The Resurection of 'The Beast' (1 Viewer)

[Southeast Overland]

I checked out my steering for play last night after the install and most of the slop is gone BUT there is a bit in the mini-truck PS box. Does anyone know if it is possible to adjust a mini-truck PS box to take out slack or is a rebuild necessary?

 

[Kaderabek]

I seem to recall that there's an adjustment screw on the top of the box. Probably time for a rebuild, though. That's a lot of years running big tires.

TJK

 

[Southeast Overland]

I seem to recall that there's an adjustment screw on the top of the box. Probably time for a rebuild, though. That's a lot of years running big tires.

TJK

I just read up on the rebuild and it doesn't seem that tough. I am going to put that off until I have the 2F in and front axle cut and turned. There is much less slop now so I'm happy as long as it works OK during the road test. I hope this evening to get the under side of the body sealed up from my patches and/or clean up the drive shafts.

 

[Carp]

I saw that you were getting another 2f, so I was hoping you'd try to get the Beast back on the road soon. It's looking good, too bad it won't be ready in 2 weeks...

 

[Southeast Overland]

I saw that you were getting another 2f, so I was hoping you'd try to get the Beast back on the road soon. It's looking good, too bad it won't be ready in 2 weeks...

I HOPE she will be rolling under her own power again soon. There isn't any way she will make OMT unless I take all of next week off...and even then it probably wouldn't happen. I might just have at the Annual Meeting. I would LOVE that.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I picked up some seam sealer from NAPA (3M, black, nasty goopy but cured up nice) and sealed up the underside of my floorboards. The gaps were small and after I got a good look the gaps I could have gone without sealing them but I wanted to do this before I hit the first nasty, goopy mud puddle.

I hope this evening to get my d-shafts cleaned up and maybe sanded.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Picked up a 76 2F this weekend. I'll need to replace most of the bolt on stuff (water pump, alt, dizzy, carb, etc) but I have all those parts from my original 76. Plan is to replace that stuff, run some new oil through it, drop it in and call it good until I get the 83 rebuilt.

Wish me luck.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I got about an hour in last night on my now third 2F. I drained the oil - it was very dark but did not contain any water. I pulled the valve cover and pulled out a new valve cover gasket from my stash since the old one was hard as a rock and slightly out of alignment. There was a bunch o' crap (flaky stuff) all over the rocker arms and under the valve cover which appeared to have fallen down from the underside of the valve cover - never seen anything like that. I plugged any large holes in the head and used a compressor to clean things up. There was a little bit of rust on a few of the rocker arms but I don't think that will hurt anything. I poured about a quart of new oil over the head and let it drain into the pan.

My biggest worry was rust in the cylinders. I blew off around the spark plugs and pulled the plugs. The plugs actually looked pretty good! I shined a light into the cylinders from the spark plug holes and saw a very small bit of what I think was surface rust in #2 and 5 (I think). OK - my goal here is to get some guts into my Pig so I'm cranking forward. I put about one full drinking straw's worth of SeaFoam in each cylinder and let it sit for a minute, then turned over the motor about 20 times. The first few revolutions got rough at the same point but after about 5 revolutions everything was smooth. I have NO idea how this will turn out.

If anyone remembers back to the helluva time I had removing the harmoic balancer nut on the second 2F, well, I didn't want to repeat that. I had to get this harmonic balancer off as it was too rusted. One good hit with a 1/2 inch cheap impact wrench and it popped right off!

Then the called out and said dinner was close to ready!!!! I love eating...

My next step is to run a compression test and see what numbers pop up. I am keeping my fingers crossed for triple digits across the board. If I am in triple digits across the board this sucker is getting run as is. I HAVE to make a trip in September and October and need a running 2F in my Pig!

Enjoy a couple of pics.

 

[n2666s]

way to go Steve...........want to see the "Beast" back on the road...........you are the man to do it

Lou

 

[Southeast Overland]

way to go Steve...........want to see the "Beast" back on the road...........you are the man to do it

Lou

"You can dooo ittt!!!! ALLLL NIGHT LOOOOONG!!!!"

