The reality of the Landcruiser Head Gasket Issue

Did your Head Gasket fail.


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Owning a 97 with original HG. Would a scan gauge be a good investment to monitor temps, or if it is going to blow it's going to blow regardless?

best insurance is to go through your cooling system: radiator, hoses, fan clutch, water pump, flush system via block port. Radiators plug up and corrode over time. If yours is original just replace it. Same with fan clutch.
 
Owning a 97 with original HG. Would a scan gauge be a good investment to monitor temps, or if it is going to blow it's going to blow regardless?

Ultragauge II is cheaper and gives the same info
 
best insurance is to go through your cooling system: radiator, hoses, fan clutch, water pump, flush system via block port. Radiators plug up and corrode over time. If yours is original just replace it. Same with fan clutch.

Do aluminum radiators really plug up and corrode? I'm not so sure. On the other hand, plastic end tanks absolutely degrade.

95-97 fan clutches have a bad reputation. Especially if you are saddled with the Eaton clutch. It does appear it should be replaced with Aisin.

Agreed about the hoses. Especially the small ones.

Ultragauge II is cheaper and gives the same info

Indeed. And if someone is local to me in utah, i have a used ultragauge w/o mounting stuff that I'd let go for cheap.
 
I bought my bone stock '97 with 200k on the original HG, no issues. Now I'm going to bolt up huge tires and throw so much steel at it, it'll outweigh an F350 Super Duty. When my HG blows open 10K miles later, I'll be sure to say it's a faulty design and chalk it up to an inevitability.
 
I have a second HG job slated to start in a few weeks and another guy that has two trucks with blown HG. Of course I live in an environment that can require an engine to start in sub zero temps during the cold months. That is a lot of movement at the HG joint.

As always areas like AZ, NM, CA ... are easy on vehicles and likely play a role in longevity.
 
'95 1FZ here, I had mine go around 290K about 18 months ago, catastrophically. I was making a grocery run and it suddenly started running like total dog sh** as I turned into the parking lot. By the time I got to the nearest space the engine stalled out. Wouldn't start either, the starter was not able to turn the motor at all, but I could hear it struggling. I let it rest for a while as I put in a AAA call. About an hour later I was able to get the engine to start up but it was running like total crap so I shut it off. I think hot coolant may have hydrolocked cylinder 6 after the initial blowout and had time to evaporate off before my second startup attempt. My ultragauge never showed a super high temperature condition, so I'm pretty sure I didn't cook the motor.

It was a costly repair for sure, but the top end was basically rebuilt and it runs pretty well. A side benefit is my oil consumption went back to virtually zero, whereas I had to add a quart every 2-3 tanks before. Not sure if it was oil loss through the HG or maybe valve stem seals that were replaced in the rebuild.
 
'93 original HG and running strong at 260K

'94 previous owner replaced, had 206K when I got it

'97 purchased at 265 w/ blown head gasket, previous owner obviously neglected all maintenance and cooling system was a catastrophe.

Doing most of the work myself on '97, total rebuild was +/- $2200
 
Well my theory is a little different ... my '97 LX450 blew a head gasket and the dramatic evidence (lots of smoke etc) became apparent sometime after I replaced a blown rad. However I am pretty certain that the occasional (unexplained) misses I experienced prior to the rad going out were early evidence of what was really going on - a leaking head gasket. Fortunately the new rad held fine .... BUT I had the classic no. 6 cylinder blown gasket. Coincidentally the adjacent head bolts to number 6 were a little tougher to remove ... BUT the only head bolt that didnt 'mic' in spec was the bolt closest to the blow through ... it was clearly stretched. I do not know if this is a result of improper installation which over torqued that specific head bolt OR if the head bolts do not have enough heat tolerance in them to survive the slightly higher heat they are subjected to in that particular location. If it was over torquing (which can significantly weaken the 'strength' of the bolt)... Toyota wont be the first manufacturer to have a 'machine' or single process on the line that was 'out of spec' ..... but based on personal experience in the automotive assembly - that sort of thing usually gets picked up by routine 'QA' inspections.... my moneys on the bolts themselves being very marginal when exposed to certain levels of heat.
 
Head gasket went out on my 94 in 2009, 3 years after I bought it (at about 160,000 miles). Replaced it myself with some help from this site and the FSM. Took me some time as I worked on it over the course of a week (after work etc...) replaced hoses and other accessible maintenance items while at it. Spent around $300 in parts. Prefer to work on it if I can. at least I know what has been done to it. Love the vehicle. Most of the repairs and replacements I have performed myself appear to be pretty common for the year. PHH, HG, front axle seals (twice), new radiator cores. Thanks to those on this site who are willing to offer help.
 
