside our under your truck will let you know every time you turn a corner. You'll want to ensure your pressures are correct, alignment is spot on and tires are rotated frequently to mitigate the cupping.
The size 35s Discussion and Pics (mods/ wheel & tire choices) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter nitteo
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
What caster is everyone running? If somehow we could pull the tire forward it would be better. Not sure the limitations of the stock UCA. Just test fitted 315/75/16 on 16x8 +10 and smashed the pinch weld and moved the sliders back a bit. Looks like it'll still touch if fully compressed
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
Yeah +10 is going to be too much. +25 is what you want. Or stock wheels with a 1.25” spacer.
Here’s a 315/75/16 on 16x8 +10 with no rubbing. I ran the same wheels with a 295/75/16 and was all good.
Ymmv
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
Looks good! But at full compression I’d have to think that you’re catching to top of your fender arch. I run +25ish and they just barely tuck up inside my fenders. In fact if I have my wheels turned at full compression they tend to make a little contact. Never been an issue just curious.
Do you have stock uca? Do you know your caster? How much trimming? Bump stops?
If anyone on this board knows the limits and boundaries of 315s on a 100 it’s @atnolan94 - I’ve seen most of his post and that guy has wheeled in some incredible places.
I just threw out a pic to show you the wheel offset and size you mentioned.
Here’s the build thread
forum.ih8mud.com
Sorry for any confusion.
I just threw out a pic to show you the wheel offset and size you mentioned.
Here’s the build thread
duvinclunk's build it and break it quick build thread.
Figured it may be nice to have a place to keep all the modifications and details to my build in one place so I figured I should start a build thread. I have been driving a reasonably built Tacoma for the last few years and honestly have loved the truck. I had no intentions to get rid of it but...
forum.ih8mud.com
Sorry for any confusion.
yea that's prob why I need some caster adjustment in there. would be nice to pull the wheel forward a bit.
^^ You won't get much caster adjustment or forward wheel movement from stock UCA on a lifted truck. If you have stock UCA's the max you'll be able to achieve is 1.5 +/- degrees if you have lifted 2". Stock UCA with no lift can be adjusted to a max of about 3.5 degrees +/-. Generally you loose 1.0 degree of caster for every inch you lift. Lowering front end or using an aftermarket UCA will be necessary to get caster numbers back up to 3.5-4.0 and create a little more gap between the back of the wheel and lower wheel arch liner.
checked my last alignment specs and it was +2.9 passenger side and 2.4 driver side. I gave the TB a full 3 turn crank on passenger and driver a 2 full turn. (my driver side is extremely difficult to turn). this in turn should have lowered the caster meaning tire moved rearward even more? i did get another half inch to inch lift though!
i may end up just ripping out the fender liner. we'll see if the tire shop can get the 35s on today and then i can mess with fitment a little more before the alignment shop!
i may end up just ripping out the fender liner. we'll see if the tire shop can get the 35s on today and then i can mess with fitment a little more before the alignment shop!
Do you have Stock UCA? What are your wheel center to fender lip measurements?
Here are the mods I needed for regular driving around in N no rubbing with ahc and 325-65-18 ko2’s on tundra trd wheels:
they spec at 34.6”, but measure out at 33.5” installed
1.5” wheel spacers front and rear
Ahc sensor lift by just sliding the bolts up
Remove wheel well liners and beat back pinch weld in front
Remove washer reservoir protector dri
there is still slight rubbing on the front drivers side bumper when down an incline and slightly stuffed, but the stock bumper is going soon for a welded tube with winch mount. Not sure about full stuffing, but we will see
they spec at 34.6”, but measure out at 33.5” installed
1.5” wheel spacers front and rear
Ahc sensor lift by just sliding the bolts up
Remove wheel well liners and beat back pinch weld in front
Remove washer reservoir protector dri
there is still slight rubbing on the front drivers side bumper when down an incline and slightly stuffed, but the stock bumper is going soon for a welded tube with winch mount. Not sure about full stuffing, but we will see
still on stock UCA
I think i measured 22 inches.
what would you say the max i could go?
I was still rubbing on the washer reservoir, so moved it with an aftermarket coolant tank next to the battery. Super easy. Still get a little fender rub on the full stuff in the front, so looking at modifying the front fenders a little. Also going for more lift aka shock spacers and swaybar end link extensions.
