The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread

[AlpineAccess]

I have 305k, and plan to drive till at least 400k (next timing belt change), and then evaluate driving another 100k. Should I just go ahead and replace them in your opinion?

Hub flanges are $50 for a pair, gaskets are $5, and a new set of CV C-clips is $15 - takes 20 minutes to replace all of that. OEM CV's are the only way to go, and are $800+ for a pair.

If your CV's splines look good, just put on new flanges, and get the C clip gap right. When the boots eventually dry/crack and fail, get a rebuild kit for the OEM CV's. A few hours and $100 in parts/supplies and you're back in action.

If you've had super loose c-clips and your CV splines are all torn up and the flanges are shot, then I'd replace them all at the same time. The CV spline wear nearly all comes from the sawing action of the CV laterally when the clips aren't done properly.

 

[Mike NXP]

I am also on board with the million dollar question, well more like $1500 question.

The clunk drives me crazy and has been narrowed down to the hub flange /CV wear. Is it really worth throwing another stack of cash at this problem or just be gentle on the accelerator pedal and roll a bit between shifting to make the problem go away.

I guess what I am wondering is, am I doing any damage to the front diff or anything else by clunking away until I can save up the funds to repair.

 

[silveradofab]

Does anyone else's truck not clunk when the center diff is locked? That seems to tell me it's not my hub flanges. Makes me think it's the front diff. mounts, because lubing the shafts don't seem to help.

Mine looking into this now

 

[abuck99]

I am also on board with the million dollar question, well more like $1500 question.

The clunk drives me crazy and has been narrowed down to the hub flange /CV wear. Is it really worth throwing another stack of cash at this problem or just be gentle on the accelerator pedal and roll a bit between shifting to make the problem go away.

I guess what I am wondering is, am I doing any damage to the front diff or anything else by clunking away until I can save up the funds to repair.

Flanges are a little softer and wear before axle stub splines- but severely worn flanges will have a negative impact on the life of axle splines- wearing them- widening the gap between splines which creates- more slop, clunk etc. Swapping the flange from one side to the other will buy you a little time; a few thousand miles- but not much. Flanges are reasonably cheap might be worth replacing them.

 

[Mike NXP]

Flanges are a little softer and wear before axle stub splines- but severely worn flanges will have a negative impact on the life of axle splines- wearing them- widening the gap between splines which creates- more slop, clunk etc. Swapping the flange from one side to the other will buy you a little time; a few thousand miles- but not much. Flanges are reasonably cheap might be worth replacing them.

Interesting, I didn't realize just replacing the flange was an option. I am semi-intimidated by the front end of the cruiser, limited experience in there, but will look into this more, thanks.

 

[l3n0x]

Flanges are a little softer and wear before axle stub splines- but severely worn flanges will have a negative impact on the life of axle splines- wearing them- widening the gap between splines which creates- more slop, clunk etc. Swapping the flange from one side to the other will buy you a little time; a few thousand miles- but not much. Flanges are reasonably cheap might be worth replacing them.

Does the wheel need to come off to flip the flanges?

 

[REZARF]

Does the wheel need to come off to flip the flanges?

Yes

 

[l3n0x]

Yes

That's what's holding me back. I've bought replacement flanges and circlips a good 5k miles ago, but I don't want to jack the car & remove the wheel

 

[ROAM]

That's what's holding me back. I've bought replacement flanges and circlips a good 5k miles ago, but I don't want to jack the car & remove the wheel

Oh man. A mechanic's wet dream.

 

[Patassa]

That's what's holding me back. I've bought replacement flanges and circlips a good 5k miles ago, but I don't want to jack the car & remove the wheel

...what's your plan if you were to ever get a flat???? Removing the wheel is a pretty necessary skill, my man.

 

[Patassa]

I'm going to order new front drive shaft, new CVs, and new drive flanges. If this doesn't fix the clunk, I'm done trying. There is nothing else to replace after this other than diffs and transfer case, at that point I'll just buy a new truck. We'll see if another thousand bucks finally puts this to bed.