I won't lie- I caught Head Gasket Fever. But then I pulled back and looked at what the problem actually was- it was just bad compression combined with the need for a new thermostat. I plan to have to do the head gasket one day, but looking back all my concerns that it was the head gasket were completely unfounded.
 
the head gasket failure on the 1FZ-FE seems to be quite obvious a real systemic problem.....a short "google" search for this subject is quite revealing....and it points to the fact that the vast majority of the failures occurred between 150K miles and 200K miles or so....with evidences of head gasket failure as low as 70K miles...!!!!! Obviously the Gauss curve applies here as well.... (evidences of engine without the head gasket failure even at 300K miles) ... as I said this proves quite well that the Gauss curve applies here and there are compelling evidences that the head gasket failure on the 1FZ-FE it is a real problem, as real as it can be.... and the Gauss curve is centered around 175K miles.....
However, one might make a very good point that 175K miles it is already quite good for an engine, and that goes well beyond the standard auto warranty even compared with the Mitsubishi with their 10 years / 100K miles warranty.....!!!!!
 
Imo there are two kinds of Landcruisers from this series: those that have already had a new HG installed ...and those that are going to have a new HG installed....I can live with that.....its just that some of the contortions and work arounds you must employ to R&R the HG are extremely vexatious. With that knowledge - If you decide to 'outsource' the job to the 'average' dealership or mechanic ....be prepared for a VERY big bill and a VERY high likelihood of an unsatisfactory or completely botched job and other subsequent problems! It is not a job that the average shop sees everyday ... and the results will likely demonstrate that. Also you can be meticulous and measure carefully and replace parts only as necessary ... or you can replace everything .... the latter can be very pricey....or you can simply throw everything back on as is to make back the time you lost when you underestimated the job. ...
 
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Jake -- I think that most of us who eventually had to do the HG went through a period of denial and hope! My hope for you (genuinely) is that you are right and your problem isnt a HG. BUT keep a very close eye on things because if you live somewhere that requires antifreeze ... a steady diet of antifreeze from a leaking headgasket on its way out is not healthy for your engine if it gets into the cylinders
 
Was into e36 BMWs for a long time, and the BMW M52 engines are very similar to the 1fz, with an inline 6 iron block mated to a long aluminum head, and it also has HG issues around the same time as the 1fz. Many feel that the different rates of expansion and contraction between the two metals is hard on the HG, and I would agree that that may be a contributing factor. The thing that really sticks out in my mind is that both the e36 BMWs and the fzj80 have weak points in the cooling systems. For us, it's the phh, for them it is a few plastic fittings that become weak over the years and break. I think with proper preventative maintenance on the cooling system components, the HG is likely never going to be an issue, but most of the time, cooling system maintenance happens after an "event" which likely pushes that old head gasket juuuuust over the edge and it fails shortly thereafter.
 
Was into e36 BMWs for a long time, and the BMW M52 engines are very similar to the 1fz, with an inline 6 iron block mated to a long aluminum head, and it also has HG issues around the same time as the 1fz. Many feel that the different rates of expansion and contraction between the two metals is hard on the HG, and I would agree that that may be a contributing factor. The thing that really sticks out in my mind is that both the e36 BMWs and the fzj80 have weak points in the cooling systems. For us, it's the phh, for them it is a few plastic fittings that become weak over the years and break. I think with proper preventative maintenance on the cooling system components, the HG is likely never going to be an issue, but most of the time, cooling system maintenance happens after an "event" which likely pushes that old head gasket juuuuust over the edge and it fails shortly thereafter.
Interesting...I agree. But what a lot of - especially new owners don't realize or disregard as important - is the center-biased temp gauge that we can thank Mr. T for. This little gem can almost guarantee that you will be ruining your back slumped over the long engine compartment or going broke trying to get a shop to do it right for you. Best advice is either get an accurate aftermarket temp gauge or do the Raventai modification. So you have a more accurate idea of your engine temp - especially on long hill climbs in hot weather. Keep it out of the red!
 
Replaced my HG at 264k after having it inspected for a long Baja trip a few years back and discovered the #6 cylinder was leaking. I had the work done by a very reputable Toyota shop who advised using a new head. He has done a lot of HG work on LC's and seen the HG go again after a few years when using the old head. Not sure why this would happen and did not want to take any chances.

Glad I had the work done and just spent another week in Baja with 292k on the clock. Peace of mind when you are 10-12 hours south of the border is priceless.
 
starting my third HG job next week to finish out this years wrenching. I was the first on this site over a decade ago to do my own HG as a PM. To this day I still do it as a PM on my personal trucks. Back then there were plenty of posts theorizing on what, how and why. More than a decade later HGs are still failing at a good clip and a new generation has taken up the mantle with the theorizing posts.

The HG will blow if you still have an original HG or it was repaired poorly. Other wise from my experience it's a one and done scenario.
 
Previous owner replaced HG at 173k as PM and now truck has 255k and running strong. I think if I bought any truck with over 150k and it hadn't ever had the HG changed I would plan on changing it for piece of mind.
 

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