Well, I actually only worked on the Piggie for another hour and a half last night but the new valve cover gasket is totally in and ready to go. I swapped over the dizzy from my original 76. I'm not sure if the dizzy is seating far enough down. I can barely see one rubber o-ring poking out. I took off the starter which might still be good but I didn't check it. It will go in a spares box. It took two punctures with a big arse screwdriver to get the oil filter off and there was a weeee bit of milkshake in it but I'm not sweating it. I also got the water pump off that was DOA but I managed to break off the last bolt doing so. That bolt is soaking in PB Blaster right now and I'll probably let it soak for a few more days before I heat it up and try to get it out. I also got the bolts out of the tranny to pull it off but then the said dinner was ready.

I'm going to get in a quick run tonight after work and then hopefully get another hour on the motor. I plan on getting the manifold and carb off and replaced with parts from my original 76, then taking off the tranny and checking out the clutch. I figure I have to take the clutch out to replace the rear main. I would hate to not replace the rear main and then have a huge leak from a dried up seal.

 

[OinkOinker]

Who said I'm patient...note hammer in Pic 11.

hahah thats not a real hammer, at least not one i would use if id lost my patience.... it looks like a toy hammer

 

[Southeast Overland]

Hit a big setback yesterday.

I was able to run a compression test on the 76 2F I picked up from a fellow club member for a song.

1 - 74
2 - 69
3 - 34
4 - 86
5 - 32
6 - 112

I ran #6 first and thought "heck, I'll take this across the board"...well I didn't get what I hoped for. I'm not going to put any more work into this motor and I am going to concentrate on getting my 83 2F rebuilt. I won't be able to make any fall runs probably but hopefully will have my Piggie running by the end of the year.

 

[n2666s]

Steve; yes, the numbers look pretty crappy BUT...don't give up on it just yet!.......did you do the compression check wet or dry?; made a big difference in mine; ran a "dry" compression check and the numbers were pretty sorry on the 87 motor I picked up and that now lives in the 78.......squirted some marvel mystery oil and turned the motor over several times several days in a row; then checked and they had all come up except IIRC # 6 which was at 110lbs and after running for a while now are all pretty much from 133 to 140 lbs......when motors sit for long periods of time things tend to rust and stick.........specially valves and rings.........you have rust on the rockers and there is going to be some "stickyness" in your moving parts if the numbers pick up?; just change the rear oil seal and run the snot out of it while you rebuild the other 76 2F at your leisure .............just my 0.02
HTH

Lou

Steve, like to store things that make sense to me; found this a while back and saved; it's is from the "Mopar Imperial" club.......I'm not smart enough for complicated problems and when I run into one I use the "KISS" principal ......Keep it simple stupid

We always did the compression check cold. We did a dry compression check- take out plugs and check each cylinder while recording each. Then a wet reading- Shoot 1-2 squirts of motor oil from oil can in cylinder and check each one then record. If you have a 25% variance in the reading between cylinders you have a problem. That is 25% between #1 and #5 on dry test. If it does not come up on the wet test it is a valve. If it does it is rings. You can tell which valve it is by going on Top Dead Center on the weak cylinder (Piston up both valves closed) shoot air in the cylinder with blow gun, if it comes out the carburetor it is an intake. If it blows out the exhaust it is an exhaust valve. If it goes into the crank case bad rings. For a true idea as to what is wrong I would do both tests.

