Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy (5 Viewers)

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I’ve seen people with turbo 3Bs that keep going for a while, atleast that’s what they claim. My previous one went for 20,000 miles and y’all saw how it ended. This one may have been right on the edge and gave up when I turboed it, pushing half the amount of boost and running much better than my old engine ever did. It felt super healthy, just taken aback. I would’ve never been able to drive it at app state naturally aspirated as my daily driver, just time for a better engine regardless in this thing.

I don’t like the idea of an LS and I despise the American 7/16 or 72/188493 fractions on the wrenches, not a math guy and certainly not a fraction guy. Something I could definitely overcome but if I’m going through that much work with adapter plates and engine mounts etc etc I’d rather put some mechanical diesel back in it. Such as the 3.9 Isuzu 4BD1T or something along those lines, rip it out of an old box truck or utility truck, replace bottom end bearings to eliminate my streak of trouble with the bottom end, new rings, maybe pistons if they look bad head gasket and then I’m good to go relatively. Or if it was a good runner, take it out and put it in. Obviously it would be a ton of work which is why a 13, 14, or 15BT would be super helpful, much less complicated, only issue is finding one here in the states.

2UZ would be cool, just a lot of work aswell and I hate electronics, same goes for the LS. I just despise electronics or trying to track down and figure out what wire is what. Which is yet again why a mechanical diesel like a later B series or the 3.9 Isuzu would be ideal… time will tell

The LS has all metric hardware.
 
The LS has all metric hardware.
Had no idea, ok… a lot more appealing, does this go for all LS motors? I seafoamed one of my dads employees suburban and it had standard bolts/nuts on the intake. Just figured it would be the rest of the engine aswell
 
Don't be hanging hate on the 3B with a Turbo I have run them that way since the early 90's and never killed one. I still have one and drive it most days in CA heat without issue. Buying used engines is always a potential issue, what did you do to it once you had it before you put it in ? What comp numbers ? what timing ? what fuel ? Valves adjusted ?

I find 3B's are often treating like Air-cooled VW Engines, just cause they are simple people treat them with our proper understanding and then get upset when they don't perform as they think they should when it reality they know very little about what they are doing.
 
Don't be hanging hate on the 3B with a Turbo I have run them that way since the early 90's and never killed one. I still have one and drive it most days in CA heat without issue. Buying used engines is always a potential issue, what did you do to it once you had it before you put it in ? What comp numbers ? what timing ? what fuel ? Valves adjusted ?

I find 3B's are often treating like Air-cooled VW Engines, just cause they are simple people treat them with our proper understanding and then get upset when they don't perform as they think they should when it reality they know very little about what they are doing.
Compression was all 280-300 (cold) when I checked it out in a running vehicle a month ago. Timing was retarded slightly as per @gerg recommendations. Diesel fuel, had run about 3/4 a tank through when this happened, and I had just adjusted the valves when cold, then when hot. All in spec.

Not hating on a turbo 3B, just hating on a 3B in a troopcarrier, especially now residing in the USA and not some 3rd world country where u can’t ever go over 3rd gear. Just not a good match.
 
Had no idea, ok… a lot more appealing, does this go for all LS motors? I seafoamed one of my dads employees suburban and it had standard bolts/nuts on the intake. Just figured it would be the rest of the engine aswell

GM started to transition to metric in the late 70s. A few models here and there have SAE hardware but many use metric to include Gen 3 SBCs (1997 LS1, the first LS) and newer.
 
Hell, that's bad. Such bad luck.
I'm feeling with you.
The Troopy is a long-term project now, I think.
Don't have this bad luck to completely spoil your mood and summer.
I'd say: Focus on how to make the best out of your trip and find something to enjoy.
Think different. The Troopy is not the only means of cool traveling ...
Time to take some distance now and then make a plan on the Troopy. It will turn out even better eventually.
Chin up! Ralf
 
I don't really know much about the engine swap party, but would a 1HZ or even a 1HD-T be out of the question? It's the only one I'm not seeing suggested, and seems like a natural (small) step up?