Edit: $1300, ordered. Now I HAVE to keep it till 500k. Wheeee, 10 more years, let's go.

 

[l3n0x]

...what's your plan if you were to ever get a flat???? Removing the wheel is a pretty necessary skill, my man.

It’s not that I can’t, it’s just that I don’t want to I’ve already spent too much time under this car in the past 1 year, and I just got tired of wrenching on it, especially if it involves taking out more than 2 tools of the toolbox.

 

[Mike NXP]

I've got a few extra bucks in the piggy bank so I am bringing the cruiser to Toyota this week to inspect CV / Hubs to help resolve my clunk issue. I don't have the know-how or skills to get this done on my own.

Honestly I am hoping they find some worn out splines so I can replace and hope it fixes my clunk. I have repaired / inspected all other possible culprits.

I will report back later this week if this solved the problem. As you follow this thread, more often than not it seems like this is the reason for the clunk. Of course some drive line grease in some scenarios has helped, noone seems to have reported this as the true fix. In fact there seems to be only a few members who report back with a 100% resolved clunk.

In my scenario I can visibly watch the CV clunking into place when switching through gears. In 4 Lo when going on and off the gas it really hits hard unless you feather the accelerator. It also slams into gear unless I roll slightly between shifts, and of course it clunks when at higher speeds, letting off the gas and then back onto the pedal.

 

[Patassa]

I've got a few extra bucks in the piggy bank so I am bringing the cruiser to Toyota this week to inspect CV / Hubs to help resolve my clunk issue. I don't have the know-how or skills to get this done on my own.

Honestly I am hoping they find some worn out splines so I can replace and hope it fixes my clunk. I have repaired / inspected all other possible culprits.

I will report back later this week if this solved the problem. As you follow this thread, more often than not it seems like this is the reason for the clunk. Of course some drive line grease in some scenarios has helped, noone seems to have reported this as the true fix. In fact there seems to be only a few members who report back with a 100% resolved clunk.

In my scenario I can visibly watch the CV clunking into place when switching through gears. In 4 Lo when going on and off the gas it really hits hard unless you feather the accelerator. It also slams into gear unless I roll slightly between shifts, and of course it clunks when at higher speeds, letting off the gas and then back onto the pedal.

Any idea how much they are going to charge you?

Honestly, it would take a hellava dealership technician to find the kind of wear that I've seen in some of these pictures. Why won't you just pop the flanges off yourself, take some high quality pictures and upload them to this thread? We'll give you our opinions for free!

 

[Mike NXP]

Any idea how much they are going to charge you?

Honestly, it would take a hellava dealership technician to find the kind of wear that I've seen in some of these pictures. Why won't you just pop the flanges off yourself, take some high quality pictures and upload them to this thread? We'll give you our opinions for free!

For sure, I may end up getting to that point but I have had some good luck with the toyota dealership here in the past, they have a tech who is experienced with the 100 series. Half hour labor to inspect, seems worth the few bucks Vs the alternative of me working in my sketchy uneven gravel driveway.

Hoping with the level of clunking that I am getting there will be some obvious wear in the splines of the hub flange. hope I don't regret bringing it to Toyota =\

 

[l3n0x]

I've got a few extra bucks in the piggy bank so I am bringing the cruiser to Toyota this week to inspect CV / Hubs to help resolve my clunk issue. I don't have the know-how or skills to get this done on my own.

Honestly I am hoping they find some worn out splines so I can replace and hope it fixes my clunk. I have repaired / inspected all other possible culprits.

I will report back later this week if this solved the problem. As you follow this thread, more often than not it seems like this is the reason for the clunk. Of course some drive line grease in some scenarios has helped, noone seems to have reported this as the true fix. In fact there seems to be only a few members who report back with a 100% resolved clunk.

In my scenario I can visibly watch the CV clunking into place when switching through gears. In 4 Lo when going on and off the gas it really hits hard unless you feather the accelerator. It also slams into gear unless I roll slightly between shifts, and of course it clunks when at higher speeds, letting off the gas and then back onto the pedal.

Following.