 

[Carp]

Steve; yes, the numbers look pretty crappy BUT...don't give up on it just yet!.......did you do the compression check wet or dry?; made a big difference in mine; ran a "dry" compression check and the numbers were pretty sorry on the 87 motor I picked up and that now lives in the 78.......squirted some marvel mystery oil and turned the motor over several times several days in a row; then checked and they had all come up except IIRC # 6 which was at 110lbs and after running for a while now are all pretty much from 133 to 140 lbs......when motors sit for long periods of time things tend to rust and stick.........specially valves and rings.........you have rust on the rockers and there is going to be some "stickyness" in your moving parts if the numbers pick up?; just change the rear oil seal and run the snot out of it while you rebuild the other 76 2F at your leisure .............just my 0.02
HTH

Lou

Steve, like to store things that make sense to me; found this a while back and saved; it's is from the "Mopar Imperial" club.......I'm not smart enough for complicated problems and when I run into one I use the "KISS" principal ......Keep it simple stupid

We always did the compression check cold. We did a dry compression check- take out plugs and check each cylinder while recording each. Then a wet reading- Shoot 1-2 squirts of motor oil from oil can in cylinder and check each one then record. If you have a 25% variance in the reading between cylinders you have a problem. That is 25% between #1 and #5 on dry test. If it does not come up on the wet test it is a valve. If it does it is rings. You can tell which valve it is by going on Top Dead Center on the weak cylinder (Piston up both valves closed) shoot air in the cylinder with blow gun, if it comes out the carburetor it is an intake. If it blows out the exhaust it is an exhaust valve. If it goes into the crank case bad rings. For a true idea as to what is wrong I would do both tests.

x2 We did the same thing to a small Tercel motor that we hauled outta junk engine shed. Thing wouldn't hold compression, used WD-40 in the cylinders, rotated it a few days, then got its numbers up, and put it in the Tercel. Ran for at least another 100k miles. (Sold car, don't know what ended up with it). Worth a shot, at least, doesn't cost much.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks for the info Lou and Carp. I let some SeaFoam sit in the cylinders for awhile and then I turned her over by hand. I already poured a couple quarts of new oil through the head. I'll squirt some oil into the cylinders tonight and let that sit for a day and then turn her over and rerun the compression test.

I always thought if the compression was bad dry but came up when wet then you had issues with your rings and the motor needed work. Are you saying that if I put oil in the cylinders and the #s come up they will stay up when the motor is in the Pig and running?

PS: the original 76 2F is shot - I'll be rebuilding an 83 that I have eventually.

 

[n2666s]

Steve; you can be having one or both of 2 things; sticky rings and or valves; in any case you can get a lot of info by getting the lowest compression cyl up to TDC and pushing in compressed air; if it leaks through the exhaust it is an exhaust valve if through the carb...........intake valve, personally would plan on rebuilding the other 2F and just run the crap out of this one just change the rear oil seal..........heck nothing to lose and rear oil seals aren't that expensive; you already have the motor out...HTH

Lou

 

[Southeast Overland]

Yup - motor is out and sitting in my garage. If I can get the compression #s up to around 100 across the board I'll run her but I'm not going to put a motor with comp readings in the 30's in my Pig. My objective with this motor was to just get something in the Pig to have her running again while the 83 2f is rebuilt. I'm not willing to put too much into her to get her running. I'll douse the cylinders with a weee bit of oil tonight and let it sit.

 

[n2666s]

Ether......always helps

Lou

 

[Southeast Overland]

I tried a few things tonight.

I added a quart of oil (about 4 total in the 2F) and pumped her through for a few minutes. I then put about a four second stream of PB Blaster in each cylinder, let it sit for a minute or two and reran the compression test.

First #s are dry - second are wet.

1 - 74 - 95
2 - 69 - 73
3 - 34 - 54
4 - 86 - 94
5 - 32 - 35
6 - 112 - 115

Cylinders 1 and 3 came up a good bit while 2 and 4 didn't come up much and 5 didn't come up at all. Six still looks good. I put a bit more PB Blaster in after the wet compression test and will try again in a few days.

What cha think?

 

[n2666s]

looks like sticky valves; did you get to squirt some air down the Cyls?; bottom line is that the motor is free and turns; would keep at it for a few days then then recheck compressions; internal combustion can free up sticky things...it won't repair a bearing or con rod knock but it doesn't sound like you are having this problem........nothing to lose by cranking her after going through the motions..if it was froze would say just forget it; but this one is free.........can you get on the starter motor to crank or are you doing it by hand?

Lou