Maybe it has to do with the BJ75 body dimensions not being big enough for a 1HZ and appropriate transmission?
 
I don't really know much about the engine swap party, but would a 1HZ or even a 1HD-T be out of the question? It's the only one I'm not seeing suggested, and seems like a natural (small) step up?

Maybe it has to do with the BJ75 body dimensions not being big enough for a 1HZ and appropriate transmission?
It’s doable, people were just thinking about my budget constraints. I believe, I will have what I’m guessing is $150 to my name if I’m still able to go on this trip once it’s all done. 1HDT let’s say $7000. 150/7000, 2% of the way to being able to buy a engine, just the engine alone, then I gotta swap input shafts, clutch, pressure plate, motor mounts, and so many little things that will likely add 2 grand on top of that. Will be 10 grand into a 1HDT. as for a 1HZ I wouldn’t mind it at all, but would also be very pricey compared to other options. At that point I could probably get a contact over in Japan to ship a 14B or 14BT over seas to me for the same price or a bit cheaper than all the 1HZ swap with all the other little stuff would be, and a 14B would be plug and play, relatively. Nearly the same performance without a turbo and would kill the 1HZ with a turbo, especially since they are direct injection.
 
It’s doable, people were just thinking about my budget constraints. I believe, I will have what I’m guessing is $150 to my name if I’m still able to go on this trip once it’s all done. 1HDT let’s say $7000. 150/7000, 2% of the way to being able to buy a engine, just the engine alone, then I gotta swap input shafts, clutch, pressure plate, motor mounts, and so many little things that will likely add 2 grand on top of that. Will be 10 grand into a 1HDT. as for a 1HZ I wouldn’t mind it at all, but would also be very pricey compared to other options. At that point I could probably get a contact over in Japan to ship a 14B or 14BT over seas to me for the same price or a bit cheaper than all the 1HZ swap with all the other little stuff would be, and a 14B would be plug and play, relatively. Nearly the same performance without a turbo and would kill the 1HZ with a turbo, especially since they are direct injection.
Sounds good, makes sense! Since the troopy is now "shelved" more seriously, I guess there is the silver lining now that you will be able to be open to more options to rebuild it with...
 
Hell, that's bad. Such bad luck.
I'm feeling with you.
The Troopy is a long-term project now, I think.
Don't have this bad luck to completely spoil your mood and summer.
I'd say: Focus on how to make the best out of your trip and find something to enjoy.
Think different. The Troopy is not the only means of cool traveling ...
Time to take some distance now and then make a plan on the Troopy. It will turn out even better eventually.
Chin up! Ralf
Thank you for the kind words. The troopy will definitely be put in time out for a year or so so it can think about what it’s done to me and my bank account… and so I can think about what to do with it and my bank account lol. Might spend the next 2 days just grinding away on my buddies sequoia to get it somewhat road-trip reliable, starting tonight, work all through tomorrow, and the next day. See what we can pull off. The revival of the troopy will be an awesome adventure to see, just a shame that these will be the last couple active days in this thread for the next year or so 😕
 
I’ve seen people with turbo 3Bs that keep going for a while, atleast that’s what they claim. My previous one went for 20,000 miles and y’all saw how it ended. This one may have been right on the edge and gave up when I turboed it, pushing half the amount of boost and running much better than my old engine ever did. It felt super healthy, just taken aback. I would’ve never been able to drive it at app state naturally aspirated as my daily driver, just time for a better engine regardless in this thing.

I don’t like the idea of an LS and I despise the American 7/16 or 72/188493 fractions on the wrenches, not a math guy and certainly not a fraction guy. Something I could definitely overcome but if I’m going through that much work with adapter plates and engine mounts etc etc I’d rather put some mechanical diesel back in it. Such as the 3.9 Isuzu 4BD1T or something along those lines, rip it out of an old box truck or utility truck, replace bottom end bearings to eliminate my streak of trouble with the bottom end, new rings, maybe pistons if they look bad head gasket and then I’m good to go relatively. Or if it was a good runner, take it out and put it in. Obviously it would be a ton of work which is why a 13, 14, or 15BT would be super helpful, much less complicated, only issue is finding one here in the states.