 

[AlpineAccess]

For sure, I may end up getting to that point but I have had some good luck with the toyota dealership here in the past, they have a tech who is experienced with the 100 series. Half hour labor to inspect, seems worth the few bucks Vs the alternative of me working in my sketchy uneven gravel driveway.

Hoping with the level of clunking that I am getting there will be some obvious wear in the splines of the hub flange. hope I don't regret bringing it to Toyota =\

Hope it goes well. If you are seeing CV movement when going in and out of gear while the hub stays fixed (easiest way is to have someone hold the brake pedal while you shift in and out of gear) then you have too much movement at the CV/Hub flange.

I wish you the best with the dealership. I have a low opinion of my local dealer options and think you're paying for an hour of labor only to hear:

A. It's a normal operating condition.
B. We need to rebuild the front end, you should trade it in.
C. We need to replace the CV's and flanges at a massive parts markup and an insane shop labor rate (which goes to overhead and not to the technician). They don't inspect/grease wheel bearings, they ALWAYS forget to grease the spindle bearing, they incorrectly pretension the hub nuts, re-use the old c-clip or don't gap and use the right size c-clip. The shafts wear prematurely and it repeats itself in another 30k, or the c-clip pops off and the CV shaft damages itself and the flange.

 

[Mike NXP]

Hope it goes well. If you are seeing CV movement when going in and out of gear while the hub stays fixed (easiest way is to have someone hold the brake pedal while you shift in and out of gear) then you have too much movement at the CV/Hub flange.

I wish you the best with the dealership. I have a low opinion of my local dealer options and think you're paying for an hour of labor only to hear:

A. It's a normal operating condition.
B. We need to rebuild the front end, you should trade it in.
C. They actually say its a problem and replace CV's and flanges at a massive parts markup. They don't inspect the wheel bearings, don't grease the spindle bearing, incorrectly pretension the wheel bearings, re-use the old c-clip and/or don't gap and use the right size c-clip and this repeats itself in another 30k. Or the c-clip pops off and the CV shaft is ruined before then.

Oh for sure, I can totally agree with the above potential outcomes from past experiences as well, and I will most likely regret the decision to let them operate on my 100.

In the past it was more like
A - that is backlash in your differentials and is 100% normal
B- We can't recreate the problem
C - it's a truck and thats normal

The clunk is just driving me nuts because everything else on the rig operates nicely. I am trying to be more involved at toyota this go around, insisting on a mechanic who has done this exact job before and being clear on my concerns.

What else should I make sure isn't being overlooked
- Proper torque
- c-clip sizing issues
- Procedure on wheel bearing service

 

[Mike NXP]

Would it really be too much to expect that the toyota tech will be able to look up torque specs and understand the concept of using the proper c-clips? I'd like to think this isn't rocket science for a mechanic, provided you get a mechanic with decent experience.

 

[kruisinkid]

just have the service writer put it in the notes BEFORE they do the work. to swap CVs and flanges you do not need to open up the hub per the FSM. pull the wheel, pull the grease cap, take off snap ring, unbolt/remove hub. unbolt speed sensor wire/bracket. undo the control arms. unbolt steering arm. the hub/rotor stays attached to the steering knuckle and comes off as a unit. if you want new or repacked bearings you would need to request it. bottom line, if you want something request. they will do the bare minimum about as fast as they can.

swapping flanges is very very easy. special tools needed are torque wrench and snap ring pliers. cruiser outfitters sells all the snap rings in a pack.

i just opened my front end up a couple nights ago for the first time since purchasing. removing the grease cap immediately set the tone....

not an OEM snap ring and not close to the right thickness. I have a click and a clunk. i will say that putting a new flange on backwards and twisting the axle CW and CCW showed play and the new flange slipped on like butter which is not ideal. it should be super tight with a new flange correct? i am to believe the axle is shot. im pretty sure they are original at 226k and perhaps the bearings are original as well. i am dreading having to pony up the 1500 or so for new axles and bearings but i want this thing solid and not shakey on the highway for some upcoming roadtrips. though unemployed at the moment, ill never have this kind of time again to do it so i might as well do it now, right?