The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread

[Mike NXP]

that's strange, definitely different than my clunk because my D to R clunk is gone when in 4L (or with the center diff locked) I suspect mine is the front diff. bushing.

You know I don't do much shifting when I am operating in 4lo, either second start or held in first. I'll admit I don't pay as much attention to the clunk in these times because my focus is on the obstacle ahead, which goe

D-N-R clunk most often associated with hub flange to axle play. If new OEM front drive shaft installed with new OEM hub flange, that should be gone.
Excessive play.


New

This is the one fix I haven't tried, but have creeped on many of 2001lc's post and really want to get this done. When im in park and looking from down below, I can see the movement in my CV like in your vid, but Toyota told me its normal instead of selling me on the job which was weird.

 

[2001LC]

Another front end clunk, seems like transfer case. Is the worn out bushing of the front differential.


Clunk when letting off gas and than hitting gas without coming to a stop clunk. Is most often associated with proper shafts lubing. Not lubing regular the spiders (u-joints) can wear out and the slide yoke splines can wear.

LCA & UCA bushing also need inspecting and do the rear control arm and panhard.

 

[thebeedeegee]

You know I don't do much shifting when I am operating in 4lo, either second start or held in first. I'll admit I don't pay as much attention to the clunk in these times because my focus is on the obstacle ahead, which goe

This is the one fix I haven't tried, but have creeped on many of 2001lc's post and really want to get this done. When im in park and looking from down below, I can see the movement in my CV like in your vid, but Toyota told me its normal instead of selling me on the job which was weird.

Mine goes away when the center diff is locked as well. When I got under the car and had my wife shift the lever I saw the front diff hit the frame like 2001lc's video. I need to replace that bushing, I've just been too lazy too do it...and my time has been taken up replacing bearings and CV boots on my wife's FJ. I read where someone on here stopped that clunk by sticking a rubber gasket in the gap as a temporary fix, I may try that and see if it works.

 

[2001LC]

Mine goes away when the center diff is locked as well. When I got under the car and had my wife shift the lever I saw the front diff hit the frame like 2001lc's video. I need to replace that bushing, I've just been too lazy too do it...and my time has been taken up replacing bearings and CV boots on my wife's FJ. I read where someone on here stopped that clunk by sticking a rubber gasket in the gap as a temporary fix, I may try that and see if it works.

Note: Even with new front diff bushing, diff moves.

 

[boobird]

Another front end clunk, seems like transfer case. Is the worn out bushing of the front differential.


Clunk when letting off gas and than hitting gas without coming to a stop clunk. Is most often associated with proper shafts lubing. Not lubing regular the spiders (u-joints) can wear out and the slide yoke splines can wear.

LCA & UCA bushing also need inspecting and do the rear control arm and panhard.

@2001LC
I have the clunk when letting off gas and then accelerating.

What is the proper fix for this? I just lubed all the spiders and slide yokes and the clunk can still be felt.

 

[2001LC]

Most often it the yokes need lubing. If grease passed seal(s) to easily. That may be sign of worn splines! @abuck99 just had good results, cleaning old grease out of yokes. Sometime it's the stabilizer rear links, sometimes the control arm bushing, sometimes the diff bushing.

 

[l3n0x]

@2001LC
I have the clunk when letting off gas and then accelerating.

What is the proper fix for this? I just lubed all the spiders and slide yokes and the clunk can still be felt.

My guess is the CV's. They wear out both diff and wheel side. Check for up down movement of the CV's where it connects to the diff.

My hotfix for it (coasting + reapplying throttle) is to let the tranny catch up (gently put your foot on the gas) before hitting the throttle hard(ish), then it doesn't clunk. Also don't use the resume function of the cruise control when coasting.

 

[TheForger]

@2001LC
I have the clunk when letting off gas and then accelerating.

What is the proper fix for this? I just lubed all the spiders and slide yokes and the clunk can still be felt.

I just did a front bearing replacement and also installed new hub flanges in the process. I had the exact same symptoms of clunking when letting off the gas and reapplying, it was driving me crazy because it doesn't sound good at all and was almost embarrassing when I had passengers who would point it out. The new flanges entirely eliminated any clunking when letting off or applying the gas. Not saying that is your one solution, but it was mine.

Wheel Bearing Service w/Pics

 

[l3n0x]

I just did a front bearing replacement and also installed new hub flanges in the process. I had the exact same symptoms of clunking when letting off the gas and reapplying, it was driving me crazy because it doesn't sound good at all and was almost embarrassing when I had passengers who would point it out. The new flanges entirely eliminated any clunking when letting off or applying the gas. Not saying that is your one solution, but it was mine.

Wheel Bearing Service w/Pics

If the splines on the CV's are worn, it will wear out the new flanges in no time unfortunatelly and the clunking will be back soon.

 

[abuck99]

@2001LC
I have the clunk when letting off gas and then accelerating.

What is the proper fix for this? I just lubed all the spiders and slide yokes and the clunk can still be felt.