2UZ would be cool, just a lot of work aswell and I hate electronics, same goes for the LS. I just despise electronics or trying to track down and figure out what wire is what. Which is yet again why a mechanical diesel like a later B series or the 3.9 Isuzu would be ideal… time will tell
LS has metric hardware no need for SAE tools. Recently did a 5.3 in my FJ40. Is a no brainer imo as far as parts availability, power, and reliability go. Just came back from a 600 mile trip to AR and did 85 on the highway all the way home. Could move a loaded troopy at whatever speed your heart desires. Certainly not a “cool” swap but I wasn’t after looking cool. I’m all for a toyota mechanical diesel if it’s a 1HDT but at $7k starting for the motor alone, it doesn’t make much sense imo. There’s much better things to spend your money on. Not to mention the issue of parts availability. Tough to follow along and see this play out again with a different engine. I hope you find a solution that suits you best and is hopefully easy on the wallet. As a fellow college kid who loves his cruiser I feel your pain.
 
Isn’t this the 4th engine this truck has had since it came to America? Something must be wrong with it, as it seems to kill engines somehow.

Having driven several 3B troopies in the Colorado mountains, I can honestly say they aren’t actually that bad even naturally aspirated. So how hard are you hammering on this truck if you think it can’t be dd’d in college without a turbo? Are you pretty heavy on the throttle? Not judging if you are, just curious. How far down the exhaust is your egt gauge? Maybe too low & not catching high temps properly?
 
I’ve seen people with turbo 3Bs that keep going for a while, atleast that’s what they claim. My previous one went for 20,000 miles and y’all saw how it ended. This one may have been right on the edge and gave up when I turboed it, pushing half the amount of boost and running much better than my old engine ever did. It felt super healthy, just taken aback. I would’ve never been able to drive it at app state naturally aspirated as my daily driver, just time for a better engine regardless in this thing.

I don’t like the idea of an LS and I despise the American 7/16 or 72/188493 fractions on the wrenches, not a math guy and certainly not a fraction guy. Something I could definitely overcome but if I’m going through that much work with adapter plates and engine mounts etc etc I’d rather put some mechanical diesel back in it. Such as the 3.9 Isuzu 4BD1T or something along those lines, rip it out of an old box truck or utility truck, replace bottom end bearings to eliminate my streak of trouble with the bottom end, new rings, maybe pistons if they look bad head gasket and then I’m good to go relatively. Or if it was a good runner, take it out and put it in. Obviously it would be a ton of work which is why a 13, 14, or 15BT would be super helpful, much less complicated, only issue is finding one here in the states.

2UZ would be cool, just a lot of work aswell and I hate electronics, same goes for the LS. I just despise electronics or trying to track down and figure out what wire is what. Which is yet again why a mechanical diesel like a later B series or the 3.9 Isuzu would be ideal… time will tell


Yeah it's a bummer. Lots of people have turbo'd 3B's with success, but there is a reason Toyota made the 13BT/12HT/1HDxxx direct injection and setup for turbo.

The good thing about wrenches is that you just get one that fits lol, don't memorize the size. :p



For old school diesel swap for one of the cheapest prices, I would do 4BD1T all day long. I cruised around with a 60 series @Laughingjackal that had a 4BD1T on 37's and he was flying along just fine. He too bought it as a project and is finishing some issues, but that thing goes great. Tons of parts, US parts availability. You can pick these up fairly cheap.

Buildwise, a 4BD1T and 13BT are very similar. The 4BT isn't far off but I would go 4BD all day over the loud/rattly 4BT.


If you still can make it up here, I'll see if you can meet/check out that 4BD1T 60 series.
 
