The Resurection of 'The Beast' (6 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I couldn't see any rust on the wire. I picked up a new roll from Lowes - damn $10...but it worked!

I, again, was in a hurry so my welds are kinda crappy looking but the rear bumper is together!
 
Bumper is painted.

I just remembered this morning that I forgot to pick up 2x2x3/16 for my rear quarter panel protection. :censor: I have several guys coming over tomorrow to help me drop my rebuilt 2F in and I was hoping to finish up the rear quarter protection then.
 
k9crazy said:
Guys? hhmmmpppfff

And I wouldn't call it "dropping it in" more along the lines of "wedging it in."
Click to expand...

:flipoff2:

Thanks to EVERYONE who came by! We got a ton done.

I thought my 2F was ready to drop in but when Trollhole showed up he pointed out about 3 dozen things wrong! (oops) :eek:

We dropped in the 2F, tranny and tcase. Put on a different fuel pump. Replaced all heater hoses in the engine bay. Took out some power steering stuff I didn't needed since I went over to a Sag pump. Installed new fog lights. Ate lunch and drank some beer.

After everyone left I kept working until about 1130 pm and then worked most of the day Sunday.

I did make one BIG oops - I dropped a nut into the intake manifold but LUCKILY I was able to fish it out with a magnet.

After all left and through Sunday I installed the radiator, grill, front valence, front bumper, winch, driveshafts, new 90wt in the tcase and tranny with new crush washers, cleaned up some wiring, installed the carb but I need to finish hooking it up.

What I have left to do:
1) install different rocker studs (need to source)
2) hook up carb
3) hook up starter
4) turn battery around
5) install oil pressure sending unit (need to buy)
6) install choke cable (need to source)

I'm hoping to have this stuff done so I can break in the new cam and motor this weekend! :bounce2::bounce:
 
I would probably change valve covers before I would dive back into the head and valvetrain (which is already adjusted). Maybe that is because I have piles of covers around and it is easier for me to clean and paint a cover than remove the entire valvetrain assembly.
 
71-CRUISER said:
I would probably change valve covers before I would dive back into the head and valvetrain (which is already adjusted). Maybe that is because I have piles of covers around and it is easier for me to clean and paint a cover than remove the entire valvetrain assembly.
Click to expand...

I have a valve cover from the 83 painted and ready to go but I want to run the carb from the 76 (I trust it and NOT the carb from the 83). I also have the air intake housing painted from the 76 and not the 83.

I didn't think replacing the rocker studs was that big of a deal. Seems like the pull out and go right back in...or am I off?
 
Rocker studs on the way from DSLTOY.

Oil sending unit on the way from Ralph Hayes Toyota.

Tonight I'm going to clean up some wiring and get my battery hooked up right. Then I should be ready for the rocker studs and oil sending unit and then a break in!
 
Got a few minutes in last night.

Attached the t-case linkage (correctly I hope).
Attached the clutch slave line - that was a PITA.
Mounted the battery.
Ran a new carb choke line.
Tried to figure out how the throttle connects to the carb...

Does anyone have a good pic you can post of the rear of a carb where the throttle and choke cable attach?

Thanks!

ETA - I think I figured out the the throttle linkage problem - I forgot a part... doh!
 
Last edited:
cml25 said:
:flipoff2: Wheres the pictures??? :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

I know I know :flipoff2: I'll get some this weekend.

Last night I switched out my rocker studs, reinstalled the valve train, valve cover and air filter housing (whatever its called). I also installed a new oil sensor housing and hooked it up.

Tonight I hope to get my clutch slave line in and put my dash back together.

I have most of Saturday to get this baby running - problem is I'm a wee bit (OK A LOT) apprehensive about cranking this sucker up without someone there who actually knows what they are doing - but we will see what happens...
 
You will need to break in your cam once you get it fired. First make sure everything is where it is supposed to be (valves adjusted) and all of your fluids are full (oil, water, etc.). I would crank it just long enough to make sure you have oil pressure and fuel. Next the proper break in for a cam it to start the engine and run it at about 2000 RPM for about 20 minutes to get everything seated correctly. After that I would change the oil and filter, readjust the valves and you should be good to go for your next 500 mile or so oil change. Set timing and idle and that should do it.

Also you shouldn't use synthetic oil for any of the break in. Once you get to about 1000 miles you can switch to synthetic if you want but that is up to you.
 
I've run synthetic in all my 2Fs, including your '76, with no problems. Only the old F in my '73 gets dino oil 'cause I'm afraid it'll leak worse with synth.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

kbahus
Builds The Short Rib
7 8 9
Replies
162
Views
9K
RUSH55
RUSH55
J Mack
One last time for the final time!!
Replies
14
Views
843
trainbufftony
T
Dryfly43
The Time Has Arrived-FJ55 Resto Beginning
Replies
10
Views
853
J Mack
J Mack
coldicer
Introducing the CurbCrawler. My 1973 build.
3 4 5
Replies
86
Views
6K
Pigeaten
Pigeaten

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 7 (members: 0, guests: 7)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom