Southeast Overland
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- #281
I was hoping to paint one panel at a time and wanted to avoid setup and cleaning of a paint gun but it might be an option that I have to consider now.
The Resurection of 'The Beast' (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Southeast Overland
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Southeast Overland
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- #282
I used Rustoleum ODG Camo flat for the lower fender and Rustoleum Canvas White (off-white) for the upper. I like it!
Sweet!
Sporin
Site Addict
How die the ODG go on? That is the color I'm doing mine in (all over).
Southeast Overland
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- #285
It went on just fine. The rest of the Pig will be sanded, cleaned with mineral spirits, wiped w/ a tack cloth and then spray painted. Since this was the third color I put on this fender trying to find the right color all I didn't sand but did wipe w/ a tack cloth. The last time I painted it was two days ago so it was reasonably clean. Paint went on just fine and dries QUICK.
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- Joined
- Dec 25, 2004
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- Location
- 86 miles from Elwood, Texas
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- www.toyotatrailriders.com
That looks friggin nice! You'd make the White Trash right proud!
Southeast Overland
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- #287
I ran into some White Trash at this year's GSMTR - I don't know if I can keep up with y'all!
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Vehicle has been passed around like a cheap hooker amongst the White Trash....
TJK
TJK
Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #289
I got the driver's fender pretty much sanded so I can hopefully paint it today or tomorrow. I have some rust popping out (very light) at the bottom of the doors so I'll have to treat with POR before the white/ODG paint job.
I'm hoping to have the fenders, doors, rear quarters and tailgate done for the Upstate Cruiser's Pumpkin Pig Run in October. Passenger rear quarter is going to be cake, driver's rear quarter is already a PITA. I probably won't get to the roof rust until afterwards but we'll see.
I'm hoping to have the fenders, doors, rear quarters and tailgate done for the Upstate Cruiser's Pumpkin Pig Run in October. Passenger rear quarter is going to be cake, driver's rear quarter is already a PITA. I probably won't get to the roof rust until afterwards but we'll see.
You should have plenty of time! Slacker.
Just kiddin, things seem like they are moving along very well!!!!
Southeast Overland
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- #291
In hyperdrive. I realized yesterday evening that I need to have the body looking decent by Aug 18, not Oct 26!
I painted the lower passenger's fender ODG last night. Before I painted I sanded, cleaned, and then slapped on some POR across a few rust spots. I probably should have cut some metal out on the lower fender where all Pig fenders typically rust but since I plan on making tube fenders this winter I just slapped a good coat of POR on both sides and called it done. I'll paint the upper passenger's fender white today and clearcoat both upper fenders if work allows.
I did experiment a little with painting directly over POR. I believe according to POR you should use their primer to topcoat. I have had (so far) decent luck painting over slightly tacky POR. Yesterday I tried to paint over wet POR and no dice. The ODG didn't adhere one bit. So, I put a fan on the fender (remember I'm in hyperdrive) and let the POR turn very tacky. I then put several VERY light coats of ODG over the POR and everything seemed to work well. We will see how it turns out several months from now.
I also did a little sanding on the driver's rear quarter. (I forgot to take a picture. I think a light skim of bondo on some very small places (read quarter size) and I'll be able to paint. I do need to patch up the wheel well but that might have to wait until after Aug 18.
I don't have any nice pics today - just the one of the fender.
Oh - my passenger fender is not fitting as flush as I would like with the front door but I'm tired of messing with it.
My doors need some attention. I would like to be able to pull one apart a night, sand the inside and outside, treat the rust with POR, and do whatever I need to make the windows work a bit (a ton) more smoothly. Any tips on the windows?
I painted the lower passenger's fender ODG last night. Before I painted I sanded, cleaned, and then slapped on some POR across a few rust spots. I probably should have cut some metal out on the lower fender where all Pig fenders typically rust but since I plan on making tube fenders this winter I just slapped a good coat of POR on both sides and called it done. I'll paint the upper passenger's fender white today and clearcoat both upper fenders if work allows.
I did experiment a little with painting directly over POR. I believe according to POR you should use their primer to topcoat. I have had (so far) decent luck painting over slightly tacky POR. Yesterday I tried to paint over wet POR and no dice. The ODG didn't adhere one bit. So, I put a fan on the fender (remember I'm in hyperdrive) and let the POR turn very tacky. I then put several VERY light coats of ODG over the POR and everything seemed to work well. We will see how it turns out several months from now.
I also did a little sanding on the driver's rear quarter. (I forgot to take a picture. I think a light skim of bondo on some very small places (read quarter size) and I'll be able to paint. I do need to patch up the wheel well but that might have to wait until after Aug 18.
I don't have any nice pics today - just the one of the fender.
Oh - my passenger fender is not fitting as flush as I would like with the front door but I'm tired of messing with it.
My doors need some attention. I would like to be able to pull one apart a night, sand the inside and outside, treat the rust with POR, and do whatever I need to make the windows work a bit (a ton) more smoothly. Any tips on the windows?
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Southeast Overland
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- #292
Still trying to work in hyperdrive...
This evening I finished painting the fenders. The second one I did (passenger's side) is definately better than the driver's side as I had a slight learning curve. I would call it a ten foot paint job. I did clearcoat the white which I think will help with durability. I did find out that wind and bugs don't help much with applying a smooth paint job. When conditions are right a rattle can job can look pretty good!
I sanded the lower (blue) driver's side to prep for paint and sanded the driver's rear quarter a bit more. I removed the driver's door inner cover and do have a little rust to deal with. There was some fur inside the door so something at one point was alive in there. I removed as much debris (fur, pine straw, leaves, etc) as I could but can't get everything out very well. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm thinking I might try to spray everything out with water then slather POR on the inside. The outside (exterior and inner cab) will both receive POR and this part should be more straight forward.
My windows are sticking a bit. They will roll up and down but take a good bit of effort. Will applying some sort of lubricant (dry?) to anywhere in the window mechanism that could bind help with this? I need some suggestions here...
I'm also trying to figure out how to approach the driver's wheel well. I think the best thing to do will be to cut out thin, previously rusted metal on both the outer body panel and the wheel well and then weld back together. There is some pretty thick Bondo here that I've been having to sand off and feather down.
I took some pics but forgot to bring my download cord home from work so I'll post them up in the morning.
This evening I finished painting the fenders. The second one I did (passenger's side) is definately better than the driver's side as I had a slight learning curve. I would call it a ten foot paint job. I did clearcoat the white which I think will help with durability. I did find out that wind and bugs don't help much with applying a smooth paint job. When conditions are right a rattle can job can look pretty good!
I sanded the lower (blue) driver's side to prep for paint and sanded the driver's rear quarter a bit more. I removed the driver's door inner cover and do have a little rust to deal with. There was some fur inside the door so something at one point was alive in there. I removed as much debris (fur, pine straw, leaves, etc) as I could but can't get everything out very well. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm thinking I might try to spray everything out with water then slather POR on the inside. The outside (exterior and inner cab) will both receive POR and this part should be more straight forward.
My windows are sticking a bit. They will roll up and down but take a good bit of effort. Will applying some sort of lubricant (dry?) to anywhere in the window mechanism that could bind help with this? I need some suggestions here...
I'm also trying to figure out how to approach the driver's wheel well. I think the best thing to do will be to cut out thin, previously rusted metal on both the outer body panel and the wheel well and then weld back together. There is some pretty thick Bondo here that I've been having to sand off and feather down.
I took some pics but forgot to bring my download cord home from work so I'll post them up in the morning.
yooper
SILVER Star
Mostly you need to clean the window channels out really well. Some kind of dry lubricant is probably a good idea, but I don't know what. All the linkage should just be greased.
ODG is
, much better than that Ford blue you had, ick
Looking good in general!
I didn't put those screws through the fenders! I cringed every time I looked at those things...
ODG is
, much better than that Ford blue you had, ickLooking good in general!
I didn't put those screws through the fenders! I cringed every time I looked at those things...
Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #294
Mostly you need to clean the window channels out really well. Some kind of dry lubricant is probably a good idea, but I don't know what. All the linkage should just be greased.
ODG is
Looking good in general!
I didn't put those screws through the fenders! I cringed every time I looked at those things...
I'm not 100% happy with the ODG but I'm fairly happy with it and I think it will work well for my purposes. To fix the "screws through the fenders" I welded on a 2 inch by 1 inch piece of sheet bent into a 'L' shape onto the back of the fender which will then be screwed into the body. I had originally planned to tap a hole into the sliders but time is running short.
Stay tuned for pics.
Southeast Overland
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- #295
Pic 1) Both fenders
Pic 2) Close up of passenger's fender. This one has a better paint job then the driver's - it was after my learning curve.
Pic 3) Door partially disassembled.
Pic 2) Close up of passenger's fender. This one has a better paint job then the driver's - it was after my learning curve.
Pic 3) Door partially disassembled.
Southeast Overland
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- #296
Pic 4) Rust outside driver's door - might have to cut out metal but will try some POR Patch.
Pic 5) Rust on underside of driver's door. This should be easy to treat w/ a wire wheel and POR. Getting to the interior rust will be another deal. A good slathering of POR after some cleaning might be the best I can do there.
Pic 6) Work on driver's rear quarter. This is about ready for paint. I will need to cut out just a little bit of more metal on the bottom near the bumper. Bumper needs to be straightened also.
Pic 5) Rust on underside of driver's door. This should be easy to treat w/ a wire wheel and POR. Getting to the interior rust will be another deal. A good slathering of POR after some cleaning might be the best I can do there.
Pic 6) Work on driver's rear quarter. This is about ready for paint. I will need to cut out just a little bit of more metal on the bottom near the bumper. Bumper needs to be straightened also.
Southeast Overland
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- #297
One more pic.
Pic 7) Driver's wheel well. Before I say much I will say that the passenger side is MUCH better and probably won't require any metal replacement. The driver's side will require some metal replacement though on both the rear quarter and the wheel well. Right now I'm just trying to get a good grasp on how much I'll have to cut out. I don't plan on recreating a lip which will make things easier on me. Again, lots of POR will be in order.
Pic 7) Driver's wheel well. Before I say much I will say that the passenger side is MUCH better and probably won't require any metal replacement. The driver's side will require some metal replacement though on both the rear quarter and the wheel well. Right now I'm just trying to get a good grasp on how much I'll have to cut out. I don't plan on recreating a lip which will make things easier on me. Again, lots of POR will be in order.
yooper
SILVER Star
I always liked the factory green.
Southeast Overland
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- #299
STILL have a problem with something draining my battery intermittently. I went out about an hour ago to crank up the Pig and pull it into the garage (to give the neighbors a break - two houses are up for sale next door) and I got nuttin'. My negative battery cable was loose so I had to use a pair of pliers to 'pinch' down the terminal clamp and then it fit tight...tried to crank and nuttin'. The battery was DEAD. I checked and nothing was left on - head lights, fog lights, CB, or the overhead light.
When I hooked up jumper cables I could get the engine to try but not crank. I had to charge the battery for a little less than an hour before a jump off a running vehicle would work. I hate electrical problems....
And Yoop - I always like the stock green. The first Pig I saw (a friend owned it) that made me always want a Cruiser was green.
When I hooked up jumper cables I could get the engine to try but not crank. I had to charge the battery for a little less than an hour before a jump off a running vehicle would work. I hate electrical problems....
And Yoop - I always like the stock green. The first Pig I saw (a friend owned it) that made me always want a Cruiser was green.
Southeast Overland
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- #300
No pics but got a little done this afternoon. I removed the driver's door. I think I can handle the rust on the door. There was some rust on the A-pillar that has me worried. I'll cover it with POR on the outside but there isn't much I can do about the inside. The door is stripped, sanded, degreased and drying right now. I'll hopefully have time to etch it in the morning and apply some POR to selected areas. I won't have time to fully paint it until next week. I'll use POR Patch for the first time on this door to fill some rust holes and some holes a PO drilled for larger van-style mirrors.