Not hating on a turbo 3B, just hating on a 3B in a troopcarrier, especially now residing in the USA and not some 3rd world country where u can’t ever go over 3rd gear. Just not a good match.
Note that the 3B in the LWB BJ45 and BJ75 is a very European spec (probably for tax reasons on big engines in some European countries), rest of the world mostly had the 2H with the HJ47 and HJ75 for LWB.
(Everyone had the 3B in SWB and MWB)


I'll give 1 example to give some hope in the capability of the 3B with a turbo to survive.
1657657903095.png

This BJ45 with a popup roof and outfitted for travel is not on the light side and has 460kkm on the clock. The owner travelled dozen of times to Africa, Eastern Europe, Siberia, Mongolia... All these destinations start by a lot of freeway to go there.
Seen it in person multiple times, still running perfectly fine.
 
Compression was all 280-300 (cold) when I checked it out in a running vehicle a month ago.
I missed this before. The compression spec for a 3B is 427psi, with a minimum of 284psi, so this motor was already tired when you got it.

3B's and turbos suck. No matter what someone from 1990 says.
Endearingly blunt, but true. This is from another thread--the "What Did You Do on Your 70"--thread, but it's worth repeating. It's especially true for a tired, wore out old 3B. The way to get more power from an old 3B (if you can even put those words together), is to get it back to original specification. Once everything's perfect, then maybe consider a very low boost turbo, but really, IMO the 3B should be "enjoyed" for what it is: A "slowly but surely" tractor-like motor. It has it's charm, but I agree with @theglobb that it's completely out of place on a 21st Century American Interstate highway.

Isn’t this the 4th engine this truck has had since it came to America?
Perhaps you embellish for effect, but for the record, this is the 2nd motor this truck has had since it came to America. The motor that was in it when I imported it was original to the car AFAIK and had 400psi compression on all 4 cylinders. It drove comparably to my (at the time) 40,000 original mile 3B powered troopy. Maybe a little slower if you want to split hairs, but still pretty good. The guy who owned it between me and @theglobb decided or was convinced that the head needed to be pulled to check for cracks or something, which, lo and behold, they found when they pulled the head. My argument at the time was that you'd be lucky to find a 3B head that's not cracked, and many run reliably like that for years unbeknownst to their owners. If the compression is good, why open a can of worms? But open it they did, and drama ensued re: a replacement head, the relative quality of Chinese parts, correct valve sizes for different versions of 3B, and more. Glad I wasn't part of all that, but I was kept abreast of the situation by both parties (owner and mechanic). I don't know whether they ended up with a Chinese head, or how they solved the valve size dilemma. No idea if compression numbers were obtained again after the engine work or prior to sale to @theglobb.

As regards the two broken 3B's you have, give yourself a little time (as others have suggested), but if you decide you don't want either, I can't recommend blowing them up. lol... There should be enough pieces there for someone to build one reliable motor if they have the skill set and time to do it, and they're willing to invest in some machining and new parts. While the 3B is perhaps ill-suited to your needs, someone who wants to do a diesel swap into a 40 might find it appealing. It could provide a seed for your new engine fund.

In the meantime, convince somebody's parents to loan you their Suburban or Subaru or something for your road trip. A road trip in a boring car is still way better than no road trip at all. By a lot.

And if you make it to Boulder, I'll have 1HZ and 1HD-FT powered Landcruisers for you to check out. You know, for research purposes.
 
Yea I’m dumbfounded and in shock. About rock bottom for me right now, can only go up from here. Seriously it will only get better now, just gotta keep reminding myself that. Some people are saying it’s a higher power at play telling me not to go to Montana, if that’s the case it’s a pretty cruel higher power, could’ve just made my head gasket blow or something not as major as the bottom end… 2 times in a row, within a month. It’s not like this is some drag car or something, I just think I’m extremely unlucky.
You are absolutely right. It will only go up from here..
Idk much about higher power lol but I know that Montana is not going anywhere soon. :)

Take your time and study what you have at hand. Ifiwy I would first invest in a new, robust cooling system complete with water intercooler on whatever setup you end up with. Yeah the 3B is under powered but you'll be hard pressed to name many 30-40 year old used trucks that did cross country trips with minimal overbuild and expensive parts.

Chin up!
 
A 5-doors rav4.1 and you put a couple of buddies in the trunk on a pillow, not so different from the troopy.
Those things cost nothing nowadays, are very reliable and are actually quite capable offroad for a SUV...
 

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