Since you recently lubed the DS, did you also remove the zerk's to allow any extra grease to come out, relieve pressure and trapped air? Too much grease will cause brake bump; that is come to a stop, let off brake and you feel a small thud, or bump.

The on-gas/off-gas driveline "lash"and related engagement clunk you are noticing (while driving) would more likely point to U-joints. Maybe you could clarify if what you are experiencing is at Hwy speed, 55, 45 mph or 5mph. How many miles? You can check the drive shaft & joints for wear: holding and pushing DS up & down looking for any remarkable play.

If you notice clunk shifting from P-N-D, R-N-D that's worn hub flanges/CV Axle splines, potentially worn rear control arm bushes, front diff bushing.

 

[2001LC]

Here some easy test for front drive shafts (AKA CV) clung.
This is most often associated with D-N-R clunk while foot on brake.




Here is what you want to see (NEW)
Front drive shaft to Hub Flange play, New OEM

 

[kwon-offroad]

What does it mean when the clunk is not always there at the hub?
Working under my car, I could get a little bit of movement as your second video shows. Then when I parked it in another location and went back to feel the play again (and take a video) there was no play whatsoever. Moved the car out of garage and back, no play again. Is the diff side holding things firm now, and it didn't before? This would elude to no play between the joints whatsoever and it all residing in the spindle/flange?

 

[2001LC]

What does it mean when the clunk is not always there at the hub?
Working under my car, I could get a little bit of movement as your second video shows. Then when I parked it in another location and went back to feel the play again (and take a video) there was no play whatsoever. Moved the car out of garage and back, no play again. Is the diff side holding things firm now, and it didn't before? This would elude to no play between the joints whatsoever and it all residing in the spindle/flange?

The above test gives clues to teeth/splines of axle and hub flange. New, the wheel hub and axle have no rotational play.
Move vehicle to another position. You may have load/pressure on FDS. The test shifting while engine running, may be better for you.

New

To inspect the CV of front drive shaft (FDS). Have vehicle level, to get front drive shaft (FDS) in as neutral position as you can. Place bottle jack under LCA helps. Than you can rock/rotor tire/wheel. This is so you do not have load on the FDS. Grab CENTER AXLE and inner CV tulip. Twist in opposite directions. Feel for remarkable play. Repeat without CV tulip. Typically, if remarkable play, CV will click while driving and in mild turns.

 

[boobird]

Since you recently lubed the DS, did you also remove the zerk's to allow any extra grease to come out, relieve pressure and trapped air? Too much grease will cause brake bump; that is come to a stop, let off brake and you feel a small thud, or bump.

The on-gas/off-gas driveline "lash"and related engagement clunk you are noticing (while driving) would more likely point to U-joints. Maybe you could clarify if what you are experiencing is at Hwy speed, 55, 45 mph or 5mph. How many miles? You can check the drive shaft & joints for wear: holding and pushing DS up & down looking for any remarkable play.

If you notice clunk shifting from P-N-D, R-N-D that's worn hub flanges/CV Axle splines, potentially worn rear control arm bushes, front diff bushing.

130k miles

I feel the clunk at 30 and 50mph, seemingly when pressing gas after coasting at low rpms. It was actually difficult to reproduce, as if I had to time the acceleration just right to get it to clunk.

I do hear a clunk at PND as well.

When greasing I felt some rotational play in the DS but no up and down play. I did see grease exit from the seal but didn’t remove the zerk.

 

[Patassa]

I've replaced every bushing I could think of, wheel bearings, hub flanges, all main suspension components, rear drive shaft, etc.

Has anyone replaced the FRONT drive shaft and found any improvement? The front drive shaft has just as many miles on it as the first, seems like I might as well replace that too. (300k miles)

 

[Beau]

The CV's can wear alongside the drive flange they go into. Hence you should really change both CV's and drive flanges at the same time. Otherwise worn CV's will wear out new Drive flanges, and vise versa.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I've replaced every bushing I could think of, wheel bearings, hub flanges, all main suspension components, rear drive shaft, etc.

Has anyone replaced the FRONT drive shaft and found any improvement? The front drive shaft has just as many miles on it as the first, seems like I might as well replace that too. (300k miles)

The front shaft would only improve a "clunk" if the slip yolk is bound up/dry, or the U-Joints are bad.

The movement in the front shaft (rotational movement 1/4-1/2") is the lash in the diff and T-Case which is normal. That being said, it does cause bump/clunk in many older vehicles when they load.

 

[Patassa]

The CV's can wear alongside the drive flange they go into. Hence you should really change both CV's and drive flanges at the same time. Otherwise worn CV's will wear out new Drive flanges, and vise versa.

Oooph, more parts to throw at this.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Oooph, more parts to throw at this.

You can, (using the marking method 2001LC posted above) see if you have problematic movement at your hub flanges before replacing anything.

 

[Patassa]

You can, (using the marking method 2001LC posted above) see if you have problematic movement at your hub flanges before replacing anything.

I have 305k, and plan to drive till at least 400k (next timing belt change), and then evaluate driving another 100k. Should I just go ahead and replace them in your opinion?